Replaced the key tumbler and plastic ignition switch. Switch finally wore out after 33 years, and was shutting off car intermittently. After replacement, I started car, notice alternator light stayed on, and no power to center console gauges (optional oil pressure which replaced oil temp (which now is in the combo gauge in dash), and voltage gauge). The combo gauge temp gauge also does not work (it typically moves about a quarter-inch at start-up). Also, NO BRAKE LIGHTS. Center console gauges are wired to back of fuse #9 (not using factory console harness). Fuse 9 did not blow. Same condition in 'accessory" position when key is turned.
Pulled steering column stalks out to remove switch to investigate, and noted that I had pinched the wires that I ran to my electric washer pump (these wires are extra and don't fit into the plastic wire guide from the wiper switch). It got hung up on one of the long screws that hold the washer and turn signal switches into the column housing. It shorted to the column housing, slightly melting the wire that leads to the washer pump. I also realized that when I installed the wiring to get +12v to the washer pump, I mistakingly wired it to the unfused side of the fuse block (rear of fuse block, not front). See "fuse 9 did not blow" above.
I fixed both of these issues, hooked up all wiring, and still no brake lights/gauges when switched to the accessory position, or when the car is started.
Checked for power leading into fuse 9 at fuse block, and there is none when key is in either position (acc/start).
Could I have smoked the brake light switch? I understand that the voltage gauge reads from the brake light circuit. Something has this circuit open.
I hate electrical problems (and my sloppy work)!
Any ideas? Thanks.