I've taken the plunge, sent $$$ to Mark, and ordered SDS for my 914. I expect with mail delays to the great white north, for delivery to be 3-4 weeks out, but thats O.K. I'll be updating this thread with photos and comentary about the install. Here's the starters-

Motor is a mostly stock 2.0, euro pistons and cyls, and a little head shaving to up the c/r. Motor was built by Brad Mayeur about 50K ago. Stock cam, valves. Now for the good stuff. I purchased from Jake some TWM ITB's, manifolds, air cleaners. The car was running a Kerry Hunter exhaust and super trapp exhaust.

The SDS system will be a fuel and ignition/coil pac system, so I'll be dropping the motor to more easily axcess the front for the hall sensor install. Along the way I'll be replacing the engine shelf to engine tin rubber seals, and ordering/installing some of Chris Foley's replacement fuel lines.

Last night I prepped the motor for the drop, and found some additional things to fix. Theres a big suprize. NOT. While the firewall and shift rod guide bushings were fine, no more than 1/16 play between the rod and bushing, the ball cup bushing was, well, GONE! There was the bottom half of the bushing still in the cup, but where the ball on the shift linkage would contact the nylon, it was worn/broken off into pieces. No wonder it ground a little... and there was a torn motor mount, and I had a couple head studs stick in their EZ outs, and the whole mess backed out of the head, rather than the nut coming off the stud, or the stud coming out of the EZ out...

I won't bore you with photos of the drop, we've all done that a hundred times, but here are some photos of the mock up of the ITB's and a spair coil pac floating around the shop, done to get more accurate measurements for the harness to be constructed/supplied by SDS. The wires for the injectors and sensors will run across the back trunk firewall, under all the new fuel lines, and attach to the back firewall with some neat "tree" style zip ties I found, where the plastic "tree" will go into 2 holes in the back trunk firewall, and tuck the wires up and out of the way.

For the crank sensor, I've got a pully coming from a 914 A/C car to test fit. I may use that, or I may have a machinist friend make an aluminum disc to mount the trigger mags to. I'll have to get it appart and see what it all looks like, and what will work best.

Now, some photos-

ITB left

ITB right

I forget how long my injector harness is, but the plug in is dead center so I'll measure it and we will make it a hair longer. Then it should go agaist the back firewall nicely.

Also see if you can find a crappy old ashtray and copy my mount for the programmer, it works perfectly.

Here's the link to my install so you have it handy

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=5396

BTW your aircleaner is crushing because you're cranking it down to tight, use a bit of the weak loctite and leave them a little loose.

Good guess on the aircleaner, but in reality, it was due to un-supervised nephews loose in the garage... generally, you'll NOT find toys on the workbench... thanks guys. I'll be giving you a call tonight to discuss the harness lengths and some other details. Any sign of the $$$ yet?

ooohhhhhwwww!!!!!!!!!

What did the "TWM ITB's, manifolds, air cleaners" $et you back? And for that matter, the SDS setup from Mark?

Looking forward to the pics of the install. I may be heading that direction myself before too long.

Do the ITBs include new injectors or do you use your stock injectors? Also, will the ITBs you purchased work as well if you increase your displacement? Looks like a nice setup, anxious to see the results.

I'd make the injector harness around 43" to 44" if you want it to run along the rear firewall. This is to the longest wire, 3" spacing.

You will also need:

1- 1 to 5 amp in-line fuse to the ECU
1- 10 amp in-line fuse to the injector harness.
2- 15 amp in-line fuses to the pump and coil pack

I also have a 10 amp in-line fuse to the pump relay, but I don't think it's really needed.

He's using 30cc/min Ford redtops (bosch) I believe for injectors.

why'd you choose TWM over Jenveys?

just curious if quality on one is better...

Not to be all mystical about the whole thing, but you can talk to Jake and Mark and make your best deal...

The injectors are indeed the 30# ford "redtops". I sourced them from EBAY, from a seller of injectors. They are a flow matched set. Injectors were availible from Jake, but not part of the "package" of stuff I ordered from him. And no, I don't recall the cost. Do any of us really keep track of that anymore?

