hopeing someone might shed some light on what could be causeing my bad emissions reading, CO is about 11.7 at idle and 13.88 atabout 2500rpm (supposed to be at highest 5.0 ), HC is 228, at idle and 1336 at about 2500RPM ( supposed to be 700 at max), the guy that tested it said he thinks it is running very rich, could that just be my fuel pressure reg, not adjusted correctly (i did just replace the fuel pump and reconected my fuel lines correctly, they were not even close to hooked up right when i bought it), or could it be something worse???

Verify your timing.

Mine failed miserably before I bought it and it almost killed the deal. The "mechanic" the PO took it to looked at the MPS first and started turning the screw, to no avail, but when he decide to check the timing, it was off. Readjusted and it passed with flying colors.

I did everything I could to get my '76 2.0 ready for emissions : timing, plugs, rotor, wires, valve adjustment, filters, etc. It failed. So I took some "extra measures" : used very heavy oil (50, IIRC), set the valves very loose, made sure the engine was really warm. Still failed. Had the guy at the station work on it, it passed. Basically I think they just keep tweaking the rich/lean knob on the EFI box until the numbers look good.

In Colorado, you can get an exemption from passing emissions if you spend enough money on corrective measures. Utah may have something similar, so check around. If so, my advice would be to do the whole shebang : plugs, filters, wires, rotor, bottle of FI cleaner, and save all the receipts. Then have the emissions test done at a independent garage that seems like they know what a 914 is. Then for a "reasonable fee", you'll either pass or get an exemption.

Good luck.

Is this on the '74? Bummer you aren't smog exempt there.

Utah bites... same as CO though. If you spend $100 clams you can get a wavier. You could try Ed's shop or take it to Les Long (Air Power Racing). Les got my -6 to pass.

There are others here that can help with the measurements for your -4 but I know UT is very strict and it's almost impossible to get anything of that era to pass.

I suspect it is a timing issue also, had Superbeetle that you would have to sort of advance the timing a bit to get it to pass, then back off a little to drive it. Does your car have a catalytic convertor?

not on a 74...

I'm surprised the car even runs at 13%. Likely a bad MPS or a bad MPS hose. Tuneup, valve adjustment, test the hose, then test the MPS. In my professional opinion, and my personal one, too, you should NEVER mess with the MPS unless you own a flow bench MPS simulator and are able to calibrate it properly. Thjere are, however, a couple of listers who are rumored to be very good at repairing and setting them. Goos luck! The Cap'n

....can't you call "cousin Guido" and his multiple wives???? It is Utah you know...bet they could help ya out



Lisa

i didn't touch the mps, but i did replace all of the vaccum lines about a month ago. and they were all screwy, so i put them back according to the diagram at pelican, i just did a valve adjustment and for some reason all of the adjustment screws were all the way up against the vavles, no space at all. so i turned them out to .006 and .008 and now the car runs a little beter but runs louder. i kinda wonder if the previous owner hasn't replaced the cam with a racing one or something. i have an appointment with european only today, i don't like haveing to bring my car into the shop, but i don't have a fuel pressure gauge or a timeing light,

is there a way to check the MPS... and where exactly is it located??

uhoh... hyd. lifters?

You may have hydraulic lifters! In fact I think it's pretty likely. If not, you may have some valve damage from the lash being too tight.

so what should i do about that?? or how can i tell?? should i tighten the scews back down???? or would it hurt anything haveing them out?? the engine is definatly running louder... so with hydrolic cams do you not to to do valve adjustments??