Can't call, but if you can help figure this out, great.
Geoff

From the other side

This worked for me on my rebuild.
"Take a steel bar that just fits between the shift rod notches, and hold ti tight to the r/1 and 2/3 shift rods. Then push the 4/5 rod down against it, preloading the fork so that this is the maximum that the rod can swing to the outside. Then just tighten it up. You will only measure about 1 or maybe 1.5 mm between the 2/3 and the 4/5 rods." (Wes Hildreth quote)

Tommy nailed it.. however I do like to use the factory numbers (The Haynes manual has the measurements).


B

Thanks guys

Geoff, can you photoshop up some reference points on the pic for what the text answer described?

thx,
jbb

The pics he took doesnt actually show what we need to show you. We need a better pic from the side showing the actual distance between the shift rods.


B

A word of advice...get out the shift console and check to see how it passes through the rods.

I eyeballed the alignment on the first tranny I built...and then the first time I stomped on the car, I got it stuck in fourth gear. That was a fun trip home, LOL.

i think what you discribed is exactly what happened to geoff. seattle is not the town you want 4th gear only in.

kevin

Oh, I had it going again just that shifting was stiff, even in neutral.

What worked for me was a Craftsman drift tool. The square end fit perfectly. Then adjust each of the collars to fit exactly between the gears in this position. Also, adjust the "C" to clear the shift sleeve in the middle position (the rocking direction of adjustment versus the sliding adjustment used for gear selection). Mine works beautifully with this setup...

Chris

I've read as much as i can today and still haven't found a pic showing the adjustment. any clues? tranny rebuild is next on my list.

also, i recall threads mentioning pinion depth and am clueless here as well.

thanks guys,
jbb

OK, I did the adjustment yesterday. I just didn't have the correct spacing between the 3 shift rods (where the red arrows point). I used feeler gauges to adjust the space inbetween them, about .012 inches.
You first set up the 1st/Rev rod correctly so the funny gear that hangs off the rear cover doesn't hit the main 1st drive gear (about .010).
Then you set up the middle shift rod, first adjusting the shift fork and slider so its in the middle of 2nd/3rd. This means that it is at rest as it spins and not resting on a syncho. Then adjust the rod spacing and alignment in relation to the 1st/rev rod. The notch must line up and then spacing is .012.
Then you do the same thing with the 4th/5th gear rod, first adjusting the shifting fork and slider. Then adjusting the shifting rod in relation to 1st/rev and 2nd/3rd, aligning the notch in the rod. Then you set the rod spacing off the 2nd/3rd rod (.012) with the feeler gauge.

In rebuilding my tranny, I changed many parts but I didn't change anything with the diff/pinon. Setting the diff backlash/pinon depth needs a shop I hear. Is yours bad? Probably not, use should be able to install new syncho's, the two bearing in the intermediate plate, and atleast new dog teeth in 1st, 2nd gears. Sliders are what you will have to inspect to see if you need them. (probably atleast a 1st gear slider)

Geoff

Geoff,

your more verbose version of the alignment technique makes it clear to me what should be done.

i'm sure you are right about the r&r for my trans. i was just asking about pinion depth because i had no clue about it.

thanks,
jbb

So, Geoff, is it all working how it should now?

Yep, I was blasting around Seattle today scaring all the little old Grandma and little kids.

Geoff

Pinion depth shouldn't be a worry if you are only changing dogteeth and synchros. You probably should reset it if you are changing the bearings in the intermediate plate. Otherwise, you need to keep the old gaskets behind the intermediate plate and measure them to ensure that the new gasket or gaskets achieve the same thickness.

Resetting the pinion depth requires a special tool which many repair shops don't even own.

As i haven't done much tranny work why does setting pinion depth require anything more than a dial indicator and some special braketry? Anyone have a picture of this tool?