I like the idea of a dry sump oil system for my AX/DE car. I can't find any dry sump pumps for Type IVs, but there are several options for Type Is. Is there any way to modify a Type I dry sump oil pump to work on a Type IV?

Yes. But what are you going to do with the fan shroud? You have to go upright.

I have managed 1.4G in a SCCA Production 1.8 screemer for close to 15 years now on Goodyear bias ply slicks... with no dry sump. We do however use a Accusump to help with oil pressure loss.

One of the first things I ask people when they speek of dry sump:

Do you know why people run dry sumps?

To provide scavenging from different area's and to keep oil off the crank shaft.

T4's dont really have a issue with oil on the crankshaft because of its location above the camshaft.

However.. the cool factor is WAY up on the plumbing and associated goodies!!! LOL


B

Autocraft is a good source of dry sump pumps for type IVs. We used one of their three stage on my 2.8L four.

Greg,

I converted my prod car to dry sump for this season. I ran an Accusump (the Moroso version) for the previous 2 seasons. The Accusump works well and I would have stayed with it, if Jake and I didn't have some serious plans for a real engine coming along soon.

So, if you're interested in the Accusump deal (this is the most cost effective and reasonable solution), I can sell mine to you for a reasonable sum..... including fittings and a check valve.

If you're interested in running a dry sump (I wouldn't for DE and auto-x... all the plumbing will set you back some serious $$$) I can let you know what I did.... I run the CB 4-gear type1 dry sump pump. Not the best pump, but so far it works well for me. I have a Patterson tank which is huge... and I run 17 quarts of oil in my system, believe it or not. I'm not willing to take risks with oil pressure. I had no issues with the fan shroud... just a smidge of clearancing on the webbing. I did have a lot of issues with the engine support bar. I had to move the engine mounts and create an all-new engine support bar. But, this was in the plans because I wanted to make the engine support bar a stressed member of the rear suspension....long story there.

more pics kevin!

When fitting an Accusump, where do people usually put it? Rear trunk?

They're at home... and the rear suspension part isn't done yet... I am documenting the project.

Here's some interesting data from a lap of Mid-Ohio with an Accusump. The blue line is oil pressure... ranges from 14 to 60 psi, when the oil temp is ~230 for the lap.... so the car's plenty warmed up. Even though the revs are up, the oil pressure still drops on high-g (Acc_1 is lateral acceleration) turns. Now, 14 psi isn't 5 psi and oil pressure is still there, no doubt, but it's not great. I'll be at M-O again in 10 days with the dry sump and I can post the data from that and we'll see exactly what it does for me... could be nothing, we'll see.

Here's another pic of the dry sump pump installed.

My new engine support bar is also pictured. I did give up some ground clearance, but now, the tuna can is no longer the lowest part of the car. I did not have to adjust my ride height and I run it pretty low.

The new rear semi-trailing arm suspension will use that engine support bar mounting point as it's inner pivot... using that bar as a stressed member. I'm pretty excited about this, but I have to get some time with a TIG and a mill. I'm using aluminum 944 rear trailing arms for the "knuckle".

James,

Depends. If you have a front mounted oil cooler, you can mount the accumulator anywhere in the return line to the engine. I mounted it in the passenger seat area.

I never opened and closed the valve with start up, so it didn't really matter where I mounted it.

If you don't have a front mounted cooler, you've got to get an oil line to and from your engine and then tap into that line to insert the accumulator. Remote oil filter is probably the easiest.