My driver side door sags at the end making it impossible for the window to roll and seal properly. Is there a fix for door sag?
thanks
will

well... in many cases the fix requires cutting and welding.

You may have a rust problem on your hands. Time to get familar with the terms "hell hole" and "longs"

Are you sure it is the door and not the car sagging? My bet is the car is bending in the middle.

It may not be a rust or body sag issue. My passenger door seems to sag to the point where it is difficult to open from the outside. I'm thinking maybe the hindges are not aligned, loose, or something.

If its not a chassis sagging problem change the hinges!

yes. and it's easy too!

first, make *sure* it's not rust related. take off the rocker panel and check the longs for rust.
if you got rust, you'll need to


now, if the car is rust free and otherwise in good shape, make sure it's the door sagging and not just the window being out of alignement ...

if the back of the door does not line up with the rear fender, do this:

open the door about half way, roll down the window, stand behind the door and grab the bottom of the door at the far rear end and slowly push up the door a few times and release until it's the right height ...

make sure you don't slam the door shut afterwards as you most liekly will have to losen and adjust the door-stop on the rear door jamb to make it close right.
we don't want any dings in your nice paint, do we?

Andy

no rust issue with this car. I loosen the hinges and pushed the door up then re-tighten the hinges. It still sags. I don't think it is the body that is sagging because the car virtually rust free.. Where can I take it for a body alignment? The window has been adjusted a thousand times without any luck. It must be the door.
Thanks
Will

"virtually rust free"....

Does this mean it's only rust free in a virtual reality? These days "rust free" rarely means "free from rust". More often, it just means "the rust is free"...

Rust is insideous. And in these cars, it often hides where you can't see it.

Does the door fail to align whether there is someone in the car or not? And is it by the same amount loaded vs. unloaded? If so, then it's likely the door. If the alignment of the door changes with someone (say 180+ lbs) in the driver's seat, then the longs are suffering some rust problems. Time to and ...

-Josh2

I agree with Andy, You have a bent door. actually the door jamb where the hinges mount too. Andy explained how to "un-bend" it. Little bit at a time. I would imagine some time in the past somebody put un due weight on the door while it was open. Somehow it tweaked the jamb a bit.

Makes perfect sense to me. I have done this on both of my 914's and one on my 928.

the door fails to align regardless of load. The door does shut tight, but when it is opened you can see the door drop a little at the end.
I will try Andy's technique for fixing the door jam.
I have no experience with or .
thanks,
will

Okay, it sounds like a tweaked door alignment. Andy's suggestion is a good one.

Good luck!

-Josh2

I had the same issue. The guy that painted my car suggested putting a shim behind the lower hinge. I just completed the shim install last night -It worked great! My door alignment and window alignment are now right where they should be.

I did not take any pics, but it is pretty straight forward. I cut a paper template using a 3x5 notecard. I made the template just slightly smaller than the perimeter of the hinge plate, about 1/16" to 1/8" smaller all the way around. This allows for the shim to not be seen after installation. For the actual shim I used .030" gasket stock. I punched in the holes for the 3 bolts to pass through.

Steps that I went through after making the gasket/shim:
-mark the current bottom hinge plate location using painter's tape
-support the bottom of the door using a floor jack with a cloth protector against the paint
-remove the 3 hinge plate bolts
-slide the shim in place
-install the 3 bolts finger tight
-align the door back to the original location
-tighten the 3 bolts

I got a little lucky and the first shim thickness that I tried worked perfect.

Before adding the shim I had the door striker post set up so that the door would slightly lift into proper alignment when closed. It looked right when closed, but the top of the window would drag on the targa seal when trying to open the door with the window up. Now with the shim in place the door striker post no longer has to create the lift. The door closes easier and I can open the door with the window full up and not have it drag against the targa seal.

no ...

you *have* to do this with the hinges tight, otherwise it won't work ...
Andy

thanks people....I will try everything suggested here today....wish me luck...
will

Floorjack and a 2x4. Jack up the bottom of the door slowly. Release and repeat until you "get" the desired results. I do this with the door barely open past the body. Dont jack it up on the outside surface. Jack it up from the flat portion of the door.


B