Does anyone know of a link and or could explain how to "properly" wet sand clearcoat? I'm wanting to do my own, to save some cash.

Thanks!

go to the forum at www.autobodystore.com and ask or search, awesome forum there.

autopia.com is good too.

Thanks! I tried the autopia.com, but it points to some sort of dental software site? I always thought doing autobody and paint was like pulling teeth LOL. I just didn't know to what extent it was LOL

I'll try the autobody store and see what pans out. This can't be that difficult of a task, just having the correct supplies and technique. I'm sure someone has a how to wet sand clearcoat for dummys somewhere.

Steve,

I might be able to help if you tell me what your trying to accomplish

Is it faded? or chipped or what.

Will try to point you in the right direction.

Todd

Found a awesome site!
http://www.repairnation.com/paint_n_bodywo...nd&buffing2.htm

looks pretty easy......"Real famous last words of Custer"

Todd,
I just had my car freshly painted last month. After seeing what some of the places charge for cutting and buffing out a clearcoat, I said screw that I can do that. So I'm on a quest to get maybe a "kit" less buffer, to do it myself. How darn hard could it be? The site I posted above has all the details, i.e how to hold the buffer, edge line buffing DO's and DONT's, items needed etc. I just figured I'm not going to pay 200-400 clams to do this, plus I want to learn something new. Plus I need the extra cash to buy things from the guys on here LOL

Steve, The learning process of color sanding and buffing can be painful and expensive. $400.00 for a professional cut and polish is not unreasonable. It's labor intensive and takes a certain amont of skill.
"how hard can it be"? very hard! It's a skill mastered by few.

Have another peice of metal painted and try it before you f*^K up your brand new paint job. Having it repainted will cost a lot more than the $400.00. Go grab a faded hood from a junk yard and try to "bring it back to life" before you attempt your own new paint job.

Here's another link from a DIYer
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/ext45.shtml
I'll see if I can find others.

Check out a votech school that does bodywork to get some advice also. Talk to the instructor. Also check out a good classic car body specialist that does hot rods and collectibles.

Thanks for the wake-up call VSG. I'll get a old hood I have a around and throw some paint and clear coat on it and do a test run. I have to agree a little practice is in order. I know 400.00 is a reasonable cost, but I'm really tired of throwing money at this car. I have done everything else, I figured that I could do this task as well. I will do some practicing first rest assured. Thanks all for the links,..they are very insightful! Maybe I can get someone in town to show me how they do it?

What is it you are trying to do?
Polish a good paint job?
Sand out runs on a bad paint job?
Smooth out dips and holes in a bad body job?
Every one of these requires a different technique to do it right. The wrong one will ruin your current paint.

Doug

P914, Excellent advice.

I am on the advisory commitee for the advanced adult cabinetmaking class for the Tulsa Technology Center(Vo-Tech). The instructors love their jobs, and love talking about what they know how to do.

Take a look at Autobody Store. Very active BBS with excellent technical info.

I read the link at repair nation. That was all good info. But, a couple of things I do. Get a spray bottle and spray water on the car with it as you sand. Less wringing our of sponges and it still flushes away the clear that is sanded loose, and I don't get as wet as when I use a hose.

I find it easier to control the sand paper at an edge than a 8 inch buffer, so I sand near an edge carefully with only 2000grit. Then I use a 4 inch buffing pad on a die grinder on low pressure. It removes less material and if you press too hard it just stops. So I don't burn the paint. Heat is what buffs the car, and it will also burn the paint so I check the tempt of the panel with my hand as I buff, it slows me down and takes more time but, I never burn through yet. I also use the spray bottle again to cool it down or wet the compound.
Buy a good buffer. The more you sand with 2000 grit the less wool buffing you have to do. Get at least 4 of foam pads for the finish. Everyone buffs a little different and I surely don't think mine is the best, but it works for me.

Oops sorry Steve! autopia.org

Big difference.

Steve,

Sorry I did not follow this post yesterday, yes I actually have a job and I had to do it yesterday instead of reading the BBS all day , but here is my advise.

