Round two
I just got back from PR and am working to bring down my Cylinder Head Temps around 25degs. You can check out my previous attempt here

On the agenda for this round.
Replace and reset valve adjusters
New plugs, NGKs B7ES and B6ES, I'm trying both
Reset timing to spec, then try some extra advance and retard to see if I can bring the temps down that way.
Reset brake venting clearance
Pull out firewall sound deadening, a good sugestiong from agrump.

My combo
411 case
Bus pistons, thank you GEX
stock 2.0 crank and cam
2.0 heads with SI Stainless valves, thank you EMS
D-jet
Westach CHT gauge mounted under #3 plug

Any help would be greatly apprecheated, I'd just love to drive without worring I'm destroying my engine.
Thanks
Samson

So all the ajusters were flat and worn. Sorry for the picture. But they all looked like this, I wouldn't think this to be causing the extra heat though.

Here are the plugs. Cheapy champions. Only around 300 miles on them, got them to get it running. I have since(and hour ago) put in the NGK E7ES. And they are not right for my car. I figured Cooler plug to cooler temps, but very much the opposite. I'll put in the B6ES' now and try it out.

They look kinda lean...

That's because 250 of those 300 miles where when the car was running an AFR between 14-15.5,way lean. When I pull the B7ESs in there now, they should look better.

The plug type has nothing too do with running rich or lean

I realize that. What I ment was those plugs were in before(leaner) I tuned it. Where as the B7ESs have only been exposed to the current(richer) state of tune.

Gotcha, sorry about that, I didn't realize that it had been retuned.

are you fouling the colder plug? (b7es?) im running 7's with a CDI setup...

sounds like you dont have enough ignition to use those....

try the 6's

Yea Aaron, definatly fouled. I can't get a decent picture of them(20 trys), but by the end of the 15 mile ride the car wouldn't run below 4000 rpms.
I put in the 6s and it ran better. I wonder since I'm stuck with Bus(low compression) pistons if I should try an even hotter plug like the B5ES

so what does NGK reccomend for a bus? (seems like the logical question you should be asking )

asked raby? FAT? Mark in Canada?

Good point. Acording to the Advance auto parts website. A 76 2.0 campmobile ran a BR5ES. So mabye I should be running a hotter plug

You running full engine tin including the flaps? Thermostat and cable working?

I would richen things out a bit. On the race car when it had the 2.8L four we ran an A/F of 12:1 at full throttle and slightly less at half throttle. What cam is in the engine, I did not get a chance to check the previous post? If it has extra valve overlap that can cause the temps at the plug to go up some if you run extra advance. If the advance is retarded a bit the shown head temps might come down but the exhaust valves will get way hotter.

Richen it up a hair to 13.5-13.6 and are the air deflectors present underneath?

Is all of the holes in the tin plugged and engine surround including the bottom pieces present?

Hi

Are you running a Cat convertor ? A partly blocked exhaust will make temps, head and oil climb under excactly the conditions you describe. I have seen simple mufflers (cheap one) rise temperatures in non P cars.
Whats up with the Buss pistons? Maybe the design of the piston tops are causing a problem?

Good luck
Later

Make sure the air deflectors under the engine are in good shape.

Add timing. retarded timing will make the engine run hot.

Yep, add about 4 degree's extra advance. Those bus piston have turned it into a low CR pig and it's messing with the D-jets head.

You have to get the A/F values to around 12.5 at WOT and 13.5 cruise. This alone can drop your temps by 50F.

Do you know what your CR is?

And get those POS plugs out of there!

Thanks a ton for all the support guys. How did anyone keep their cars on the road before this non-club

I just pulled out the Sound pad, and it didn't make too much of a difference, but dam that weighs a lot. Anybody want a firewall sound pad

I also reset the dwell & timing. Turns out it was way off, strange considering I set it spot on less than 300 miles ago. The dwell had moved to around 60deg.
I bumped the timing up to 31degs and it runs a lot better. I was accually able to use 5th. It wouldn't go above 360 unless I intentionally lugged it. Although, I was running it without the engine lid on, so that could account for some of the extra cooling.
It seems to hesitate and buck below 2500rpms, and their were some deposits on the plug. I'm wondering if the NGK B6ES are still too cool for my setup.
I'm thinking of trying the B5ES and setting the timing to 27degs, but that will have to wait till tomorrow. I feel I'm getting closer. Thanks again guys

DITCH THE RAIN TRAY!