I had Jake size the ITB's for up to a 2316. Nice number, huh? They will probably be a little large for the 2.0, but the long term plans are: Get the SDS up and running. Learn the tuneing. Don't blow up the motor. (notice how the ITB's at the sides, the coil pack in the front, and all the fuel system/injection harness lines across the back firewall leave a really big open area in the middle of the engine bay?) Add a turbo (and I know, I KNOW, you can't turbo a 914) and subaru WRX intercooler in a season or 2, then see of the motor blows. The WRX intercooler has one inlet and 2 outlets for the charge air path. Should work out pretty well with ITB's, and give some snappy throttle response. If it blows up, maybe a 2316? If not, it'll be a pretty cool little auto x car. And yes, for you SCCA types, I also know a turbo'd 914 will be underweight for SM2, and way under prepared for XP, but I'm building the car for me, not the SCCA, and if I want a world beater for SCCA, I'll drive my friends car, which I'm helping him develop. A fat performance 3.0 4 cyl, 1675# or so WITH driver... attaching a photo below of me driving HIS car-

1) $$$$ less
2) Its what Jake was selling that day, he beat any other $$$ on the TWM's I could find, and its good to support those who support us.
3) I liked the way the injector supply rail was set up to connect to the TB.

David I got your PM and I'll look it over tonight. The cheque is still in the mail, I'll let you know as soon as it gets here, mid-week most likely.

If you don't have an old ashtray for your programmer mount, I think I have one.

Daaaaavid! I have mail!

Figure out the final on your harness.....

Email sent.

Oy...

Please, then just tell me how much you think this might cost you to get the whole mess installed and the 914 running. Please, I don't want to know anyone's pricing secrets or anything so dastardly. I just want to know how long I have to save my duckets to do something like that.

I don't know what the exchange rate is dollars to duckets these days, but as best as I can recall, here's the damage: bought the ITB's, manifolds, air cleaners from Jake around a year ago with a small windfall from work that Mrs Me did not get her hands on. I think the total was around $750. Injectors off EvilBay were maybe $100. Add another $100 or so for the linkage from some place in CA, I could dig it up if anyone wants it once I get the install photos up and you all can see it. SDS can run you anywhere from around $900 shipped for fuel only, to maybe $1400 shipped for the crank fire/coil pac version. Add more for optional relays. Add more for a wideband to better tune it and not blow up your motor. My SDS bill was around $1700. Add lots of labor and beer to help pay off your fabricator, and more $$$ for all the other little "while I'm in here" things to fix, new plugs and wires, fuel pressure regulator, fuel lines, clamps, filter, dyno time after you've got it 80-90% tuned, etc, and theres your total.

So in round numbers, not including pending fabrication and the "while I'm in there" stuff, I'm at $2650. I expect when it hits the streets the total will be closer to 3k. Will it be worth it? We'll see, looking at it this way its awful expensive HP at this point. But. If a 2316 comes to pass, all I need is the long block. If a turbo happens, I mount it on the end of the kerry hunter collector, source a scavange pump for the oil return, add an EvilBay subi intercooler, and for maybe $500 more I've got the turbo thing going. Safely, as the tuneing will be totally adjustable with great MFG support. $2650 is not the end of this project, just the beginning.

Thank You!

System ordered

Weekend update: Slow progress with relatives in town. Got my brother in law to help with the engine drop, so thats done. Discovered BOTH motor mounts were sheared. And who says 914's got no power? Started taking tin off the engine to scope out the hall sensor mounting options. Got the new engine room rubber seals in. Was thinking of trying this with the motor in, but since it had to come out, no better time than now. I would think it COULD be done with the engine in, but I wouldn' t want to be the guy to try... Ordered some of C.F.'s fuel lines, he's a week or 2 out on those.

If someone can school me on how to load multiple photos on one posting, please do.

Now, some photos.

Dork brother in law messing around with motor mounts.

new engine rubber is in.

got some parts... these are pulley's from a/c cars, there are 2 different designs, one a bit larger, lighter, but the "edge" of the pulley where magnets would have to mount is angled, the other pulley is a bit smaller, a heavier cast piece, but has a nice flat edge for drilling/mounting the magnets. There is also a "shorty" distrubuter plug that Dave-O made and sent. Thanks!

close up of the pulleys and their differences. I'm going to start looking things over with an eye to useing the pulley with the flat magnet mounting surfaces, for obvious reasons. If I need a larger diameter pulley to get the magnets closer to where the hall sensor will end up, I may just use the larger ones as templates, and have an aluminum disc made up. I'll post more when I know more.

