I have been looking for a 914 now for a couple of months. I have around 4k to spend and I would like to get a nice condition car that I can Autox on the weekends. I don’t need the car to be competitive just as long as its not the slowest car out there. My problem is I have been looking at several publications each day trying to find a 73-74 914 with a 2.0L engine without any luck. I went and looked at a couple but the had too much rust and damage on them. Would I be happy with just a 1.8L? I am not too familiar with how the 914 engines are laid out. Did Porsche use different blocks for the 1.8 and 2.0 or were the bores just different? I am basically looking for a nice looking straight car with a strong engine and tranny. What are the major differences between the engines? Are there any performance possibilities with a 1.8? Should I just keep looking for a 2.0 until I find one that works for me. I am in the San Diego, CA area if anyone knows of any cars that might fit what I am looking for. Thanks for the help.
-Andrew

All the cases were the same. The combo was changed with bore, stroke and rod length....and the heads.

too... many... andy/andrew's...


AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!

I think you would be fine with any of them. Put some stiffer suspension and some sticky tires and you should whip all those old 911's. It's all driving.
Also fork out as much money as you can to get the best example you can, 4k should be able to get you a very very nice 1.7 or a very nice 2.0
I would stay under 74 year. after that you deal with smog and you have those big heavy *cough ugly* bumpers.

Good luck!
Andrew

I wish I could find a very nice 2.0 for 4k but there just dont seem to be many. Either they have lots of rust or they have been in accidents. How do the cylinders on those engines work? Instead of boring them out did they just replace them depending on the displacement? I saw a picture of one and it looked like the cylinders almost screwed into the block. Anyways if anyone knows of a clean 2.0 or 1.8 in the San Diego, CA It would be much appreciated. I know I have always treated my cars with lots of care and respect and I am trying to find one where the owner has the same mentality. Thanks for the help guys. Is there anyone out there who has owned both a 1.8 and a 2.0 and can make comparisons.
-Andrew
-Andrew

I bought my 74 2.0 in LA in 99 for $3800. It's incredibly solid, but the paint is faded.

You want to sell it?
-Andrew

Andrew,
Not for sale.



Try autotrader, and ebay. Dont bid off ebay, just watch it for cars near you. I found my car off ebay, and I got 2 other parts cars and a shedfull of parts for 950.

I could sell my car for about 5k (once I paint it, have paint) and all the parts for another 1k..

The deals and half projects are out there. But I say you find the nicest example. Check your local paper as well.

Good luck
Andrew

I like the fact that you cant find a 73 2.0 for under 4k. That means the one I have that needs an engine rebuild with be worth 5500$ when I'm done. Its solid and never been wrecked.



B

here's "some" issues...

'74 and older cars in CA are smog-inspection-exempt. this has tended to raise the prices on those cars and depress the value of '75-76 (which also had other issues ...

the incremental difference between 1,7 -> 1,8 -> 2,0 are pretty small, because as the engines got bigger, so did the smog equipment and 'creature comfort' packages get heavier.

1,8's used a different injection system that is generally believed to be superior (and more tunable) than the injection used in the 1,7 and 2,0 -- but it does have a couple of quirks and mostly - since it was basically produced just that one year (30 years ago) and some parts are getting difficult to find and/or pricey. fortunately, there aren't many "high-wear" parts.

IMO - you can be happy with a 1,8 (i was happy wih a 1,7 for a long time) unless you are fixated on a 2,0 in which case you need to decide for yourself what that's worth ...

Andrew,

I found my '76 2.0 through this site last year. I paid $4k. The car was in Dana Point, which is quite a distance from where I live. Don't be afraid to look outside of your local area. If a single girl can pull it off, surely you can too!

It takes time to find the right car. Be patient and keep looking. Because I was on the hunt for a daily driver to replace my wrecked GTI, I had a limited amount of time in which to find something; I had to have a car before school started. I searched every day for almost two months before I found what I was looking for, but I did find it and I'm very happy with what I got. Your car is out there somewhere!

So, could you build a 2270 with a 1.8L case? or should a 2.0 be used?

This is some of what Car & Driver and Road & Track said about the 2.0-4 when it first came out in '73:

Car & Driver

"Okay, the price is pretty high," you say, "but the 914 is a true mid-engine sports car and a whole lot better now than it used to be." And with that we absolutely agree. In fact, we think that the new 2-liter model is such an improvement that it is now up to the level the 914 should have been when it was first introduced in 1970 ...

Road & Track

Even without the pressure for cleaner air, the larger but simpler engine would be a good choice on the basis of power for money alone. And the 2-liter engine is better than the figures show. It fired readily when cold and ran well for the first few miles, unlike most of the 1973 models. It's an eager engine as well, so willing to accelerate that the driver must guard against exceeding the redline - a modest 5600 rpm - in the lower three gears of five. The 914/2 is not a quiet car, not with an aircooled engine inches behind the cockpit, but the mechanical noise and the exhaust note somehow seem sportier than one would expect from an engine of such humble antecedents. Perhaps engines, like men, can rise to greatness if circumstances require it.

swood, it doesn't matter.. all of the 914 cases are identical (or close enough that it doesn't matter). The bus cases, on the otherhand, are another story..

