I have a suspect ignition switch in my teener. Haynes manual exploded view is so small it's worthless. Clymer only has proceedure for 914-6. Anybody have a good resolution exploded view of the steering column components and / or a step by step? Is the key/mechanical portion still available? I know the electrical switch still is. Does having AC complicate things?

Rob

Is it an early car or late? The later ones are pretty easy, I've taken mine apart several times. I've never done an early one and I think they are different. He is what I know:

It helps to remove the S/wheel. Look under the column, there is a the allen head bolt. Remove it and you can remove the cover plate that goes around the switch/lock. You can remove the lock cylinder and then remove the small slotted screw that acts as a set screw for the ig. switch. The switch slides out pretty easy.

I'm doing this from memory but I know most of the above is right.

It's about a 4-5 on a scale of 10.

Paul,

Thanks for the reply. 914 is a '74 (late). Would the under dash AC unit be in the way? I did one on a '74 VW Thing I had, but it's been so long ago I forgot how I did it.

For 72-74 cars, just follow the procedure in the Pelican Tech Article section.

70-71 have a different switch, and the 75-76 have a third kind. The article is only about halfway usedful for those years.

--DD

I took some pics from my '76. The switch is in the back and has screw that holds it in. I can talk you through it if you need help.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=53096&hl=

Thanks to all, especially Dave! That is a great how-to article and exactly what i was looking for! Going to try to replace it this weekend.


I had a feeling the AC was in the way. At least I won't have to remove the center console. BTW, where is the trip odometer reset knob usually relocated to when you have AC?

I have one other complicating factor. My 914 has a 930S steering wheel. Anybody know how to remove the horn pad on this wheel? I'd hate to bugger it up getting it off.


Click to view attachment

Piece of cake for a late one.

As a matter of fact I am forced to swap out the early steering column for a late unit.

Holy crap ya got to go all the way back to the U - joint at the fire wall

Then swap out the the upper column housing assembly and route the old wires though the new column Boy there is a lot of room in a late unit.
and about 2 lbs lighter.

Oh yea my early igition switch has finally given up there are no more rebuilds left in it.

AND ya got to figure out which terminals to use in a late switch for an Early car. 30, 50, 5 and X

Anybody know how to remove the 930S horn pad. I need to know this weekend.

Thanks!

It all is removeable with or

Google says:

The horn pad is attached to steering wheel by three pressure snaps at each spoke. Remove the pad by pulling away from the steering wheel

Thanks Doc, and all. Horn pad came of by simply tugging on it (very lightly at that). BTW, you don't have to remove the under dash AC unit to get the lower dash piece off. WHEW!

Had documentation that the ignition switch had been replaced and a visual under the dash confirmed this. By moving the multi-pin electrical connector (MPEC) around just slightly, I could get the switch to start the car. So I thought that maybe the connectors in the MPEC were loose. Pulled them out one by one and tightened them all up. Still acting up, won't start with the key. Bought a NOS switch and plugged it onto the MPEC (outside of the mechanical part), and it works like a charm. Pulled out the original switch and connected it to the MPEC (outside of the mechanical part), it works fine also. Hmmm

Installed NOS switch in lock assembly, it won't start the car unless you wiggle the MPEC around, just like the original one. Looks like the mechanical portion of the switch is somehow worn out. Key and tumblers seem to work OK, but center part that turns the electrical portion seems loose/sloppy.

Now the question is... how do you replace the mechanical portion of the switch? Or, is there some way to shim it, machine it, etc? I think I read somewhere that a VW mechanism is similar, just the tumblers are different. I also heard that the only way Porsche sells the mechanical portion is with a new (different) key. Any experience with this, threads with pics, etc?

Thanks!
Rob

I just did the same repair.... if the lock is worn you can get a new one (or a good used one) and have it rekeyed to yours. In my case it was the plug-in at the back of the switch that needed cleaning (each wire)

Here's my post on this from the bad grounds thread.........

Yesterday I decided to put the ignition starter switch PN #911 613 017 01 back in the collum. It was pulled last year when the repairs were done because of the fire and I have never put it back in.

For those of you who have never had the pleasure of doing this it involves pulling the steering wheel, horn and wiper stack and the bottom dash pad. In my case it also means pulling the gauge cluster that is mounted to the bottom of the dash pad.

