I'm trying to remove the outer half of my outboard CV joint from when it busted last weekend. I've got the shaft out, as well as the bearings and all 13 pieces of the inner cage, but I can't seem to break it loose from the hub. Since it's so tight right there, I can't really ger anything in there, such as a chisel, to work them loose. I don't have any sort of large prybar (lost my tire iron last year sometime...). Is that the reasonable thing to do, or will that damage anything? I do have all four CV bolts out on that side too. (None of those had washers, but the inboard ones did)

Thanks in advance!

squat out of luck... Its so hard to get that part off... I consider them a lost cause, and take the cv joint and stub axle out as one system... Only off the car can you remove the joint from the stub axle..

I was afraid of that. Do I need to reset the vent clearence on the rear cailpers once I put it back together? I'm assuming that I take off the castle nut, caliper and disc, then tap that out? The Haynes I've got isn't that detailed on the procedure, unless I'm looking at the wrong section..

You can get the axle out w/o having to disassemble the brakes. Remove the inner CV from the transaxle and then pull the cotter pin on the castellated nut, remove the nut.

Best to remove that nut with the car on the ground, wheel still on with a socket, 1/2 inch breaker bar and a pipe over the end. Hopefully a good tap with a deadblow hammer will break the axle loose. If you have to, you can leave the nut on a few turns or use a wood block to keep from chingering up the threads.

The passenger side is easier to remove if I remember correctly. I've done the changeouts at Autocrosses a couple of times....

BTW....if one has taken a dump best to check and repack all of them.

You don't need to remove the brake caliper or rotor to remove the castle nut, but you probably need an impact with the proper socket to remove the castle nut.

Remove the cotter pin, remove the castle nut then drive the inner stub axle through the hub with a large hammer and a wooden block. The wood block prevents the inner stub axle from deforming the threads as you beat it out of there.

Once the stub axle and cv joint are removed, you should be able to get the cv joint off of the stub axle.

Do not allow the vehicle weight to rest on the rear wheel bearing without the stub axle in place and tightened up at least most of the way or you will destroy the wheel bearing.

Mike, you type faster than I do with one hand (I'm holding my 2 month old son in the other).

BTDT....my twins are 12...my baby, 10. Just made a deal for contact lenses for the twins...they take out the trash, they can get contacts....

Excellent! I'll finish getting it out tomorrow.

Thanks guys!

After various set-backs, I've got the hub out and am working to put on some replacement CV Joints that have come into my possesion. My problem is that I can't get the CV onto the shaft.

A little closer look, and some of the splines at the end of the shaft need to be touched up. No worries, I borrow a triangle file from my neighbor, and hit them all. After I go round, I take the bag off the other side, and note that the splines are much more distinct than what's left.

So, looks like I need a drive shaft as well to complete the repair. I've got pics of both ends, as well as the the busted CV joint itself. The carnage thankfully localized to the joint, I'm sure is familiar to most.

So, anyone got an extra axle, sans CV joints, they need to unload?

Need some CV bolts and new washers too?

Sorry to hear about your plight. Tis the season for this, though. I wish I still had my parts hoard so I could hook you up with a shaft, but I know many folks here have 4 or more sitting around for next to nothing.

You have spare 914 CVs? Consider yourself very lucky as they are NLA. Look at Muellers post on the TI CVs if you need to get new ones.

I wish you were closer, I'd give you the axle and cv off of my parts car.



BTW, I lived in Wichita Falls for awhile back in '76. Had a dune buggy full of cowboys try to sell me some .

Found $100.00 in 5 dollar bills floating down the gutter during a rain storm while I was walking aroung looking for an apartment.

Can't have it back though.



Something about cowboys, dune buggies and caused me to lose it...

A little view of the damage done:
Outboard End of Axle
Click to view attachment
A little rounded off.

Inboard Side
Click to view attachment

Catastrophic Failure of the Outboard CV Joint
Click to view attachment
Leaves were not included in CV joint


Wow, WF in the late 70's? Before my time. BTW, my neighbor has a couple of dune buggies he's working on, and someone else around here is big into . Neither one is a cowboy though.

(Family was remembering the Tornado in '79 not long back. First time I'd heard details like that that I can recall. Having not lived through it or anything like it, it's hard to timagine what that or the hurricanes would be like...)

They look ok to me (axles shaft ends). AS long as there is enough meat to hold on the circlip you should be fine as far as the end is concerned. The real important part is that the splines that hte CVs rest on are beefy enough.

Unless I am not seeing something in your pics?

I can't get the CV joint onto the axle. The edge (I assume) has been worn from contact with the broken parts of the old CV joint. I figure that I could sit with a triangle file for a couple of hours cleaning it up, but I'd hate to accidently file the splines that the CV slides on.

I'd thought, if I had a good inner section of a bad CV, I could almost try tapping it on, and letting that sorta clear the splines, but I dont, so it looks like either quality time with the file or another axle.

I didn't pull the other axle, didn't plan on it until I had replacements for that side, but I assume that both ends are susposed to be square instead of the outboard rounded off? With the wear that's already there, I was a little concerned about filing too much. And I figured there has to be a stack of decent axles longing for some good CVs and a car to push around.

True dat