So I did my first ignition upgarde (new coil, plugs, wires, etc) and it runs quite a bit better now. So my next problem is that the car will idle, but if you mash the gas the car will hesitate, and if you feather the gas, the rpms will increase.

What's the most likely culprit - possible a clogged fuel injector?

Injectors don't clog, except in commercials. Did you set the dwell? Did you then set the timing? Did you use genuine Bosch or Beru components? What else did you do?
The Cap'n

I installed the super ignition kit from pelica (all bosche parts). I put in the:
# New Spark Plugs
# New Ignition Wires
# New Distributor Cap
# New Ignition Rotor
# New Ignition Points
# New Bosch Blue Coil

However I couldn't see an easy way to put in the condenser (it looks like you have to pull out the distributor in order to loosen the clip).

I will check with my haynes manual on how to set the dwell, but I haven't set the timing yet (I usually leave that until last)

I was under the impression that fuel injectors clog quite often - posts like this one
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=33504&hl=
lead me to think that. I was going to send my fuel injectors to this place http://www.witchhunter.com/ I may be wrong, but I heard that it was normal for them to clog or just dribble out gas

Thanks for the help
Terry

" but I haven't set the timing yet (I usually leave that until last)"

this is why you have hesitation.

"Timing is everything" make sure your dwell is within spec first though, cause you'll have to re-time it if not. Also your car won't run right if the new condenser is not grounded to the dizzy. That tiny screw is a pain in the a$$, but it can be done without pulling the dizzy.

I just changed points and condenser and removed the distributor. One bolt, out it comes. Change the points and condenser on the work bench. No dropped screws into the engine tin. No aching back. Good chance to clean up the area under the distributor and clean out pieces of alternator belt from a previous broken belt.

Spoke

So I consulted my Haynes manual to find out what the heck dwell was. It instructed me to use a third party dwell device and set the dwell angle. Lotta help that is.

Anyone have an easy to understand guide to setting the dwell? I really have no idea what it is or how to go about it.

Once I get an idea of what I'm doing, I'll go ahead and set the dwell, then do the timing.

just found this one on pelican
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9.../914_timing.htm

I'll give it a try tomorrow

I use a digital dwell meter. All dwell is, the time the points stay closed expressed by an angle. that angle referenced from a circle having 360 degrees. It's really easy and the meter will have instructions how to hook it up and your manual will describe what you have to adjust.

Terry,
Is your 914 'green' ? I saw a green one Saturday near my neighborhood?
If you want just come by any evening this week after 6PM. We can check it together.
I got everything we need just bring your 914. 13123 Madoona Ln., Fairfax.
root

I'd love to come by, but I'm going to need a few things first (like brakes, more sheet metal, and and inspection sticker!)

I've got a rusty, white 71. I'll definately let you know once I get it on the road though!

I set the dwell to 44 (was at 30), then did the timing. My timing isn't dead on (the red mark would move around within a 1/4 inch range), but it's pretty close. The car runs much better now, but I did develope a new problem:

The tach now bounces all over the place. I idle, then tap the gas, and the tach's needle jumps to 4K, then bounce back to 0, then lands back at idle. My dwell meter / tach replorts accurate rpms though. Any idea what would cause this? The tack was dead on before, so I muse have loosened / done something to it.

any ideas? Where does my tach hookup? I'm assuming that it's one of the wires on my coil.

I know this doesn't help, but my '70 1.7 does the same thing from time to time. Usually it's back to normal before I know it. Sometimes it's basically dead, other times twitching wildly. It never effects performance. Just today I put the battery in after a recharge and the tach was dead. Next time I start it it'll probably work. I've never looked into it, but it's gotta be an intermittent or high impedence 35 year old connection.
Ed

Terry,

Did you replace the condensor? If not your old condensor may be leaking and not supreesing transient voltage spikes from the points. If you did you may have the wrong condensor or the condensor wire in the distributor is making poor contact or grounding out. So I'd check the condensor the tach dosen't like those transients.

Sorry, I didn't call today just had too many things on the 'honey dew' list.

Jim and I are going to BUGOUT ealry tomorrow morn stay for a couple hours then on our way back we'll give you a call.
-root

Oh! the tach connects to the #1 terminal on the coil. The #1 is the same terminal that the condensor connects to. I think the tach wire is black/red and the condensor is green.

Per the Pelican wiring diagrams for a '71, the tach wire on term 1 should be vio/blk, while 12V is red/blk on term 15. Correct; green to term 1. Here's a pieced-together schematic of the tach signal, power, and ground (think I got it right). Culprits could be signal connection from coil to tach (via relay board), or power connection from combo gauge to tach. Could be a bad ground connection at the tach but that could effect other gauges/lamps. Time to start wiggling