when not running, gears feel as though they engage just fine. under power, only have reverse.

yep, checked the cone screws both front and back. clutch engages right at the floor which it did not do before and have the clutch cable set screw, screwed almost all the way in.

suggestions?

just had to push the thing up the drive by myself so gonna leave it be for a bit. otherwise going well. small exhaust leak at a stub pipe for the header that i need to fix. now if i can figure out the shifting/clutch thing i am all set!!!

cheers....

Only reverse? so 5 speeds in reverse?

What did you do to the tranny? any work or just pull it?

what geoff said...

you put the diff in wrong way?

Oh, I forgot to add that its time for some,

Reverse Engineering!!!

What did you do to my work of art!?

He did nothing to the tranny, I just rebuilt it for him so it better not have 5 in reverse.

Scott,
"clutch engauges right at the floor" is a good indication that you have to tighten your clutch cable at the back on the TO bearing arm. You did that, didn't you?

Clutch cable set screw? Are you trying ot adjust it completely from the inside of the cabin at the cluster?

Also, it is customary to put a spacer on the cable end in the back underneath the nuts. It will save you an arm cramp when tightening the lock nuts, and give you more adjustability when you stretch your cable.

Call me if you need to.

Also, you should have around 3/4" of play in the pedal.

If the clutch is not disengauging until the floor then it is too loose and there is load being put on your gears still when you are shifting. Reverse has no synchros and such and is a straight cut gear so it is gonna be easier for you to get into.

first, i am sure there is nothing wrong with the trany. i just needed a little guidance on what/how to adjust when swapping the trany.

spoke with mike and he walked me through a couple of ideas that i am going to start with.

thanks all....

PS: and just for fun, power to my fuel pump just went away....damn....

Check your AAR and your heater blower connections. Both of them get power from the same circuit as the fuel pump and their plugs can ground out on the case causeing a short. Also, of course, the realy and fuse.

Maybe you should just put the wrench down and walk away slowly?

yep, done for the day. the brits should be back from their ventures shortly so will need to entertain them.

hey mike, wanna come down after the 19th? especially if the car remains without function at that time!!!!

scott,
sell me the car for $1000 and call it a day.

Scott, no offence, but I am hoping that your car is not running so I can come down and fix it for you.....because I am sick in the head, but I am serious.

At the rate you are going, you will have allo fo the questions that I have for you answered so all I will have to do is show up and place my hands on the car to fix it, "Evil demins be gone!"

Seriously, though--your symptoms have "classic clutch adjustment problem" written all over them. Try adjusting the clutch and see if things improve. I'm betting the clutch isn't fully disengaging.

--DD

My first question to him was, "Has your flywheel ever been surfaced?" I am wondering if the tranny he took out had the clutch arm ball shimmed.

put same shims back IN

BTW.. my flywheel has clearanced bolts LOL

learned about the shim thing today.... AFTER i put the thing back in!!!

ah well.... a good excuse to have mike and noel down for a visit. and if it is running, then a nice excuse to go for a tear.... it's all good.

cheers,

scott

welcome to tranny land. aint it fun??

"tranny land"? Corona?

well the doctor was right.... took the clutch arm ball out of my old trany and lo and behold, there were 3 thin washers!

so out comes the new trany this weekend to shim the clutch arm ball. doh! gonna try removing just the trany without taking the engine out with it. another tool time adventure!!!

well at least i got the thing running again tonite. #9 fuse went poof. easy fix.