Hey Guys i finally got under my project, and discovered i am missing driver sides rear jack point, it looks like it ripped out, what's weird is that it isn't rusty underneath. Is it easy to weld in??? In the meantime where can I introduce a jackstand on that side that won't crunch vitals?? I am going to get sucked into this real easy I can tell already cause these cars are the *&%$!! No WCC for me this year but next year is In my sights. What goes on there?? Everyone go on drives and swap meet/Car show type gig? Help Me I AM INFLICTED!! ARE YOU!!

DAVE

Actually the theft of jack points has reached epidemic proportions. Jack point theft

rings out of California fan out across the western states and hit with out warning.

They are then smuggled into mexico by "green backs" who swallow them and

than illegally sneak across the border. There they are retrieved, melted down and

made into tacky patio furnature. Be thankful that they only got one.

Is it easy to weld in...

Can you weld? Or just join two pieces of metal together...

The "jack points" being on the side of the car? or under the floorpan... YOu shouldnt jack up the car on the side of the car unless its an emergency on the side of the road... Use the "donut" holes. as they are the strongest part for jacking. One on the outside corner of each floorpan.. Use a piece of wood inbetween the jack, and the donut Expect the wood to crack... in half is fine.. Its just protecting the floopan around the donut.

GL

Andrew

FYI alternative jack stand points are trailing arm ( tubular spot, between the two pickup points) for the rear, and A arm pick up points on either side. (for jacking up mainly.. use jack stands on the donut holes)

Also, if engine and trani are in, 2x4 or 2x8 under trani with jack will lift the rear end just fine. 2x4 distributes load weight of car over entire trani instead of on 2 fins.

Using the engine or trans to jack on can cause stress cracks in the trans ears. Better to use the engine mounting bar.

There was another thread that mentioned that the donuts might not have been intended as lifting points, but as a production position point as the cars made their way thu the factory and after looking at how thin the metal is at that point on the car I'm taking apart right now I tend to believe that.

Personaly I use the engine bar and trailing arm for the back and A arm pick up points for the front.

Your longs are the strongest part of the car. If you run a 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 the lenght of the long and lift on that you will distribute the weight evenly for that side of the car. It will also make sure that the car (& gaps) stays even when welding on it.

Bruce, I'm glad someone is reading what I'm posting.

The donuts really really don't have much support. If you look at nearly every car, the floor under the dash is deformed upwards from using the front donuts to lift the car. The rears have a little more support because of triangulation, but I still don't like using them.

This product is a good solution.

I recently had to replace my motor mounts from using a floor jack under the motor/tranny, ouch $$.

I pay attention, just sometimes I don't remember who, when or where.

I looked at the donuts on the car and unlike most NA cars/trucks those which have reinforced jack points that sort of look like the donuts, the donuts are a single piece of metal welded. Not much strength. On the car they crumbled.

Yikes.....$20 for a piece of "C" channel with some flat bar welded to it with a piece of pipe for centering..........

Jim....motor mounts are cheap.....think how much a tranny case costs to replace

I hear ya guys. It is the driver's side rear Underneath, not the side jack point. I don't have the drive train in the car so I am trying to find a point that won't bend or break. I want to leave it on stands for awhile so i can clean up underneath and take inventory of what is there and what isn't. Thanks Dave

Here's a link that you might find helpfull...... http://www.restoration-design.com/

Yar gona hate me.. but my chassis is perfect, and I continue to use the trani for lifting.