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Full Version: 914-6 SLOW rebuild thread
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proto31
So, I got my camera working the same day that this site went down. I've tried to attach a bunch of recent photos of the new project. I've got photos of it when it arrived as a bare metal tub, but those our on my cell phone and I have not yet figured how to transfer them. Th ecar is an original 6, the 11 one to role of the assembly line. The car originally had some rust, the previous owner had repaired most of it, I've had to fix a few odds and ends. I'm currently waiting on a set of rear fenders so that I can finish the body work and get this thing to the paint shop.
proto31
another
proto31
QUOTE(proto31 @ May 17 2006, 10:05 PM) *

another

proto31
QUOTE(proto31 @ May 17 2006, 10:06 PM) *

QUOTE(proto31 @ May 17 2006, 10:05 PM) *

another


proto31
This is a lousy photo (couldn't get it to turn out any better) of the rear trunk stamped VIN #, something that was only done on very few of the early 6's.
proto31
The engine mount, I intentionally did not primer the area surounding the clutch cable exit tube because I was thinking about preemtively reinforcing it. My previous 2 914's both had that area eventually fail, not the easiest fix when you have nearly a full tank of gas to get rid of some how...
proto31
Battery tray, this was replaced althought the previous tray only had some pitting from rust, no rust holes.
proto31
Picture of rear without rear fender. The black stuff is undercoating that I sprayed before installation of the fender. I figured it would be hard to get up in there after I weld the fenders on.
proto31
You might have noticed the targa top in the last photo is primered sad.gif. I want to keep this car as stock as possible, that was an extra top that came with the car that wasn't in great shape, thought it might be cool to have on top painted the same color as the car (silver)...
proto31
Newly welded in jack points and outer clamshell, as well as the door sill.
proto31
The early 6's and all the factory Gt's had the front fenders welded to the windsheild cowl, there was some lead fill that was added to fill in what ever was not covered by the weld.
proto31
Some of the rust that still needs to be repaired, this is the passanger
proto31
What do you think of the cart I built? Makes moving it around very very easy...
proto31
Some of the parts...
proto31
Here is a pic of the early style inside door handle, only the first few hundred cars had these. Notice how the handle projects straight out, it doesn't have the extra dip in it that all the other handles had.
proto31
Here's a pic of the driverside heat exchanger. I need the passanger side, does anyone have one?? confused24.gif
proto31
Well, I guess the other photos are too large to add to this thread, I will take some more pics at a lower resolution...
Eric Taylor
Great Project and Great work! My dream project is to do what your doing by restoring a factory 6. I bet that cart is just great for moving the car around on. Really fine work, keep it up, another 6 saved ! smile.gif
proto31
I've ordered a full set of Bilstein Sports for the car, I will also be installing stock sway bars, what springs should I go with? I've got the originals but was wondering if I should get the Weltmeister 140's or the 100's?
Lou W
Sure looks good, definatley keep the pictuters coming.

And Yes, Thats a mighty fine cart you have there. thumb3d.gif
RON S.
Looking great beerchug.gif beerchug.gif



Keep working on it,and it'll be back onthe road where it belongs.



Ron
Jeroen
looks like you did a ton of work
keep it up!
URY914
I like that dolly you have it sitting on. Sure makes it easy to work on when it is a couple of feet off the ground. thumb3d.gif
sixerdon
Nice project! I'm always interested in the very early cars. In particular, I like the lack of fender to cowl detail and am curious how far this went into production before the seam was forever included. I assume your car was for Euro delivery? I own #0137 which had a build date in Jan. '70 which has the seam. If you have your original floor pan, you will notice that there were no "buttons" for holding the carpets in place. They didn't include the buttons until sometime after February.
You have a unique car there with interesting details.
Good Luck!
Don
davep
QUOTE(proto31 @ May 17 2006, 09:08 PM) *

This is a lousy photo (couldn't get it to turn out any better) of the rear trunk stamped VIN #, something that was only done on very few of the early 6's.



What number is stamped into the trunk floor? It should be the chassis #.
VIN 0033 has chassis # 130008 stamped there.
Please keep me posted on this car.
proto31
Dave, I'll get back to you with the trunk number, I'm away from the car right now. Any suggestions on rear springs, I've got a set of new Billsteins front and rear. I was thinking about buying some weltmeister 140lb springs. I put these same springs in my 75 2.0 many years ago, it seemed a little too stiff for day to day driving. Did the 6's have heavier springs on them stock from the factory? I suppose the engine is a bit heavier so the 140's might not be as stiff. Any suggestions?

Oh, and does anyone have any ideas on removing torsion bars. I have the whole front end entirely dissasembled except for the torsion bars. I want to inspect them. I'll post some new picks in the next few days. So far the suspension has been beed blasted, painted and new wheel bearing have been pressed into the rear trailing arms.
davep
The sixes did have heavier springs. I'd say the 140 lb or perhaps the 165 lb progressives.

Torsion bars are easy. Remove the adjuster bolt, remove the cap and pull the bar out.
proto31
QUOTE(davep @ May 29 2006, 04:30 PM) *

The sixes did have heavier springs. I'd say the 140 lb or perhaps the 165 lb progressives.

Torsion bars are easy. Remove the adjuster bolt, remove the cap and pull the bar out.