No can do. I drive it in the rain from time to time

try the 5 series plug.....

low compression pig dog......
what does flaps say to run for busses?

you essentially have a bus motor

Go to the B5ES plugs.

There is really a minimal difference in having the rain tray in and not having it in. Now if you leave the lid off all together you will get some real cooling.

That's what I'm afraid of. That my improvement came more from the lid being removed, than from my dwell & timing changes.
Tomorrow. I'll have the B5ES plugs, I'll will play with the timing more, and referance it against the O2 sensor.

on a side not, you can order NGKs from Advance Auto parts for $1.77 a pop, three sets of plugs has only run me around $21. Now of only a could find a great deal on some 2liter jugs.

I'm thinking Brett was joking there. While removing the lid and rain tray can contribute to somewhat better cooling, you don't need to remove that stuff to get normal temps.

I don't run a rain tray. I ran a while without the engine lid. That's all fun (and loud), but... If you have temp trouble with both in place, something else is wrong.

I just want you to find the real solution instead of pulling off body parts to make things work.

Now if you find the real solution, and pulling of the tray and lid helps even more: Then heck ya... strip it if you like.

Yes, I was not suggesting it as a full time option. It works if you may be racing or something like that. Nut on a daily level running with or without the rain tray really don't make that much difference.

I forget who was doing the testing but someone from the rennlist did temp tests with and without the rain tray and without the temps actually went up.
Stock 2.0 d-jet.

Yep fix the real problem...bandaid's don't help

Ok, I'm starting to tire out over here. I've tried a bunch of combos, and am still not getting what I want.
I tried the B5es and timing set to 22, 27, 31, and 37 degrees of advance an I had a popping all but the 22, with which the car would only idle.
I switch back to the E6ES with the timing set 33degs advanceand I saw the coolest temps yet. On the highway the temp accually started coming down a tad in 5th around 70. to like 340
But their is a staidy miss at idle and part throttle is inconsistant.
Two of the E5ES looked new when I pulled them and two looked like this.

an idea that just popped into my head is, could the popping be cause by a bad PCV valve? I back dated my Oil Breath last time I was home and didn't change the PCV valve in the breather. Now I noticing oil around the breather chimeny. Looks likes it coming out the Dip stick. I never day this problem with my late style(75-76)breath. Oil cam out the other side of the engine instead
I'm going to change it ether way. Just wondering if I might be chasing my tail because of my PCV

Well, the PCV didn't help, and I am deffinatly chasing my tail.
B6ESs and the timing set to 29degrees and I'm still getting a lot of backfiring on overrun. Below 2000rpms it's like listening to a microwave finishing a bag of popcorn, pop pop......pop.......pop pop
Will this ruin my engine?
I figure I'll pull the plugs tonight, wire brush them(incase I fouled them with all the timing changes today), and tomorrow give it one more try at 29 degrees.
If it still sounds like I'll move it back to 27deg and give up.
I'm a huge fan of D-jet, but I'm with all I've read and tried, I'm starting to feel I may never be able to get it to run right.

You need more fuel. Are you ready to start adjusting the MPS?
:PERMAGRIN: Joe

I do not want to open that can of worms. I accually lowed the fuel pressure from 32psi to 29 because I though that was contributing to the fowled plugs.

Do you have the flaps underneath the car? If not get them back on the car.

The flaps that hang down off the firewall and swirl air up into the engine, Yes.
The flaps that are triangular and the look like part of the HEs blocking access to the thermostat, No.

My basic testing on my car showed a lowering of oil temps of 5 degrees on the same day running the same route in the summer with removeal of the rain tray.

Having the bottom tins on helps too as the hot exhausted air is directed to the rear of the car instead of being sucked forward or upward. I haven't done any testing on these tins thou.