System shipped yesterday, it should be in my hands on Monday.
FYI I ordered the system last friday and they are busy as hell right now, pretty good turn around (for a custom wire system) I'd say.

BTW if you mount the trigger wheel about the same as mine those pulley's should work just fine. Size doesn't matter (to a point) but you have to install the magnets spot-on.

Goodies have arrived!!! Bad news is that I'll be away from home and projects for the next 3 weeks with work, weddings, auto cross events in borrowed cars, family reunions..... this is gonna drive me nuts!

Here are the bits and pieces-

Took the last 2 days off work, yesterday was slow, as I was bushed from 3 weeks on the road, but today significant progress was made...

The main SDS ecu has been mounted, all wires run. Coil pac mounted and connected.

A couple more views of the ECU install.

Here is a bunch of wireing, relays, distribution block... the relays and fuses have long enough leads to be pulled up over the battery to make them easier to work with if a fuse or relay goes bad and needs replacement when the engine is NOT out, and axcess is not this easy.

Just a few more for tonight. After this was all done, I turned the key. Not much happened, as there is no motor, but the SDS fired up, the display worked, the sending units sent, and the ecu responded. Engine temp, air temp, TPS all registered and were reactive, as was the control knob. The hall sensor was not installed on the engine, but I did plug it in and run the magnets across it, and it showed "magnet seen" on the screen, another good sign.

Still lots to do- tomorrow's goals will be to get the wires run for the WMS wideband, running from the dash display to the wideband O2 sensor, and connecting into the SDS system along the way. Also drilling a hole in the dash and finishing up the wireing for the VDO cyl. head temp gauge. If energy continues, I've got the rest of Chris Foley's fuel lines to install and a new, bigger fuel pump. If I can get all that off the list, that'll be a good day. Still remaining: pushrod tube seals, of course check and set the valves after taking the rockers off, and tear off the fan to mount the pulley from the prior photos, and mount the hall sensor. I'll check the clutch while the tranny is off, new shift bushings and motor mounts, install that lightweight starter I bought last december... and so it goes.

TheWMS wideband is in and tested. I only need to hook up the actual wideband sensor once engine/trans/exhaust system is back in. Put some battery to the dash mount display, and all the right lights and test codes ran.

Installed it where the cig lighter goes. The first photo shows the display pressure fit into the cig lighter, just to see how it looks. Second photo, I have pulled out the lighter and used a Dremel tool with a metal cutting bit to square off the bottom of the cig lighter hole, so I can better center the display on the dash. Makes some nice shiney metal bits that go everywhere.

Ran the wires back to the engine by way of the driver side heat duct. The WMS bundle looked to be well protected, but there were 2 wires from the SDS ecu that needed to be attached to the wideband, so I ran those thru some 3/8 plastic tubing, then stuck the whole mess up the heater tunnel. At the ends are my 2.99 fernco plumbing caps, rubber, with a hole drilled thru them. Once the motor is in, and all final lengths set up, I'll add some black rtv at the back to prevent any water getting in at the hole. I'll also squirt some in the end of the plastic tube to seal it as well. I plan to leave an inch or 2 of plastic tube coming out into the engine area, and if I need to send any other wires up front, I can cut off the bit with the rtv in it to open the tube up again.

Finished install. Looks good to me. Was really a snap in some ways, as the cig lighter provided switched power and ground right in the area I needed for the WMS wideband. 3M double sided foam tape secured the display to the dash. Just needed a couple make spade connectors. Also got the wires for the cyl head temp gauge strung from the engine area up the tunnel, using another grommet from some addl wires that came up front for oil sending/pressure gauges installed a couple yrs ago. Tomorrow will be the cutting of a big hole in the dash on the other side of the steering wheel for the cyl head temp gauge. And there is still those fuel lines if I get done quickly on the gauge install.

Looks good Dave! I'm a bit jealous of all your fancy new gadgets. I'm going to take my 914 with an AFI system (archaic fuel injection) and beat up on some punk kids in Appleton tomorrow.

Have you dug into the fan housing yet?

