The weld for the ebrake support broke loose.
Anybody else ever seen this? or had to weld this?
It should be an easy weld job to fix this.

I'm thinking just re-tack it from the back and re-weld
the plate back on.

I wasn't planning on grinding down the top layer
"circles" still attached to the long. I was planning on
using them for alignment, welding over them, and adding a few extra tacks
along the sides, corners, and bottom.

Can't I get away with that or do I need to actually grind
down the circles left behind from the spotseld cutter and
weld fill them in?

--- bill
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

as long as the piece sits flush and you got rid of any rust underneath, you'll be fine ...

if it doesn't sit flush, it's time for the grinder ...
Andy

I have this same repair to do on my car.
I am following along with interest.

A little update on the repair.
I removed the paint and treated the bracket with Ospho.
I decided to completely remove the stud to allow cleaning up the metal as well as
as the studd.
Not shown, but I did do some clean up of the mounting surfaces.
Click to view attachment

I welded it back in from the back first and also added a few tacks
to the piece that holds the threads for the bolt.
(My welds are kind of sloppy.)
Click to view attachment

I also welded up the front around the post. This required some grinding
clean up to ensure that the bead didn't interfere with the actual stud.
Its now ready to put back in to the car once I do some cleanup on the long to
get ready for the welding.
Click to view attachment

While I had originally planned on leaving in the drilled around sections,
I'm going to grind them out as I think it will make the actual welding
easier.
I'll also prime the part with some weld-through primer before I
do the final weld.


I'll do a final post showing the final repair.

BTW,
One thing of interest to me was that the back side of this bracket and the
long under that bracket had no paint on it. I thought these cars were dipped
for paint. How could it be dipped and yet miss these areas????

--- bill

Looks good.

Mine failed in a very nice circle around the stud. I was able to weld it in the car without removing the stamped piece. Just held the stud with the metal on it in place and tacked it in slowly.

Mine broke just like that 4-5 years ago, I fixed it somewhat just like you guys are doing, and then it broke again. The post is welded to sheet metal, not much support, one good jerk setting the brake and it comes off in your hand again.

I did come up with a permanent repair and it’s really solid now. I’ll try to describe it, no pics, days before digital cameras.

Measured the hole, a piece of ¾ round stock would just slip in. Measured the depth of the hole between the outer piece of sheet metal and inner sheet metal. Those are the only measurements you’re going to need.

I took the ¾ round stock, cut it off so that it extended ¼ inch above the outer sheet metal, then drilled a 3/8 inch hole thru the center, making a drill guide. Placed the drill guide in the hole and drilled a 3/8 hole into the inner sheet metal panel.

Then I made the special piece, using 1 inch round stock mild steel. Chucked it up in the lathe, turned it down to the od of the original brake handle pin and length. Then turned down a section ¾ od the length of the measurement between outer and inner sheet metal, left a 1/8 inch flange between brake pin and ¾ section. At the end that contact the inner sheet metal I machined another pin section, 3/8 dia by ¼ long. Fits in the 3/8 hole I drilled into the inner sheet metal panel. Put the piece in the hole, welded up. Done.

The operation of the brake handle is rock solid now, no flex at all.

Hope I described it so that you can understand it.

Good Luck, Don

Don,
Sounds like the right way to fix this issue.
I think I'll use your technique.
Marty

My post was more like big nail with a thick head and the head
was orignally tacked or brazed to the sheet metal not the actual post.
The hole in the sheet metal was actually several millimeters larger
than the diameter of the post leaving lots of room for water to sneek
in and form rust.

I'm curious, Were your welds to the back as well as the front?

So are you saying that the outer sheet metal bracket/mount flexed enough
that it caused your repair welds to crack and come loose?
Or did the sheet metal just tear somewhere else?

I can't really go your route with the fully supported pin.

I guess I could re-inforce the sheet metal with some strips of flatbar
welded to the back of the plate.
I guess I didn't think anything else would be necessary since I haven't
seen many people talk about their handbrakes coming loose.

I'd sure like to get peoples experiences before I put this back into the car.

--- bill