Hey all,

Anyone out there have experience with European Race Headers (4-cyl) interfering with the shift linkage on a side shifter?

Started mounting up the header last night (yes, the motor is -actually- in the car now), and found the shift linkage was rubing pretty hard against the header in one spot. Has anyone encountered this? And if so, how did you fix it?

I'm tempted to just break out the BFH and persuade the shift linkage to be somewhere else, but I don't want to fuch up the shifting by bending the linkage in a wrong way.

Any help?

Thanks!

-Josh2

sorry, no help here.... but i've heard of this before. mine gets close, but doesn't hit.

i'd try re-aligning the shifter before the BFH.

Mine is very close but no hit. I have more problems with the tuna can sump clearance.

Really. Well, no problems with the tuna can here. Hmm.... Well, I talked with George, and he suggested loosening everything up and retightening everything all the way up to the muffler, and see how that works. After that, well it just might come down to...

Although George did offer to send me another set in exchange for this one. Thing is, the stub pipes are already matched to the heads and everything is already ceramic coated...

-Josh2

I had this, or an older version on my old race car.
I still have the shift bar...the bar that runs from the firewall back was bent in the middle so it hung down a bit farther....all told it looks like it was bent maybe 3/4 of an inch...

I try to explain.
there is a section of the bar from the motor mount bar to the mounting tab on the tranny, that section was heated and bent to clear the header...
If you do this you need to make sure that both ends remain on the same plain that they started...so where the bar mounts into the tranny is still basically level...if you know what I mean.

there is enough play in the end of the bar, where is mounts to the shifter console. linkage at the tranny to do this..
Do not bend anything while it is mounted..you will break the mouting tab on the tranny, or you might break the internal shifter fork, or teeth inside the tranny with one good hit..

I did not do this solution, and have since sold the car,, but the basic idea was sound, and posed no problems...

Rich

no interferance with mine.....

actually, doing that has fixed some alignment problems with the muffler that i've had before...

no problems here....

shielding the clutch cable turned out to be a problem tho...

my old one didn't either josh..
but I think its minor enough you can overcome it.

loosening everything is a good idea
and a simple pull or two in the vise should easily yield an extra half inch if needed.

Awesome that you are so close.
any chance you can put 2-3 hours into it this weekend and fire it up?
you deserve that reward!

brant

I had some slight interference with the Tangerine piece too. I just bent the rod a little more to acentuate the bends that are already there.
Trick is to keep the front end of the bar on the same axis as the back end of the bar.

I'm thinking of locking down the ends of the rod in a large vise (one on each end), to make sure the ends don't move relative to each other, then....

-Josh2

Anyone else have experience with these? Is the BFH my best option?

-Josh2

I have installed something like 20+ of the "George" headers with NO issues over a 12+ year period.

I think your shift rod is bent, or something else is out of alignment.

Do you some custom front/rear engine tranny mount?


B

The shift rod is tubular. I would flatten out the area of interference instead of trying to change the overall shape.

Hmmm... I have have welty tranny mounts. Maybe a problem?

-Josh2

i have welts...

and a euro header....

no issues here mang....

Does anybody hame a pic of the european racing header? Either in or out of the car. Preferably in so I can see the potential interferance. I am looking at purchasing one.
Nick

see my blog....

click the big name tag under my post