After looking at several of the latest ideas for engine removal devices I begain thinking of another option. What if I had a set wheels that were bolted to the engine or maybe the engine crossbar that I fabricated? I rounded up some angles and some caster wheels and came up with a plan. I welded 3/16" x 2" x 2" angles to a 1/4" plate that I bolted the caster wheel to. I first bolted the angles through the crossbar than I removed the engine. Once the engine was out of the car I removed the crossbar and welded the small angles to the bar. Than they are always in the correct location and makes things much easier. Here is how it works...

1. Jack up the car so it is level.
2. Bolt the angles with the wheels to the crossbar.
3. Place the floor jack under the front of the engine.
4. Place my cheap tranny jack under the tranny.
5. Unbolt the engine crossbar bolts and the rear tranny bolts and lower the engine to the ground.
6. Jack up the car high enough that the engine can clear the car.
7. Roll it out.
8. Have a cold imported beer.

BTW, I removed the engine from start to finish in 45 minutes by myself. Could have been quicker if I had all the tools laid out and took the body sides off. (4 engine bolts, 4 wires at the dizzy, cl/th cables, fuel line, 2 wires to the starter, 2 axles, shift rod)

Action shots...

You are a GENIUS - that is pretty cool.

Thanks, I should go on the silly inventors show on TV.

Simple,and effective.


You can't ask for anything beter than that.

Big thumbs UP!




Ron

I'm amazed at how damned cool that is... You should market them!

-Rusty

Way to go, Paul. But, I think you need to drill some holes in the angle iron to lighten 'em!

BTW, I was looking at the cooling fan on your engine. Have you removed some of the fan blades? It looks like one blade was removed from each side of the connecting webs.

Thanks, Rusty. Simple is best. I'd be happy to take someone's money for something they can do themselves.

Sharp eye. I had a blade break off so I broke the others off to match. I cleaned them up with a file. Not he best situation but it works for now.

I know someone would say something about adding the angles/weight to the car.

I did something similar. My casters were bolted in place using the holes in the end for engine mounting. I did have a problem. The rubber mounts wanted to fold over. Next time I intend to use 2 casters. One will be in front and one behind the bar. Even though the mounts wanted to fold, the setup works great. It is a lot more stable this way then balancing the motor on a floor jack. It also a lot lower making it easier to get the motor out from under the car.

Nice Idea!
What about a second set of dedicated casters that fit the transaxle mount? Then the whole thing can be rolled around/stored easily without chance of it falling off that scissor table you have under the trans..

How much do those things weigh?

I welded jackstands to the bottom of my car.

The little tranny table is pretty stable. But I had thought of mounting wheels off of the 2 studs for the muffler bracket.

I just leave my engine in the car. seems to work much better that way

Nanner Nanner Nanner

I took it out to adjust the valves.

With this? You have to drop the engine to do the valves?

Hmmmmmmmm

I would think you could rebuild the engine w/o dropping it

I also had an oil leak problem that needed to be addressed. My engine has a bus case and the block off plate over the bus dipstick location was leaking.

Cool idea. Maybe you could add four of these.

Don't get me started....

This is what I use for a jack...

Electric impact wrench and a sissor jack. Pull the trigger and the car goes up and down. Beats the hell out of pumping a floor jack.

lazy ass LOL

Quicker 'em aluminum racin' jaxs.