i just bought new break pads and thought it would be a nice easy break job, but i can't even get the lug nuts loose!!! i though it was because the tires have not been changed or taken off in 10 years so i though ok may be it just needs some encouragement ( i put a pry bar on my socket and snapped the socket extender in half)

next i sent the wife for a new socket extender and an actual tire iron for the car.
She brought me a 4 way tire iron and a brand new newmattic wrench with the sockets i needed.

i WD-40ed the shit out of it and then tryed like 10 times with the gun and no luck. i put the tire iron on it and was able to pick the front end of the car off the ground but not loosen the nuts!!!!!!

any ideas???

I guess you could try some real penetrating lube, like PB Blaster, not WD40.

But if you don't have some mean air toys, then a long lug wrench and some muscle is the ticket.



If you need more muscle, then a long piece of pipe is your friend.

yah i will try a few more times and hit it with some penitrent lub. just was not sure if there was some special trick? seems like a dumb question, but i have never had a problem removing lug nuts and it seams all of these dont even budge. though that was wierd.

water displacement formula #40 is great for getting moisture out of your distributor cap. nearly worthless as a penetrant. get yourself a 20", 1/2" drive breaker bar, and a 3/4" or 19mm impact socket. clean your lug nuts and treat them with some anti-seize.

1/2 inch breaker bar, 19mm socket, 3 foot pipe to go over cheater bar......getrer done.....

large breaker bar and me jumping on it about 5 times for eahc nut. real loud crack like the nuts were breaking off, but looks good. all are lose and 1st one is off.

i so not see any good places to support the car on blocks? just the spot i am jackin up from?? any ideas

mike, nice pic, but that is not one of those photos that when you scroll down you se a guys dick still attached is it? lets all hope not!

Where are you jacking it from? Are you using the factory jack hole? You can put jack stands under the donut under the car forward of the trailing arm mount. you would have to jack the car from the bottom of the trailing arm, either at its pivot tube or by where the axle goes into the arm.

Hardened socket, breaker bar and a 4' length of pipe (chain fence post works good).

Don't jump up and down on the breaker bar. It shock loads the nuts and can slip off and or damage them or damage you. Constant preassure with the long bar works best.

Step away from the crack pipe....no dicks in my chick pics....

Best to use a FLOOR jack...not the POS emergency jack supplied with the car. DO NOT use the welded jack box in the middle of the rocker panels unless you have to, use the four round donuts under the car at each corner of the pan, place floor jack pad under the donut....assuming the pan is not rusty and the donuts are still there.

Use jack stands....and lower the floor jack.

yes i am jacking by the round donuts behing the driver door area. i jacked it up high enough to put my jack stand under the front donut and then i put the other jack stand just in front of the donut on what i am hopping is the frame, but can not tell because the car was heavely coated with undercoat. just was not sure, but seams to hold fine. all 4 jacks are in place now.


Yah i go the tip about jumping a little to late!! when the firstt one broke loose the bar came around and cought me behind the knee. nice mark and alittle blood

If you plant one foot on the cheater pipe/bar, one on the ground and give it a good firm INcontact push/shot with yer foot it should break loose. If not, get a longer pipe.

Chain link fence posts are great. Archimedes Principle, don't ya know.....

thanks all i am off to get a 30 mm socket to remove the center nut to take the roters off.

why are you going to remove the rear axle nuts to get the rotors off?

k

dont i need to???

that is how it was showing in the book unless i wam reading it wrong

no, you don't. after you remove the rear tires, you should see the heads of 2 flat tip screws on the outer face of the rotor. they retain the rotor when the wheel is off. they can be tough. you may have to climb underneath the car, look on the rear side of the rotors and you should see the screw threads protruding thru and spray them down as well as the outerside. you really need to source a good penetrant. pb blaster or aerokroil are both excellent choises. if you think the lugs were tough, the 30mm nuts are torqued down very tight.

k

uh... the rear rotor is olny held on by 2 little screws... AND the caliper.

don't mind him. that's just the way geoff is.

k

you guys lost me???? so it is just the 2 small flat head screws

Y E S

you need to remove the caliper OBVIOUSLY if you are pulling the rotor off.

why are you pulling the rotor to change pads?

yes, correct. you'll need to remove the 2 19(?) mm bolts that retain the caliper and move it aside. also note an extra little hole in the rotor face. it's threaded and you can use it to push the rotor off with one of the screws. there may be a rust bond with the rotor and the hub. again, the penentrants i mentioned will be your best friends.

k

to turn the rotor (hopefully it's in spec) before the pads go in? you don't put nice new pads in with shitty, ridged up rotors do you?

k