Alright. So. Had my car on jackstands for 4 days last week and it was absolutely killing me. F.I. problems. (L-jet.) I have those problems resolved, and now I'd like to look at aftermarket distributor kits. Does anyone have any good opinions on what to get, and some good arguement for why?

Thanks!

Why? If you've got a stock 1.8 with L-Jet, there's not much if anything to gain. shit, throw in a fresh rotor/cap/wires/plugs -- throw away your points and install an optical ignition like the crane xr700 -- and call it a day.

Alright. That's a valid point. But I'm also collecting parts for a race engine. And I'd like to have personal experiance with some of the things that I'll be sticking on it.

this is apparently the hot setup:

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/store/p...&cat=306&page=1

I'm putting a Mallory in the zambeziteen. Because I want to.

if the box did the trick, adj the valves and tune it up. was it the box? new points (cheap). save your dough for the hotrod motor. you're gonna need it.

k

Well, see. I was thinking that I put something snazzy on the motor I've got now, and then if I like it, it'll go on the hot motor and I'll downgrade back to a 050.

Rhodyguy, the airbox had failed before the backfire into the plenum. The repalcement airbox was good, but I had the injectors flow tested for resale to another member here, and they turned out to be the problem. I've got a rebuilt set in there now, and the car runs fine. Did I ever thank you for your help? THANKS!

Oh, yeah. So the dizzy.

I've had this flatspot since shortly after I bought the car. Right between 3000rpm and 4000rpm. It's such a sudden power loss that I literally can't accelerate through it. My recomendations were to replace the dizzy, but I never got around to it (colorado weather, school, work, and general laziness got in the way.) Now, I'd like to hop to it, and I figure I can get some R&D done (for the new motor) when I replace it if I go to an aftermarket setup.

Meanwhile, the flatspot isn't so bad that I can't drive the car like a bat outa hell. So there aren't ANY benifits to it working like it does (fewer police chases being the benifit of a slow car)

Get the Mallory (mechinical, unilite only), you can run a bosch blue coil with it.

If you buy it off of someone other than Jake you need to order the Grey/grey springs, so add that to the final price.

Aircooled.net also have them but make sure to get the Grey/grey springs, I don't think they will sell them to you later.

When your snazzy race motor is done, you can take the dizzy with you.

Yeah. I was hoping for some arguement on why I should buy that one for 350$. Besides Jake says it's the best. Anyone have some hard numbers on that one. 350$ is a lot for "R&D," but it would be worth it if someone has some data on it.

Did you do any looking yourself? They can be purchased for significantly less than what raby wants.

www.centuryperformance.com is where i bought my unilite from..

you will need an "advance curve change kit" comes with the springs and the tuning keys...

AA

Your choices are pretty limited, Mallory or MSD plus another that is basicly a GM HEI unit mounted on a Type I/IV housing.

For the MSD, I believe the cap is even larger in diameter so more needs to be done on the engine sheetmetal.

The MSD requires MSD wires, the Mallory is more "universal"

Advance curves for both are available on-line.

One argument that the MSD might be better is the use of a VR signal instead of the LED of the Mallory. I, along with a few others have fried the LED of the Mallory from operator error, not sure if the MSD would fail from the same screwups.

Either one can be used later on down the road with carbs of course or even aftermarket programmable fuel injection.

I have the Mallory with the mech. adv. locked out and my ECU controls the spark but has the distributor deliever the spark.

So should I take a swing at the MSD unit?

I also have an optical crankfire trigger laying around here that I kinda want to use on the hot engine, but I could absolutely not use it without a ton of modification. So that's definately a no-go for my streeter.

Fitting a dizzy shouldn't be a problem. I can always make spacers to raise it up, instead of pounding the sheetmetal (or what have you.)

yea, but then you'd have to lower the drive gear the same amount and have to worry about the O-ring to seal the housing. A new shaft or heavily modifed unit would be a PITA. If going thru that much trouble you might as well make a new dizzy from scratch using some stock components.