So in my quest to begin assembling parts for the budget 1.7 -> 1.9 upgrade, a nice finnish fellow on the bird board hooked me up with some cylinders for free.

he thought they were 2.0 cylinders out of a 912 but since he couldnt find a part number I was skeptical, but free is free right....

I got them today. They look pretty good but I'm not sure what I have here. The only part number I can find is "93/R2" .



A couple questions:

1) I am now assuming these are 93mm cylinders. Aftermarket? Anyone got a clue?

2) They are in very good shape, no scores or anything. Okay to bore out to 96mm?

3) whose got some cheap 1.8 heads for me that I can rebuild??


Thanks in advance for the help with my "hobo 1911cc" project!

sorry forgot pic

What does the bore measure? If it's 93mm, then--TAA DAA!!! --they're 93mm cylinders.

How does the pattern of holes look in comparison to a stock cylinder or to the stud spacing on your motor? If it fits, then it's a Type IV cylinder. The only 93mm Type IV cylinders I know of were stock 1.8 ones. (BTW, those look "about right" for stock type cylinders.)

Assuming they are stock 1.8 93mm cylinders, they're fine to hone out to 96mm.

--DD

get er done...

see if you can find some 2l heads

a 1.8 is 93mm, and a 2.0 is 94mm... bore em out

wow I come back from a drive and the whole site changed...nice!


I haven't had a chance to measure the bore yet, but its good to know I have the green light if they are 1.8 93mm cylinders.


As for the 2.0 heads...thats the plan but it also seems not bad to get a set of cheap 1.8 heads, rebuild 'em, ported and polished up real nice, increase the compression ratio isn't the worst thing right?


Its wierd, but I am kind of into the whole adventure of finding the solid cheap parts and letting this thing unfold in a zen like fashion.

It may cost me my job however...

If you are going to spend all that money on a set of heads, get a set of 2.0's.

Put an add in the classifieds somebody will have an extra set.

Lets talk about the real world difference of these heads.

I know the 2.0 liter heads flow more out of the box, but the cost of entry is higher...and they are all cracked somewhere...

The 1.8 liter heads have been used by racers for years due to more material to port...

the plug location...ok, a bit of an improvement (no first hand experience, just what I have heard) ...10 hp on a street car...is that worth the price of buying and rebuilding a set of 2.0 liter heads, for a street car that will be built as a 1911cc motor...

1.8 liter heads are out there for alot less money, can be purchased and bolted on with zero work, or rebuilt stock for 2-300 bucks by rimco...
Rimco price
$105 per head.
That is with no welding.
The real killer cost of rebuilding these heads is the welding...
I can go to Rimco, or several local guys that can do the guides and the seats..but they dont weld...

So, you can buy 1.8 liter heads for little money, get a valve job, guides etc for short money, no welding...then get them on a flow bench and have them ported correctly, and all for less money than a set of stock rebuilt 2.0 liter heads...

Remember to goal of this...a 1911cc motor in a streetcar... not a high revving special purpose motor...

Rich

I got a set of 1.8 heads for ya!!!

Also a set of the intakes, and a pair of webbers.

the intakes are or the 2.0 variety, and have been drilled to also fit the 1.8 heads. So if you ever upgrade to 2.0's they will still work.

The carbs: 1 operates (I never ran it) the other is froze (this is the side that got wet).

I also have all the rest of the parts off of my (dead) 1.8 that measured out as a 1950. I'm guessing it was rebuilt at some point.

I'm getting a warm 2.0 with carbs so everyting is up for grabs.

the plot thickens....


ok so Rich's post begs the question:

Whats better for a streetcar...stock 2.0 heads or ported and polished 1.8 heads (without plug relocation)?


PM sent fitsbain

My 1911 had 1.7 heads with the registers milled to 94mm. looks to have had a bit of port work. I think your cam is where you'll make the HP.
My 1911 was easily as fast a 2.0 914-6 -very drivable.

i'm curious as to what $105 buys at Rimco. new compoments? presuming your valves are all serviceable and within spec? so you go to the hassle and use old springs, valves, keepers,...in your fresh engine? i find it hard to believe you're going to skip off for $105 ea when you start replacing items.

k

I agree, 105 is for machine work.

the rest can be purchased either from Rimco, or others....
So, if we assume that 105 is for machining, (bead blasting, inserting new guides, inserting new seats, standard 3 angle valve job...)

What is the other 800 dollars for when I hear people spending 1k to get a set of heads done...
At Rimco I can get them done for 210.

Rich

I have several sets of 2.0 heads that need some kind of repair (welding) you can have them for the price of some .php help and shipping.

They have been in the bed of my truck for 2+ years now.

Somebody said: 1911 not high rev'ing... umm it is a RPM engine. Big bore short stroke = RPM and lots of it.

My first T4 build was a 1911 with the European racing H grind cam and stock 2.0 heads with HD springs. It spun to 6500 RIGHT NOW and smoked the 205/50's with ease! << damn.. that was 1988 at age 18

Shoot me back an address and a UPS lable from 8494 Commerce Ave. Suite B SD CA. 92121


B

wow...thanks Brad. That could work out great for everybody.

PM on the way.

SCORE!

I had them looked at by a local machine shop guy. I know they need some welding. He didnt want to do it.


B

LOL....ummmm the welding is the $$ part right?

but worth it in the long run....

true...thats why i am into the deal either way. Question is, for the short term does this fit in with my zen rebuild project.


I'm sure you guys have heard of that guy who started with a paper clip and traded his way up to a year's rent in phoenix. That's kind of what I'm after....for the fun of it.