It appears the more I "fix" my 914, the worse it runs...

Started with a very poorly running 71 1.7, with tons of fuel leaks. I've replace all the leaky fuel lines, and added the ignition kit from pelican (points, wires, dis cap, rotor, plugs, condensor and coil). It would run after that, but pretty poorly (The timing has never correctly been set).

I set the timing, but the mark would move within a 1/4" area, so it wasn't 100%. I replaced both vacum lines to the dist.

Since then it has begun running worse. I went old school and begain setting the timing by ear, and ended up pulling the dist. out, replacing the condensor, wiping it with a rag, and putting it back in. There is a possibility that I put it in 180 degrees off.

After that, It would run, and idle around 1200 and 2500 depending on where I had the timing set. Once it warmed up (it's fuel injected) it would drop to 500 rpms or so, and idle poorly.

Now it won't start at all, just turns over quickly with no hint of a catch. I've moved the dist. into several timing settings, with no luck. Over the last couple of days, it's done this, where one day it won't start, I poke around and then it begins running for another day or so.

Mps will hold a vacum of 15psi for over a minute

now the questions:

1. Would the car start and run at all with the dist in 180 degrees off?
2. Where should I start diagnosing? Up to now I've just been guessing at stuff.

Not likely

You could have a bad ignition switch... check that there is power at the coil when cranking....quick check...the generator light should come on when you turn the key to on and stay on while cranking....sounds like you are up against more than one problem...

I'm kinda in the same boat. Check for spark and fuel first. I have a dummy relay that I can depress in the engine compartment and hear it run and to pressurize the system when trouble shooting. I sprayed a little starting fluid in the air cleaner and it fired right up. So my thinking is old gas (it's been sitting awhile) I'll drain the gas and relocate my fuel pump at the same time.

Maybe this is a stupid question... but have you adjusted the valves? Our engines can be very erratic if the valves are not set correctly.

-Rusty

180 off it would pop and sputter but it wouldn't run. Lawrence is right, one tight

valve and it screws up your whole day.

I had a car that only started every other day.The power leads from the starter motor were worn away.Juice was only getting through intermittently!

Nope, haven't even attempted. I'm worried that if I open up too many problems at one time everything will snowball. You think I should give it a try? It'll be my first time setting the valves

purchase new valve cover gaskets before you start on the valves. the first time is a bear(was for me). block out a 1/2 day and don't get frustrated.

k

Well, I got it running!
I pulled out the new coil, and put the old one in - cranked it, and it was a no go. I then put the new coil back in, and in the process broke off one of the wires that connect to the coil. Crimped on a new terminal, cranked for about 10 seconds, and she fires right up. Runs strong now. I'm thinking that I'll buy some nice connectors and solder them on.

Now I have to figure out why it wants to idle around 2500 rpm

Soldering is one of the LEAST desirable ways to attach connectors to wire. Use good quality non insulated connectors and the proper tools. The Cap'n

The Auxiliary Air Regulator will raise the idle when working properly, then when your car warms up,it will drop your idle. Here is Brad Anders site. Great info.
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/

I've got a cheapo crimper tool, and have never had good success crimping on connectors. Is there any reason that soldering is frowned on? Perhaps it doesn't like flex and motion?

I'll do the crimp on thing, but I'm just curious.

I think your going to find the soldering joints are not flexable enough, they will fail after awhile.