I've tried pulling the torsion bars out, but they both appear pretty stuck. Any suggestions?
SirAndy
QUOTE(Lou W @ May 18 2006, 03:44 AM) *

And Yes, Thats a mighty fine cart you have there.
agree.gif and i sure hope you used some sort of bracing on the door-openings and/or roof when you welded the longs ...

smile.gif Andy
SirAndy
QUOTE(proto31 @ May 30 2006, 03:21 PM) *

I've tried pulling the torsion bars out, but they both appear pretty stuck. Any suggestions?

smash.gif

take off the adjuster and the end-cap and hit 'em. they should slide right out ...
cool_shades.gif Andy
davep
Andy says to remove the end cap (frost plug type thing) at the front of the tube. You have to remove the protective cover to do that. Usually I just drill a small hole in the end cap instead of removing it. Just a big enough hole to put a drift through. A few good hammer hits should loosen the bar. Just be sure to plug the hole after you are done. If the bars are really rusted in there, I'd say remove the whole assembly and thoroughly clean the A-arms inside and out. Rust tends to build up in the tubes and abrades the coating on the T-bar. Then the T-bar rusts, and failure is just a matter of time. I'd guess that in Canada at least half the T-bars in 914's failed.
proto31
Supports were made for the car before the drivers side long was replaced. Everything is nice and straight smile.gif Thanks for the advice on the torsion bars, I will try to hit the end really hard and wiggle it out, if that doesn't work then I will drill the hole and push a drift threw.

A quick question, I bought the turbo tie rod ends for the car, in the kit came two very thick wahsers, do I need to use these as spacers, seems like the length is right on with the old tie rods?

SirAndy
QUOTE(proto31 @ May 30 2006, 09:02 PM) *

A quick question, I bought the turbo tie rod ends for the car, in the kit came two very thick wahsers, do I need to use these as spacers, seems like the length is right on with the old tie rods?

yes, you'll need to use the big washers ...

wink.gif Andy
Aaron Cox
QUOTE(SirAndy @ May 30 2006, 09:21 PM) *

QUOTE(proto31 @ May 30 2006, 09:02 PM) *

A quick question, I bought the turbo tie rod ends for the car, in the kit came two very thick wahsers, do I need to use these as spacers, seems like the length is right on with the old tie rods?

yes, you'll need to use the big washers ...

wink.gif Andy


they keep you from over extending the rack.... they are effectovely your steering locks...
proto31

thanks, I'll put the washers back in.
Aaron Cox
put the 140 lb springs in for a driver, will compliment the 19mm stock t bars up front nicely
Eric_Shea
QUOTE
will compliment the 19mm stock t bars up front nicely


What 19mm bars? Does it have a 911 front end? 914-6's have 17.8mm bars with the 911 spline count wink.gif

Find 914-6 springs. They're around 90lbs I believe. Find a recent thread where Bradhole scanned the factory info. You'll have to convert the numbers.

Also, to get those bars out, hit the exposed end with a BFH. They will simply push their way through the Welch Plug style caps. Meaning; Don't try to pull them out, just push them out the other side. Watch where the caps go... they're hard to find these days.
proto31
smile.gif Thanks Eric, just got them out today. What size/length lug bolts will I need for the front and rear if I want to run a set of Fuchs? I have hubs with various sizes and want to be sure I put the new bearings in the right ones?
Eric_Shea
Closed 911 alloy nuts = 45mm

Open racing nuts = 72mm

Factor spacers accordingly...
Aaron Cox
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ May 31 2006, 02:05 PM) *

QUOTE
will compliment the 19mm stock t bars up front nicely


What 19mm bars? Does it have a 911 front end? 914-6's have 17.8mm bars with the 911 spline count wink.gif

Find 914-6 springs. They're around 90lbs I believe. Find a recent thread where Bradhole scanned the factory info. You'll have to convert the numbers.

Also, to get those bars out, hit the exposed end with a BFH. They will simply push their way through the Welch Plug style caps. Meaning; Don't try to pull them out, just push them out the other side. Watch where the caps go... they're hard to find these days.


no way? they have smaller splined 911 bars??????? the more you know!!!

that makes sense.....

(put 19mm ones in there tho LOL )

wow. i learned something!
highways
Hey Proto, per our conversation yesterday, and your request for some help finding research on how to restore your factory 914-6 to original stock condition, I did a little snooping around and found some stuff you're really going to like. These European cars are super sweet stock 914-6's, right down to the sheetmetal buttwelds.

You mentioned that you're probably going to paint it silver, is this what you had in mind?

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That car is super sweet. Here's another view:
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Ok, well maybe the frog lights are little bit too much for a guy like you. Here's another pic of this stock 6 without the bug eyes:
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Pretty nice wouldn't you say!? I bet you can't wait to drive it like this...

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RoadGlue
A little more roll control might be nice there... yikes!
highways
Hey what is that thing there? Well don't worry I'm sure you can find it on ebay to complete your stock look.
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Here's a super sweet red car. I know you also mentioned painting it orange, but you know red is the retro bling bling.
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highways
Man this getting me so excited just seeing these things!! I bet you can't wait to show people this side of your car as you pull away from them at the stop light, pedal to the metal!
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Man, talk about bling bling, there's that thing again!
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Just like the other stock 6!! That's so weird... confused24.gif



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WHAT IS THAT HOT BLING BLING ON THOSE 6's????????
highways
OH MY GOD!!! THE CHICKS ARE GOING TO FLIP WHEN THEY SEE YOU SPORTING A 100% STOCK SIX WITH THE REAL BLING!!!!! mrs.K.gif



















Jumpy.gif

CHECK IT OUT DUDE!!!!! cheer.gif

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highways
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