Have my motor out and was amazed at the flex in the stock rubber motor bar mounts - so much that I could easily move the bar several inches without the motor moving. I've read most of the threads about the various options but I am looking for reviews by those who have installed new nylon ones vs the stock rubber? Also, can you limit the dampening of the rubber by tightening the bolts and compressing the stock mounts?

the thing is, the stock ones arent a thru bolt. they are isolators.... 2 seperate pieces of threaded rod incased in the same rubber.....

so tightening doesnt do much for you.... it will still flop around in the ceter section.....

try nylon/delrin or if you want rigid... go to steel.


i assume we are talking about 73+ mounts?

Aaron - Thanks. Yes it is a '73. Would like rigid, but not enough to rattle my fillings. Still tryin to assess how much is too much - the car will be a spirited driver but don't want to be too uncomfortable on those long drives!

you will definitely feel delrin and solid nylon....

really isnt a good compromise between stock and hard plastic.

give em a try. they are cheap enuff..... worst case you go buy NEW stock ones...

I'd be careful if planning on using solid front motor mounts.
They are attached to the motor studs via their right angle brackets.
To much shock loading can break the studs from the case.
Not an easy fix. There's a thread about it .

I gotta ask... Exactly why do you want solid motor mounts? Transmission mounts are one thing, there's a huge lever arm out there, and soft mounts will allow the transmission to move around quite a bit. Going to solid motor mounts will give you LOTS of vibration into your teeth. And I'm sceptical what benefit they'd actually do for you outside fo a full-tilt race car.

-Josh2

i think your stock mounts are shot. my motor mount bar did not move much when i had the motor out.

Just my opinion, but if you do solid trans mounts, you had better put solid engine mounts in, or you will stress and potentially break the trans mount ears.

With a flexible joint in front, and a rigid mount in back, the rigid mount has to overcome all the motion in the front. If the front is also solid, the engine/trans can not move with respect to the body of the car. There will be increased vibration and noise.

Just to recap, in my opinion you need similar stiffness in both the engine mounts and the trans mounts.

Go to the used sporting goods store and buy two hockey pucks. Take a hole saw and cut them down to about the same size as the stock mounts. Then drill a hole all the way through and run a through bolt for mounting it in the engine bar. This is a really good compromise. If you want to vary the stiffness wrap a radiator hose clamp around it and tighten it down a little.

You can fill the stock rear tranny mounts with 3M window weld and keep vibration down to the minimum. The solid polymounts can be fairly harsh for some people.

I think my Huntville friend was refering to the soft spongy hochey pucks as compared to the hard ice pucks. The sorf ones were those which we were glad to take in the nuts remebering the others in comparison and oh yes, they do give with a hose clamp v.s. the others.

Ya, just experience.

Hey, how about those frozen tennis balls, ouch!

i got some nylons from jwest, i'll let you know how they feel in a couple days. i think it'll be just what i wanted.

I replace mine with new stock ones - immense improvement in the shifting.

I also did the rear tranny ones with the 911 sports - I could feel the vibration difference.

As an engineer who isolates engines on the bigger riding mowers - we have to do this on anything over 30hp - else the vibration tears up the mounts over time.

But its your car, and what you want. Just my .01 .

M

No I am talking about the hard ones.

We are the Hockey capital of the South. Know a little about it, (we recruit Canucs for our hockey teams).