Dave-O, have not gotten in there yet. I wanted to get all with wiring done first, and save some of the fab work for... you? I know you like that kind of stuff- whatcha doing next weekend? Actually, I wanted to get all the wiring done with the engine out, and the fuel lines, as once the pushrod tube seals and sensor mount are done, I'm gonna REALLY want to get it all back togather, and having to put time in on that other stuff would drive me mad with the engine done, but now, all that other stuff is still kinda fun and part of the process.

I did power up the SDS ecu last night- everything looks good. The controller scrolled thru all the screens in the correct order, I hooked up the ET (engine temp) and AT (air temp) as well as the TPS, and all registered correct values. The TPS value changed as the throttle body was open/shut. I was pretty stoked after that little test run. I wanted to stay up all night and just play with the controller, just to get the hang of it.

You ran great last weekend- that 41 with me in your STS2 car was fun. That chick in the Mazdaspeed Miata was a cutie- to bad she: 1) drives a miata, 2) has a boyfriend with an Elise, and 3) I happen to be very married. Would mine, with the SDS and Keizer/710's been in the 40's? 39's? Who knows. It really made me want mine back on the road/track again. Go and pick on some ricers, and give me a call with the results. FTD? Top 5? Top 10?

Don't be to jealous, yours runs. And runs well. You've got many runs that I owe you in mine for the help you've been.

More progress, slow but, well, sure? Got the cylinder head temp gauge mounted in the dash. Still need to get the wires hooked up, but the lines from the engine to the dash are run, just need to connect to the gauge, and need to run a ground and dimmer switched power to the light. Here's some pics- first one is the location, second is the big hole saw for the big hole. I first located center for the hole, and traced onto the vinyl the hole saw size opening. I then used a sharp knife to cut the vinyl out of the hole. Center punched the metal, drilled a starter hole, and had at it with the hole saw. I drilled the hole out with the saw in reverse. Didn't want to risk the sharp edge of the teeth snagging some vinyl, and also wanted some control of the hole and how quickly it broke thru- didn't want to twist the wires behind the hole into a rats nest of problems.

Once the basic hole was done, I used the dremel and metal cutting bit to smooth out the rough edges, and open the hole a little, as the hole saw was 2", the gauge 2 1/16. Grind a little off, test fit, grind a little more for the perfect fricton fit. First pic is the finished hole, next one is the view of the gauge with the wheel on, from my eye level perspective. Off to the right is the WMS wideband display.

I also took a lunch break and put the wire wheel on the drill, and shined up the a/c pulley that will hold the magnets for the crank fire ignition. Just a bit nicer to work with clean parts. Below are before and after photos.

Dave-O, coming off a 4th place pax finish in his STS2 car, is possibly coming over this weekend to get the last of the fabrication work done, and hopefully turn the key... I think between the 2 of us its do-able in 2 days. We'll find out.

Sorry, couldn't resist, a close up of the gauge.

Lots of progress today- the fearless fabricator arrives, bringing big tools. not sure about the legality of transporting tanks of gas inside a passinger vehicle, but it was buckled up.

we hulked the motor onto the workbench for new push rod tubes, seals, and a valve adjustment.

and then moved on to test fitting the pulley that will receive the trigger magnets.

fabrication time-

Lets weld!

making the sensor mount- we first tried some 2" x 1" rectangle stock, but it didn't give enough set back between the sensor and the pulley. Solutions included having a flat disc machined to match the mounting holes for the pulley, or make a welded box section that would give the proper clearances for the sensor and magnets, once mounted on the pulley. Having welding equipment, but no lathe, we chose option "B".

test fitting our creation...

close ups of the sensor mount. It has nuts welded on the inside for the mounting to the fan shroud screws, which still need to be counter sunk a little.

In addition to the push rod tubes/seals, valve adjustments, sensor mounting, we got Chris Foley's fuel lines in. This was just too easy. With the motor out, I'd bet once we got the tank pulled, it took us less than 1/2 an hour. We pulled the plastic out, stuffed the metal in. We ended up with one guy in back pushing the lines in, a sesond guy in the car getting them lined up with the grommet at the front firewall. Again, what a product. Went in super easy, looks great. Thanks Chris. Anyone wanna buy some slightly used plastic lines? (just kidding)

And here are the new lines in place.