If you really want to learn this yourself take a class at a vocational school or if you know a body shop or guys that work in a body shop have one of them teach you. This is an art. You must know exactly how to do it or you just scrapped your paint job. Also you have to have the right tools and materials. A good Makita buffer, variable speed, will set you back at least $250.00. Sand paper, sanding block and all will run you around $25.00 to $50.00.

This technique of wet sanding is useful to take out scratches and renew the clearcoat but is most often used to clear up imperfections in the paint such as orange peel and fisheyes( to a small extent).

Basically the run down on the procedure is this. You wet sand the clear coat depending on the condition of the clearcoat you may start with 2000 unigrit sandpaper or you may start as high as 4000. You must have a micron graded quality sandpaper, purchase this from your local PBE supplier. Then you sucessively work your way to higher grits. Basically just looking to smooth the surface NOT remove and material. You use a soft foam sanding block and change your water regularly. Then you start buffing with a polishing compound, depending on how well you did on your sanding ( how smooth you got the finish) you may need to move through two different grades of polishing compounds. After several passes you should have a good finish. Then apply wax to protect.

I really cannot stress enough to have someone teach this to you or at least have them on hand to guide you along the first time. I have only done it a few times and I get very nervous every time I think about doing it.

Good Luck,

Todd

If a pro paints it, you practice on a hood you painted, and then you start sanding out your car, you are going to find out something quick..

Pros shoot thin even coats.

Don't burn a hole.


M

Thanks guys for all the fantastic pointers. I'm now sweating bullets about doing this myself. I just don't have the time to go somewhere and learn this right now and that is a bummer on its own. Damn I hate turning loose anymore cash "unless for pieces parts". I guess I'll have to swallow hard and cough up the money for a pro to do it. If I could do it all by hand and not use a buffer "this is the spooky part", then I would attempt it. This really sux LOL.........

My first experience with a buffer involved a fading paint job. It looked bad when I started and worse when I finished. I had light and dark spots, lines, swirls, and everything else you can imagine. It was ALOT harder than I thought it would be. I've painted cars, rebuilt engines, done body work, and lot's of other stuff. Buffing is an art that you have to learn the feel of it is much harder than doing body work with filler which is something else you have to get the feel of. Body work by a novice is better than a buff job by a novice in my opinion.
I'd spend the $400 dollars. If you do want to get into buffing. Practice on something else....alot.

I'm a much better buffer today than I was then and the only paint job I would buff is one that is almost shot anyway.

Now, that said, everybody who buff's professionally learned how to do it sometime. And there is only one way to learn how to do it.

Weigh the options and make your decision from that.

Don't feel you have to get this car buffed right away. If you are in the middle of a restoration you are better to wait until you are ready to put it on the road. The reason? You will scratch it during the rest of the job and a good buffer can clean up quite a bit if he knows what he is doing. My car was painted on the May long weekend and I will probably have it buffed next spring when I finally put it on the road. Better to wait until you have the $$$$ and have it done right.

Steve, I went through the same mental turmoil when I bought those Fuchs from you. When I realized the time and effort I would use up, I decided there and then to get people that knew the correct way to do things. At that point it was a matter of techniques employed and cost comparisons. Time was no issue once the decision was made, not to mention effort and agony avoided It will be worth the $$ spent if you find the right resource.

I'd have to agree on all points touched upon. The car is complete all for execpt some engine tuning and installing some interior pieces. I'm pretty fearless when tackling something mechanical, but the high speed buffer thing stops me dead in my tracks. I guess it is going to make me pull out my wallet and let someone else do the work. At least if it is hosed up they can fix it.

You may want to talk to the local votech instructor and see if he accepts side jobs. just a thought.

Yepper,..I think that sounds like a good idea!!!

The first wetsand I did, I was told to use a squeegee frequently to examine how I was doing in removing orange peel. As soon as its flat, or even before, STOP! If you were going to go finer in grit, do it before you get to the stopping point. But, get this, I had to rub out the same car by hand, no buffer for Zekey. This all under the tutelage of a custom painter. About 4 times around the car with rubbing compund and then 4 more with polishing compund and then 4 more with Meguires cleaner/wax. Must have taken me 3 days. It was the old wax on wax off routine way before the movie. I learned the very hard way, but this old boy taught me alot. That's where I started and eventually he let me prime, then paint.

Still, I'd pay the $400.