ok I finally got some time to start wraping up some of the last things for the teener and I got round to putting the rear drop links back on the shock bolt ( I had replaced the rear shocks and springs ) and I can't get the f-ing things to go back on !!

I tried to grease them a little no luck, I tried to use a quick clamp to press it on .. no luck, I tried to beat it on with a rubber mallet .. no luck

any one got some helpful hints

Only did the job once (so far) but I used a big C-clamp or a large pair of water pump pliers. The big issue is getting things set up so that you can press squarely on the bushing and on the back of the ball.
HTH
Harvey

I agree with Harvey, a big C-clamp is best....

Here's a link to my website that shows how I installed them. Hope this helps...

-- Rob

massive c-clamp is the way to go, coupled with wood blocks or shims as needed. not a fun job but eventually they go in. not sure why, but i've always had better luck wedging the bushings in at an angle to the ball, rather than straight-on.

~a

But I'll add, much grunting, cussing, watch yer fingers..........

Bigg ass pair of channel locks.............no problem

I always found it easiest to press the drop link onto the ball on the end of the pin with a vice before inserting the pin back through the trailing arm and shock. You then only have to push in the drop link to sway bar joints while both are in the car, which is fairly easy with channel locks or a C-clamp because you have better control of the force since both sides are fairly easily accessible.

Yep, the Channel locks.


KT

werd....

add swearing and some grease

well at least it's not just me being gimpy about this .. and lots of folks bitch about getting them back on!

If for some reason you can't the bushing in the drop link call Brad Mayeur. He has a press with modified shock bolt that does the job very nicely. Once that is done then use a big C clamp to get them on the shock bolt / sway bar.

You may have too much grease in there...

It won't compress and they won't go on. Make sure your cup not runeth over.

I've used both the huge channel lock method, and one I just happened to try out of sheer frustration. While sitting facing the rear wheel hub (in line with the swaybar) I took an 18" length of 2"x4" placed against the inside of the drop link (the side opposite the open part of the bushing), then with a hand on each end, pulled and levered the droplink onto the shock bolt by pulling both ends of the 2"x4" towards myself. Pops on real easily.

Put the bushings in the link first, press in with a vice is how I started them, then popped them with a mallet.

Use a gear puller(3$ at Harbor Freight) to press them on, don't be using channel locks or you will tear your stuff up. A C-clamp would be tough to get on there, I would imagine. I used a Sacagewea dollar piece to protect the bushing from the threaded part of the gear puller for the shock end, and to hook the arms on for the sway bar end. There is even a little dimple in the end of the sway bar, and two little tabs on the shock one to hook the arms of the gear puller onto, this will damage the dollar piece, which I think is illegal, defacing money and all

Huge Channel Locks, maybe you should have made a pole out of it

It also used these to remove 944 gas caps that get stuck. Works really well for that, don't let the 944 guys know.

I made a tool from a vice grip C-clamp. One side has a flat for the back of the bushing and the other side is forked to fit over the bolt behind the ball.