Motor is completely apart, just needs to be cleaned....

This is what I have for it so far:
ARP "thru-case studs"
ARP "head stud kit"
(both above item bought from LN Engineering)

I also have a new Shadrek(sp??) Type 1 oil pump for it.

I know I have to do a few mods to the case for the oil pump, but other than that, what needs to be done.
I'm on a strict budget now, so I have to weed thru the
wants and needs and pick the more suitible item now.




Motor specs:
stock bore and stroke (2.0)
Flat top pistons (wiating for heads to figure out the compression, but I want in the low 9's)

stock 2.0 heads, but I will clean up the ports a little
(exhaust ports ceramic coated)

FK-10 cam (pretty aggressive cam, but motor will be Megasquirted, so that should be okay)

Eurorace Headers (not decided on muffler yet, street car, I don't want it too loud)

Not to open another thread, but why did you get ARP hardware? The stock studs and through bolts are not stretch to yield and can be re-used. With a fairly stock motor, this is an expense not required.
That said, we had issues with shuffle on our center main bearing. We heard that shuffle pinning really doesn't help this so we took a different tack. We machined out the center two through bolt channels and fit a drill rod through there. This allowed us the benefit of a shuffle pin-type setup along with the ability to add a few more punds of clamping pressure where we need it. Brad has seen this, you can ask for his comments....
You need to mate the oil pressure pistons with the high volume oil pump and "match" the oil passageways and taper them. Also, once teh case halves are put together, hone the surface the pump will mate to (the studs need to be removed..
Make sure your cylinder mating surfaces are flat...
Check the line bore....
You could add piston squirters...

That's about it.....anyone else?

chris

Hey Chris,

I bought the ARP hardware since eventually, the motor is going to be turbocharged, with the ARP parts, I can crankdown the heads a tad bit more.

Now that I have them, I might as well keep them for this motor, whether I turbo it or not.

I'll look into the "shuffle-pin type mod"

thanks,

Mike, thats one hell of a cam.....plus its an Engle (Yuck)

As for the studs, clamping pressure can be a BAD THING. Thats why the ARP studs have the correct stretch factor. Studs that are over torqued or not the right material will INCREASE clamping pressure when the engine warms up and WARP Heads/cylinders and CAUSE problems.

I may be willing to design you a combo, keep it mild but squeeze every ounce from it...It'll consist of a split duration cam for sure and I'd like tio talk you into a larger set of valves (just slightly)...I don't normally do this sort of thing, but I NEED a set of roller bearings...LOL

With the cam and valves you have planned and CR the engine is most definately misconfigured for a TIV.......

ITS ALL IN THE COMBO!!! Thats how I squeeze 180BHP out of a smaller engine than my competition does......

So Jake,

What are your thoughts on shufflepinning and/or extra clamping pressure on the case? I know lots of folks have had the same issue we did on the center main.

Chris

Shuffle pinning cures a symptom. The condition can be corrected with proper modification of the case to ensure the bearing sits perfectly round in the center main bore- THEY DO NOT until modified.

I have shuffle pinned ONE TIV case in my life. Simply not needed.

Another BIG factor is the state of balance the engine is in, and who sets up the crush of the bearings to the crankshaft. i have found that factory settings are the worst known to man.

Just takes ALOT of trial and error!

Jake,

I sent you an email with my phone numbers