Purchased one of the engine mounts from Pelican but don't know how to mount the motor to it? None of the tranny mounting holes line up with the holes in the mount - what am I doing wrong? Attached is a pic of the motor and mount ...

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The adapter should have two holes in it. The case will have two studs (bottom) and two holes (top). You mount the adapter to one half of the case. So one stud through one hole in the adapter and then you will need a long bolt and nut for the other.

The idea is that you can then eventually split the case without having to remove the adapter. I "think" that it is best to mount the adapter on the side that has the distributor. Someone else can jump in if that is not right.

Richard - That worked good, thanks, excepts that one of the studs does not have long enough threads and the mount will interfere with the fly wheel - should the fly wheel be removed before mounting? How about the rear engine tin?

I can't comment on the issue with the length of the stud as I haven't used that exact adapter. I would think it should work. Could it be that it is not pulling tight up enough against the case? I think the flywheel should remain on as I think you would use a flywheel lock tool to keep the crank from turning. I think I have heard that the rear tin might interfear.

Someone else jump in and help as I am at the limit of my knowledge on this.

I was just looking again at your photos and could it be that bolts the connect the adapter to the generic engine stand mount be hitting the clutch and this might be preventing you from getting the adapter plate to pull up tight against the case and that might be why you have what appears to be short stud? If so, I guess you would then need to pull the clutch off, but leave the flywheel on.

Or, the way that you have the "fingers" (not sure what to call them) on the generic mount bolted on might be causing problems. It looks like you have the nut on the side toward the engine and those bolts look to be on the long side (hitting clutch?). You may be able to undo that and run the bolt back through in the other direction and gain some room around the clutch.

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Good catch - I did have to reverse the bolts you reference because they did interfere. The stud though is just too close to the flywheel and any nut will interfere?

The engine is sup[posed to be fastened to the tranny using 15mm wrench size 10mm nuts, and they'll clear the flywheel. The Cap'n

Cap'n - say what?

I can't seem to find a photo on the web of a type IV with flywheel and adapter/P201 mount to show you what it should look like. The closest that I can find quickly is a photo from the Bird board of a 908 with a P201 mount on it

Photo of 908 engine on P201 mount with flywheel

As Cap'n mentions, it should work with the right hardware.

Here is another photo. It is not a Type IV, but it does show how the adapter should be right around the flywheel and that you should be able to run a nut onto the stud without it hitting the flywheel...

VW engine on P201 with flywheel

I am heading off to bed. Good luck on getting it mounted up on the stand.

Are you rebuilding the whole engine, if so and it was me I would remove the flywheel before mounting to the stand. It will be alot more difficult once it is mounted, and it should solve your problems.

Cap'n - I get what you are saying, but the problem is alos that the threads do not go all thw way to the mounting adapter and any washer I had interfered with the flywheel?

So.Cal - No, I am not rebuilding, just sealing up the cooler and push rod tubes. Wanted to leave the flywheel on to allow easier engine turning?

I think I solved it by using a short pipe as a washer to clear the part of the stud w/o threads. Now all I need to do is figure out a way to balance and raise it to get it into the engine stand??

Success - and completed it all by myself! Maybe not the smartest, but it is on the stand!

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