OK, I threw you a softball there with the title.


Disassmebly of the case is happening this week, and i'm taking it down to the machine shop.

I'm thinking

line bore crank and cam
galley plugs pulled
rods rebuilt exact length.
machine case surfaces exactly flat and aligned
machine cylinders to exact heights (one has a dinged mating surface that looks like trouble)

9550 cam from jake.

so questions:
about the galley plugs, what goes in after they are pulled? when you guys say "tap" them are you talking threading them so a bolt can be inserted or what?

oil pump upgrade? good stockish or upgrade option?

is it cool to use the old hardware for the case and rods?



whats the tricks to making this thing go another 75k?


do i need another 20 minutes a day on the exercise bike?

Align boring should be done ONLY if the case needs it, and T4 cases rarely do. There are no oversize cam bearings available, IME, so you'll have to junk the case if you align bore the cam journals. Rods should always be rebuilt, and you need to provide a couple of your wrist pins to assure the upper end is done right. If you machine the cylinders, you need to do so in such a way that they can be shimmed to be equal height when installed. When you remove the galley plugs, you thread the holes to take pipe plugs. We always use aluminum plugs in order to match the expansion rates of the plugs and the case, and the use of pipe plugs assures a good tight tapered fit. As for machining the case flat, a large flat file, a delicate touch, and a half hour of work will generally suffice. If the case is worse than that, you need to replace it. The Cap'n

Have the shop check the main saddles before you have it align bored.
I haven't heard of the cam saddles being bored, are there bearings made for this?

Case halves are set by the factory so doing anythings to them other than cleaning and shuffle pins are a no no.

I would just get the rods from Jake as he balances them too end to end for you to make a matched set. A local shop isn't going to do that for you or they will take a belt sander to them to "balance" them. Jake also offers the ARP rods bolts installed if you want a rod that won't breaka bolt this is the way to go.

Oil pumps are a good upgrade so look at Jake 28mm pump


Use Jake as much as you can afford as he does offer excellent parts for the money.

Taping the case means pulling all the pressed in plugs, then cleaning the oil gallerys with different brushes to remove all the gunk that sticks there. The holes are then tapped using taps to install threads so you can then install threaded screw in plugs. This way the plugs won't blow out or leak in the future. This whole deal is this step is important to make sure the oil galleys are clean and don't leak in the future with the new oil pressure.

To make this last another 75 k the tricks are to balance the whole rotating assembly: rods, crank, flywheel, PP, clutch, pistons etc.
and mostly properly rebuilt heads! only heads rebuilt by Len/Jake or Adrian will last. Cheaping out on the heads is a sure way to have a problem

Powder coat the engine tin instead of spray painting it as it lasts vs peelingoff in the first year.

Geoff

OK, rods from Jake seems good, since i'm ordering from him.


The gent who's built the heads ($500) seems to have done a pretty good job.
All new seats and studs, stock guides and my TRW/VW valves. Stock sizes on the valves.


He apparently has old german bearings for line bored cases too.
The machining of the case faces is part of his blueprinting process, along with exact rods and cylinder heights. Not 100% but it sounds like a cool way to blow some $$$.

Twstd1 had said his mate could balance my rotating assembly for a good price. Maybe i'll see how that goes.

28mm oil pump sound right.


as of today i've got two sets of powder coated tins.

super glossy and 70% gloss. cant decide which one looks best.

as long as the seats are installed per the type 4 interference fit specs it should be ok.
sounds good to me

The seats were fitted and then the aluminum around the seat was massaged at about 8,000 psi to increase the holding pressure on the seat. Left a bunch of marks in the aluminum as well, so they have definitely been worked over.

when i get them i'll post a picture.
Looked messier than a stock head.... but no question that the work has been done.


any chance of a not smooth surface affecting the running?
I can post pics later maybe.

If the metal is raised it can cause hot spots so this method isn't the favored method of holding the seats in.

So lay it on me. Whats the preferred method?

and does the surface need to be made smooth?


I'd be really pissed if these things are jacked after what it cost to do them.

disassembly complete.

case is stripped and cleaned up a little.
crank is out.
cam and lifters may be headed for the trash.

bastard nut behine the bottom of the flywheel really had me going for awhile.
also found strange markings on the back of the case

R I M C O


the bearings in it are all standard sizes
mating surfaces looked clean without marks.

now...

I'm wondering if there isn't a smart choice for case work?
anyone want to give a quick once over and let me know what you think?

Sounds good so far. Trash the cam and lifters

I would just run the heads now as that is what you have. I don't like that method of locking the seats but....