These are ready to install on the race car. I don't see any problems with the oil temp sump plate, but the clutch cable pulley might not work. It has been pointed out to me that an aluminum wheel and stainless steel cable will not get along very long. I will probably produce the final product in steel unless there are some better suggestions. The steel version would be plated. Thanks for looking, commnets welcome. Those of you that expressed interest in them can email me and this time I will save your addresses and keep you posted on availability. If 914Club becomes a parts source, maybe the parts will be available thru here.

The above pic is the exploded view of the wheel with ball bearing insert and new 10mm bolt. The stud has to be removed from the housing. Attached here is the complete assembly.

And the plate:

That Taco Plate is a beauty! Are you planning on testing it for a while before you offer others for sale?

Sell them on here. I would imagine with a little arm twisting.. we could put a club page together for you.

I know of at least 5 cars close to me that have ran a billet wheel for more than 10 years. The clutch cable ends up burning on a header or breaking from something else... before we should have to worry about this wheel on the cable.

B

Regarding the cable burning on the headers: I have the KH or European Motorworks style headers and I see that it is very hard to route the cable through there. I am installing a 1400 degree tubular heat shield on my cable. I hope that will help. I have a source for that too, but I don't think it's that hard to find is it? It took me a while, though.

I coat all the headers I install now. Here is what I do to keep the cable off header:

There is a small "tab" hanging off the engine block on the passenger side that is threaded. I put a clamp around the cable and thread a bolt through the clamp and block. Its not easy to access and its a pain to route the cable through there when you do have to replace it, but it keeps it off the collector and the pipe from the number 3 cylinder.

Coating the header allows you to rest it on the pipes.. but the plastic will still melt to the pipes..just not as fast and you wont have to replace the cable.

When a clutch cable melts on a non-coated header...the plastic sheathing "falls" through the metal internal supports and keeps the cable from moving smoothly when it cools. They are normally OK while on the track... but as soon as you get into the pit area and shut the car off the plastic cools and cable doesnt move.

B

Put me on the buyer's list for the taco plate, please. Somehow, I think y'all knew that already...

The 2 metals will get along if they don't get wet and grease will help also.

I use header wrap around oil lines it would do the job here, also......yeah, I've heard all the blurbs bout header wrap, so don't bother me with it <_< .....It's been on mine for 4 years and they haven't self destructed yet.

I have a mostly full box of the stuff if you wanna try it.

Header wrap works great as long as you dont use it on headers...LOL LOL

Seriously.. header wrap holds moisture and causes the exhaust to rust even faster (sponge) when/if they get wet.


B

Brad:
Well, it migth be a problem IF:

You take your car out in the rain.

You don't soak the wrap thru and thru with header paint.

I wasn't clear. I cover the header with the wrap in the area where an oil line comes close. I used to have 3 spots, but now have it down to one... you saw how I had rerouted the line off the scavange side, eh.....the intake tube right below the oil cooler is the only problem area.

When you do some SSI headers, take care of that, will ya?

Count me in for both items


Bernie

For the header wrap, a high temp silicon spray is available to coat/saturate the wrap to help prevent problems down the road due to water and grime

I just wanted to clarify that I found a half inch ID 1400 degree tube for the cable, not the header itself. Actually, I found two types, one has a high temp sicone covering over a kevlar (I think) interior. The other is just a woven product, most likely kevlar again.

Looks GOOD !!

Did you do that wheel according original dimensions of the plastic wheel ??

What kind of bearing did you use ?? Is it sealed ?? Or do you have two of them in one wheel ?? What is the OD and width of the bearings ??

Hah! It took me a long time to figure these things out. But, I'll give you this tidbit: there are two bearings, side by side.

Ok, many thanks for shearing that valuable tidbit.