Ok, here goes... I'm planning to address a few issues starting this weekend. My steering wheel was seemingly mismounted and is off by about 20-30 degrees. My odometer doesn't work, and the turn signal cancellation doesn't work.

I've read the Pelican articles and intend to follow those. I'm hoping that the turn signal cancellation issue will be corrected just by aligning the steering wheel. (Also, when signaling, both signal indicators on my dash blink even though only the appropriate exterior blinker goes on. What to check?)

I'm going tool shopping after work for, I believe: a breaker bar, 29-30mm socket, "The Club", and a torque wrench. Can I get decent ones at my local Harbor Freight or should I get Craftsman stuff? Is there anything else I need for this job? I have a pretty small collection of (mostly Craftsman) tools, so perhaps there are other must-haves I should pick up while I'm there?

Any tips would be appreciated.

Memory of that job is fading fast (over half a year ago) but here's a few random brain dribbles.


1) Strange name : the "Button" is what they call the movable, bowtie-shaped piece that you press, even tough it's pretty large and not very button-like. Took me a little while to figure that out.

2) The spring that keeps the horn feeling "right" is actually a piece of rubber. Definitely get a new one - makes a world of difference. (Pelican calls it "Horn Button Center Support")

3) If you remove the lower dash panel (knee pad thingie), which I seem to recall was part of the job, be sure you put it back on within a few days of finishing the job, 'cause you might, like, lose some of the screws. Actually, I think that step is only neccesary if you're replacing the steering shaft bearings. More work & $$, but it did tighten up the feel quite a bit. Enough, in fact, that I then had to replace the tie rods ....

4) For the torque wrench, I'd say stick with the old-fashioned icepick style. They're cheaper, and they're pretty much indestructable.

Good luck !

I got some junk at Harbor Freight. I was not able to find a 29 or 30 mm socket there. I stopped at a FLAPS and they only had a 29mm "axle socket" (for $19 ) but no 30mm. Is "axle socket" the right thing?

IIRC, you need a 27mm socket for the steeringwheel...

or 1 1/8? or 1 1/16

one of those satndard equiv...

i think its 1 1/16

yep 1 1/16" = 26.97mm

I remember when I put my steering wheel back on, it was misaligned and the signals would not cancel correctly. Once I got the wheel centered finally, cancellation worked.

Yeah, the cancellation doesn't work for turning left. I talked to Twysted1 (Clayton) earlier and he was skeptical that it was the steering wheel being off-center until I confirmed that symptom.

I'm hoping my father-in-law has some off those larger sized sockets for me to try out.

If both indicators on your tach flash, it's because you have an early 74 car. In 74, they went to a single indicator light for the turn signals. But they evidently had quite a few of the older tachs with two indicators, because there are quite a few people out there with 74 that have 'em. (Also silver cones in the middle of the instruments.)

The wiring had changed, though, so there was no separate left or right signal for the indicator. So the techs at the factory just bridged the two lights together, so you get both flashing.

You can change that around, but it requires a bit more work than I would recommend to someone just starting out....

--DD

Dave, Thanks for the answer concerning the indicators! Now I can respond with trivia when my passengers ask why they do that.

You should be able to get a 27mm at Lowes or Home Depot. Lowes had them when I was looking.


Signal light issues = go cleaning grounds and other wire at the lights and at the gauge. Mine did the same thing until I restored the whole damn system.

OK, I'll go get a 27mm or 1 1/16". The Pelican parts article says "27mm on the 911 and 912" and "29-30mm for the 356 & 914".