My programmer, mixture knob and air/fuel meter.

It's mounted to an old ashtray. I will remove it when I'm done programing.

ashtray

TPS mount

TPS on the TB

More pic's to come soon!

I have to punch a 1.5" hole in the firewall, where should it go?
Above or below the engine tin?

The ECU is going behind the passenger seat. Doesn't matter if I mount it inside or out I still have to drill a hole. I don't want to cut the SDS cables.

My junk yard dog engine is ready to go. I have about $400 canadian into it.
2.0, 1800 42X38mm valves, new rings, used Scat C-25 cam, new lifters and a bunch of spare parts. If it goes boom I don't care, but I hope it lasts the SDS learning curve.

It's about time you worked on your damn car !!!!! j/k

I'd punch the hole above the engine tray, maybe off to the side, but make sure it's in a flat surface so that you can use a good firewall connector:

Where do you get that? Cost?

I was just going to use a grommet.

Mark that looks really fine so far.

The multi-pin connector maybe / maybe not a good idea...

Good: It could be mounted to the firewall in sealant for a watertight connection

Bad: It introduces a full set of connections...which are susceptible to corrosion and vibration. If its a watertight cap then that takes some of the risk out of it.

Given any thought to just mounting the ECU inside the OEM brainbox for a sleeper look?

I like the SDS alot because it is programmable by a dedicated module that stays with the car. With laptop systems, who knows if your laptop will be supported in about X years...when you need it most.

Anxious to see your further results.

I thought about mounting it in an old box, but it would be a pain connecting/disconnecting the controller. Once you are done programing you lock it off and remover the controller.
Unless you want to run the progammer cable outside the car (not long enough but it is just an old style mouse cable) you have to still drill a hole. I'm going to see if I can get a PS2 cable adaptor, if I can (and it works) then I'll mount it your way and drill a smaller hole. SDS is warns that the ECU is not waterproof and they would rather you mounted it inside the cab.

Also the harness is far from stock looking, if I really wanted it to look like stock I would give it to you for the once over.

I have more pic's being developed as we speak, so more to come soon.

i used to know a place where you could get MIL-SPEC (military grade) surplus connectors up to like 3 inches- quite expensive tho and they only come in olive drab

My crank trigger disk, the magnets 180 apart are the trigger and the other one is the sync.

on the engine

the sensor mounted

All together now!

The backside

Had to plug the dizzy hole. Cut this off of an old POS dizzy and tapped and plugged with a 3/8 NPT plug.

I've done it now!

Me old 1.8 L-jet.

Bye-bye!!!!

My new JYD 2.0 SDS PEFI engine!

SDS ECU and coil.

How they plug in.

sorry I forgot the pic: the SDS ECU and coil.

The main harness, bit low tech but it is well made. Geoff could do a much better job for a "914 only" harness for sure.

Mark, that harness doesnt look so bad, it looks like the essentials are there. If you were to simply add an exterior casing to it (heat shrink tubing is best), it would protect the wires from heat and contaminants and make it last much longer. Rubber boots at each component would finish it up and it would be complete.

Will you be posting your programming anytime soon?

Dyno results?

Hi all!

I doubt if I will get it done this year, way too many issues. The end of the season is almost here and everyday that I may have had time to do a bit of driving it has been pissing rain. Also at the moment I'm just too busy to work on my own crap.


With the FI I still has a low RPM miss, I'm sure it's a connection/ground problem but it could also be my plug wires. I'm going to order a set of Magnacors once I'm happy with the install.

Also my MAP is bouncing around quite a bit, because of my Scat C-25 cam, so they say to install a .025-.035 MIG welder tip in the MAP hose. I may have relocate where the hose goes into the plenum.

Speaking of being happy with the install, I'm not. I was going to surprise Jeff with it all installed in the stock can. It does fit (pic soon) but the wiring harness is a PITA for engine R&R, You have to open the box every time you R&R. I think I'm going to relocate it back to my 1st choice behind the passenger seat. Also I want to move my coil pack over a bit.

My engine has a squeak on the 3/4 head. I think I shimmed the rocker spacers too tight. Also I want to install my 1.7 rockers, larger studs, pushrods, etc.

I have one almost bald tire with a shifted belt. I don't want to buy tires yet because I may change my tire/rim combo.

My teen was a standard 1.8, no sway bars, I thought it handled OK with the ol' 75hp. With my new engine I'm now pushing 110-115hp (guess, but I know it’s more than a stock 2.0) and now it’s as loose as shit. Plus my brakes need a good going through.

I’m using SSI exchangers and an Ansa exhaust (it was free), it works OK but I hate the rice look. I’d like a Triad or a Superflow set-up, we’ll see.

I need to re-do my breather set-up, I don’t like it.


Other than the low RPM miss issue it runs pretty good.

Some interesting notes from my programmer gauge function, at high RPM and WOT the duty cycle on my 2.0 injectors is rarely over 35%, cruse is 20% or less, I may try smaller scooby injectors next year. My intake air on my stock 2.0 D-jet intake is over 110 degrees F, the outside temp was never over 65F, and I might just relocate my intake. My engine temps never went over 180 degrees F.

I was trying to get everything done before the end of the season to get some seat time, but it’s not going to happen. I think I’ll pack it in, do some DWD shit over the winter and have it good to go for next spring.

Mark

They know this is a 914?





M