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vesnyder
Question regarding the valve adjustment approach outlined in the classic threads. In the table below, when it states "Turn until Rocking", does that mean when the rocker is pushing down on the valve? I originally thought it meant when the rocker "rocks" on the rocker arm (by hand) which had me very confused (not hard to do?).

Clarification is appreciated!

Turn until Rocking: Adjust:
#2 Ex & #3 In #4 Ex & #1 In
#1 Ex & #2 In #3 Ex & #4 In
#4 Ex & #1 In #2 Ex & #3 In
#3 Ex & #4 In #1 Ex & #2 In


srb7f
By rocking, I believe they mean that the rocker is actively pressing down on one of the ends of the valves that is being opened. If this is true, it means that you wouldn't be able to rock it back and forth between the end of the valve and the end of the pushrod with your fingers.

Though the experts may say this procedure is a better way, I find the TDC method of adjusting intake and exhaust for the same cyllinder a much easier and foolproof method for the hobbyist like myself. The only kicker here is adding the second mark on the flywheel, which is a piece of cake if the engine is out of the car. Steve




QUOTE(vesnyder @ Apr 25 2006, 12:36 PM) *

Question regarding the valve adjustment approach outlined in the classic threads. In the table below, when it states "Turn until Rocking", does that mean when the rocker is pushing down on the valve? I originally thought it meant when the rocker "rocks" on the rocker arm (by hand) which had me very confused (not hard to do?).

Clarification is appreciated!

Turn until Rocking: Adjust:
#2 Ex & #3 In #4 Ex & #1 In
#1 Ex & #2 In #3 Ex & #4 In
#4 Ex & #1 In #2 Ex & #3 In
#3 Ex & #4 In #1 Ex & #2 In
Rand
Let the cam do the rocking... turn until you see the rocker move, which means it's pushing on a valve, which means the opposing valves in the table are at rest. In order for there to be a gap to check, the valve has to be at rest in closed position, without the rocker trying to push on it.

Turn until cam moves these rockers | Adjust these valves
#2 Ex & #3 In...................................| #4 Ex & #1 In
#1 Ex & #2 In...................................| #3 Ex & #4 In
#4 Ex & #1 In...................................| #2 Ex & #3 In
#3 Ex & #4 In...................................| #1 Ex & #2 In
SLITS
No, you don't do them twice...you may roll the engine over twice. If you just look at it from the "opposites" view....If the exhaust on one side is down (fully open)...you adjust it's cross case neighbor...as in #2 exh fully open...adjust #4 exh. #2 intake fully open (down)..adjust #4 intake.

Now, is this reasonable?
vesnyder
Thanks guys - got them done. I replaced the push rod tube seals and teh push rods did not seat propoerly inside the tube, so the rockers and spacing was goofy. Got them seated properly and all was good. Did not have the notch on the dizzy which had me confused as well?
smooth_eddy
QUOTE
Though the experts may say this procedure is a better way, I find the TDC method of adjusting intake and exhaust for the same cyllinder a much easier and foolproof method for the hobbyist like myself. The only kicker here is adding the second mark on the flywheel, which is a piece of cake if the engine is out of the car. Steve


agree.gif

I followed the pelican method and was able to add the second mark with the motor in the car. I adjust in firing order 1-4-3-2. Eddy
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