Leave the 2.0s original. That's what I'm doing with mine. Rather than modifying my '73 2.0, I've found a complete 1.8 that I'm going to use to build a 96 x 78 mm big-four. The 2.0s were very good engines stock. IMO, they should be left that way.

Uhuh- I'm not sure the combination of 2270 ( tried the math on 96 & 103 B+P, 66,71,74 and 78mm stroke) but yes any case will do. May have to machine heads for 96 index and you will have to machine case and heads for 103. Reckon the case will need some clearancing for 78mm stroke.

2270 is 96 mm bore x 78.4 mm stroke. Not sure why some measure the crank as 78.4.

If i add exhaust and intake to the a 1.8 would that put it up in the same level as the 2.0?

It'll help a little, but in answer to your question...No.
Your still short a couple hundred cc's. You can turn the 1.8 into just about anything you want with minor to major expense, but it does involve a total breakdown and rebuild.

A decent cam helps loads and wakes up the engine (if you're using carbs or aftermarket EFI).
Don't think the L jet is too tolerant of lots of overlap.

An aggressive cam might be too much, but a larger displacement of let's say +15% should easily tolerable for an L-jet system. However, you have to adjust the airflow sensor for the larger volume!

Usually, getting more fuel into an engine is not the problem, but getting more air is. A larger displacement, aggressive cam, and some other modifications gets you more air; the fuel will "follow"...

I have a 1.8 L-jet in good condition with ultrasonically cleaned injectors, adjusted airflow sensor, new fuel lines (!!!), high flow cotton air filter, 2.0 exhaust system, and it is a serious 914. It has a standard cam, but FLAT (not dome shaped) Mahle pistons with an increased compression ratio of about 8.5:1... IMPO the only thing better is a TUNED, ie. modified 2.0 engine (larger displacement, aggressive cam with Webers, etc.).

Nevertheless, for AX you probably need something more than a 1.8.

What should I expect to pay for a '73-2.0 3rd owner. Had it for 12+ years.

No accidents. No rust, $6K in engine/transmission receipts? the body has a dent on the left side of the car. Solid condition. I am waiting on pictures. Thanks
-Andrew

Depending on alot of things like paint condition, rust issues, battery tray condition, trunks condition, interior condition.

Say, $3000-7500 as it alll depends.......


Pics will help alot.

Geoff

Say the paint is rough, the interior is rough (but comes with all new material to replace it) the engine is in very good shape as well as the tranny. What is everyones opinon about buying a car without seeing it in person? Thanks
-Andrew

I've always loved my 1.8s (all I ever had). I had stockers with a K&N filter, bursch exhaust, SSIs, and pertronix ignition, and they always seem to run really nice. otherwise the FI was untouched.

I always had rough running 1.8s to start. I just made sure the hoses were new, the injectors were cleaned, and the CHT was in spec. One 1.8 had a gunked up throttle position sensor and another had a leaking cold start valve. I cleaned the TPS and replaced th cold start valve and all was well.

my 1.8 got a 1.7 d-jet transplant, i then took out all the un-needed, like the decel-valve etc., and it runs really strong.
i even disconnected the AAR, still runs fine, even when cold.
just hooked up the oil-temp sending unit and i haven't gotten more than 130 in oil-temps ...

i'm happy
Andy

Andy, I hope that is Fahrenheit not Celsius!


Geoff

yes, got one of those "wrong" gauges , range is from 120F to 300F and so far, i haven't been able to get over 130F ...

Andy

I live in Maine and recently bought a car in Oregon. However, I did have a pre-purchase inspection on the car, which it passed. Based on the PPI, a lot of pictures and the opinions of many from this board, I basically bought it sight unseen and then flew out and drove it home. But I wouldn't have done it without the PPI.

Hey Joan! How are you!?

Nice to see you back!


Miles

Joan, that was one of the few cars that you could buy sight unseen.

How do you like that color now???

Geoff

Was there any differences as far as the bodies, suspension, etc. between the different engines. was a 1.8 suspension different than a 2.0L? Did sway bars come stock on any models any years?
-Andrew

It's growing on me and it goes well with my hair

LE (74) cars have the good stuff package.. sway bars.

2.0s have alloys

The limos came with rear side curtains in Pasha, and a decanter designed by Harry Winston.


M

In 73 the 2.0 cars came fully optioned. (including bars? I dunno on that) In 74 everything was a la carte.

Actually, a high percentage of 73 2.0s get the sport stuff, but NOT all.

There are a ton of cars out there without sways, and without consoles, most all have fogs.

Be on your toes.


M

We have a 73 2.0 with swaybars, but no fogs. Also have 73 1.7 with everything except sways.

The main thing is that 1.8s have a side shift tranny just as 2.0s.!

The so called "appearance group" package was very popular and included chrome bumpers, vinyl targa bars, console, dual horns, and fog lights. You could order it irrespective of 1.8 or 2.0 engine. Most 914s have this package and that explains "the luxury"!

Sway bars, light metal alloys, and coloured glass were separate options, also irrespective of 1.8 or 2.0 engine.

Right sided mirrors were never an option and had to be installed by the dealer if desired.

Actually, there is a part number for the right side mirror, complete with -objects in mirror probably not a porsche- thingy.



M