The switch mounts to the bottom of the steering lock and is held inplace with a small set screw and then a group of wires in a plastic holder goes on to the bottom of the switch (plugs on). You turn your key and it unlocks the steering collum and then it turns the switch which lets the current flow to the wires and your car starts.

So I'm putting it back together and rule #1 of any repair comes into effect (Rule #1 is make sure everything works before putting it all back together) and I test it. Turn key. Car won't start. Fuel pump starts to buzz and ignition lights come on, but no Varoom Varoom. So I pull it all apart and turn the switch by hand and the car starts. Put it back together and nada. Pull it apart a third time, hand start it and it starts like a champ.

I take emery cloth to the spade ends on the switch. All nice and shiney. Put it back together and no start.

I then had to take all the wires out of the plastic keeper and clean each of them and put them back in for it to finally work like it should.

When doing this, pull the wires one at a time by forcing the tiny barb on the back of the terminal down with a jewlers screwdriver and the wire slides right out. Clean them with emery paper and slightly compress the sides with a pair of plyers. Test that you haven't compressed them too much by putting them on the proper end on the switch. Then push the barb back up so it holds the wire end in place when you put it back into the wire block and then do the next one.

Why one at a time? It lessens the chance that the wires will make accidental contact and start your car or short someting out.

I went to the Porsche dealer. He gave me the (VW) part# for the steering lock mechanism. part# 111 905 851 N. Anybody know of a source for this part#?

Dealer told me that the tumbler assembly part#914 347 903 02 is NLA. Any truth to this????

The FLAP store is supposed to have the VW steering lock with key tomorrow morning. I am going to take my old one with me and compare. Anybody have a pictoral on how to remove the VW tumbler assembly and install the Porsche tumbler assembly?

Download the PET from the Porsche site and look for illustration #903-20 it shows the exploded view of the parts.

http://www.porsche.com/canada/accessoriesa...-originalparts/

If your curent lock dosen't turn the switch you might need part # EN 013 042 2 It is a threaded pin that goes at the bottom of the lock assembly that turns the switch. I believe E means it's no longer available. Which means your back to looking for a used lock assembly. Unless it's broken or missing it usually is the plastic switch that wears out and not the metal part.

Wow, 930 wheel is on top of the sexy charts. Better than any MOMO I've ever seen. How much and where can I get one?

Grassyas!

I should have took pics and wrote down the disassembly process when I did mine. I think my wiper switch assy. is faulty. I may go in there and write you a procedural article.

JPB,

found 1997 receipt for 930S Steering wheel and adapter from PO. AJ racing Part Numbers, wheel - AJR 348 082, $240, adapter - AJR 347 085 00, $85. Remember, that is 1997 $'s. Probably double or triple that now.

Thanks Thack and all! I (think) I fixed it!

I kinda sorta remembered about pushing in the retainer spring to release the switch mechanism. After I removed it, I took the switch mechanism to the FLAP to compare it to a new (aftermarket) VW key switch. Kinda sorta similar but not similar enough for me to try swap tumblers, etc. Even the mechanism in the new VW switch was somewhat sloppy.

The only way I was able to get the starter to turn over with the assembly put together was to wiggle/push on the electrical portion of the switch. What this told me was there was too much slop in the mechanical portion to properly turn the switch in the electrical portion.

I studied the tumbler/switch assembly to see where it was worn. The ignition key to tumbler fit is sloppy but there wasn't much I could do with that. I also noticed that the the keyed portion that sticks into the electrical switch was shiny and worn down on the sides. So what I did was wrap some thin mylar style duct tape around the end of the key. I also put a couple small pieces of the same mylar around the switch/tumbler assembly as there was some play between it and the housing. I also put a couple of pieces of thin electrical tape around the electrical switch portion to tighten it up as well. I put the switch pieces all back together and EUREKA...it now works every time! If I take it apart again, I will be sure to take some pics.

This should tide me over until I can find a nice used one or a NOS one. I am checking with GPR as they have the switch with key listed on their website. I prefer the old flush style vs the newer and/or after market ones that are more domed.


Rob

Excellent job, Rob. I have the same symptoms as you did. My plastic switch works on the bench, but not installed in the tumbler. I need to remove some slop at the keyed mechanical connection and see if it works.