Time to turn to the knowledge of everyone here on the list for advice on how much to offer for an original 914-6. After these many years of looking at 6’s I now have one exclusively available and the decision is harder than I thought it would be. (Sorry for the length but after reading a lot of club posts I know it’s better to be thorough.)

Even if you can only respond to one item, please take a moment to do so. It would be greatly appreciated,

The vehicle is owned by the father of one of the graphic designers that works at my wife’s design business. I’ve been talking to him for about 2 years and he finally decided to sell. (I currently have a ’74 2.0 which will be up for sale if the deal goes through.)

He is the second owner and has had it for about 28-30 years. It has been stored in his garage for the last 8-9 years.

The car is in stock mechanical condition, with 87,000 miles with no major work (engine, transmission, brakes). The gas had a preservative added when it was parked (which seem to good for about 2 years). There is no gas left in the tank and no gum buildup on the bottom although I’m presuming that the fuel lines, pump and carbs will likely need cleaning, rebuilding or replacing.

The linkage shifts better than my 914-4 just sitting there but that’s not much of a real test. There does not appear to be any rust under the battery (it has been repainted in this area but poking with a screwdriver did not reveal any week spots.) I did not realize that the sixes did not have a drain hole in this area, is that correct? Battery tray is in perfect condition. What looks like rust in the photos is actually the original signal orange paint.

Things are a bit greasy underneath and in the engine compartment around the filter. Not well maintained in these areas but the grease may have prevented some rust.

Could not get a good look at the trailing arm mounting points under the battery as there was no room on that side of the car, but the doors open and closes without any binding. Could not see the longitudinals as the tires are flat and there was no room to get the valances off.

Floors under and behind seats appear to be sound and the trunk does not show any sign of rust although the black paint could be hiding some.

Front trunk does have some rust damage at the left front. There appears to be about an 8” line where the floor is probably rusted through. Not down in the spare tire well but about 2” from the light bucket. The seam between the floor and fender in this area (left side) from the light bucket back to the bulkhead also appears fairly rusted, about half as bad as the area above. (Pictures show some detail)

There is also rust on all the seams under both light buckets. Not all the way through, but worse in real life that the pictures show.

There are a couple of small bubbles (1/8”) on the fenders below the roll bar vinyl about an inch out on each side. Paint is intact but we all know what is underneath.

Interior is only ok but way better than many I have seen. Each seat has one tear in a bolster, and carpets will need replacing along with dash and door vinyl.

The only changes from stock are cosmetic as follows.

Car was repainted 15 years ago in a Tangerine Orange. Original color was Signal Orange. Trunks are both painted black with a spray can. Door jambs were sprayed correctly but engine compartment is a mixture of both colors and underside of front and back hood were sprayed black, also with a spray can. Black is kind of rough.

Fiberglass rear spoiler molded onto the steel truck lid and fenders. Probably looked real nice at one time but you can see the line where the fiberglass and metal meet and a few spots are not perfectly flat.

Clear Plexiglas sunroof professionally cut into fiberglass roof. (Can’t figure out why this was added but oh well.)

After market steering wheel (original is included)

Neff bars on front and rear along with two extra driving lights.

Non-stock gauge and switch added to the original center cubby hole.


Soooo…

This is what I’m figuring it might cost to get on the road again and this is where I really need the lists help to see if my guesses are right. I’m not looking for a concurs car so I’m open to modifications that don’t vary far from the cars origins. I’m looking at SF Bay Area pricing.

Engine
With 87,000 miles it is at least due for a valve job. (I can drop the engine and bring it in to a rebuilder. Top end only I’m guessing would be about 4,000 to 5000K, but it would still be a 2.0.

Would it be better to just look for a used 3.0 or 3.2 (going to a 2.2, 2.4, or 2.7 seems like it would cost as much or more than the 3’s). What should I expect to pay for a decent used engine? (Would I also need new carbs, or is EFI a better way to go.) I do a lot of spirited driving and try to get to a couple of autocross events and am planning on at least 1 DE each year. May add a roll bar in the future if I really get hooked on the DE’s.

Carbs
I’ve rebuilt others (not Webers) so I’m assuming I could do these myself if I stay with the 2..0.

Transmission
Won’t know until I drive it but have seen prices around 1,800 for a rebuild. Assume that going with a 3.0 would require a billet intermediate plate and lockout of first. Any ideas on how much extra this might be?

Chassis
I have no idea what fixing the rust up front might cost. Should I just replace the whole spare tire well? What about the head light buckets.

Body
I have heard that a decent paint job would be about 4,500 0 5,500. Would do the trunks myself. Anyone have some real life experience here?

Interior
I have done this before and estimate that it would be about $750 to make it look nice.


It looks like nicer 914-6’s are going for about 23-25K at the moment so doing the math…

Engine (2.0) 5,000
Misc engine (carbs etc) 500
Chassis 2,000 ??
Body 5,000

This gets me to about 13,000 or maybe about 15,000 if I go with a 3.0 or 3.2 (adding an up front oil cooler.)

That means I would have to buy the car for about 10,000 for this to pencil out.

Anyone see any areas where I’m off on my guesses.

Many thanks to any one who can help me on this. I will deciding within the next week or two. (I know if I decide not to go with it that there will be others that are interested. I will be happy to forward your contact information to the seller if he is interested. Please hold off sending anything until I post my decision here.)

Thanks for any help you can offer.

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Additional photos follow.

Ken Schipper

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Trunks are hand spray painted with a can. Has a selinoid trunk opener

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View into engine compartment

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Battery area

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What looks like rust under the battery is acutally the original Signal Orange paint.

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More Battery

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Webers

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Exterior

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Front trunk rust problem area. About 8" long here. Looks to be all the way through.

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Another view of the same area.

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Seam along left front fender. Looks rusted all the way along. Not through. 8" rust area in previous photos is just to the left in this picture.

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Under light bucket. Not all the way through but worse than the picture shows.

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Front trunk area.

Interior. It does still have the foot rest.

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Looks like a fairly clean and original car with some "custom" PO mods.

I think its a $10-12k car as it sits and maybe more if the PO gets the car running. The rust issues might devalue the price but you don't show detailed pics of it.

Rust really dosen't look that bad. No adapter plate needed for 3.0- 3.6 just a

change of flywheel. Nice find.

nice find! yes, it'll need some TLC, but it looks like a really solid base.

i'm jealous ...
Andy

I'd buy it if I were in the market, and I'd probably keep it stock.

if it's a MY'70: would you mind telling the VIN - it's just for my records

Gustl

Hey Ken...how are you doing? Great to see you ready to go for a 914-6! I agree that it looks like a good base car. I would go over it once again with an ice pick, rust can be sneaky. I'm not sure I would offer more than 8,000-9,000 for a non-running car though. If the motor checks out ok....meaning no immediate rebuild needed, then maybe 12,000-13,000.(doubt it though if engine has been sitting). If the vin and engine #'s match, you might want to keep it a 2.0L(higher value). As you are probably know, returing it to original will take a lot of work and $. But it will be worth it! Good luck and keep me posted...let me know if I can help....rob

Hi Rob,

Good to hear from you. Things are going great.

Buying a 6 is turning out to be real hard. I have this one which would be a medium project and would probably take about 4 months to get fully sorted. I'm looking at a black 2.0 this evening that has been fully restored/rebuilt, engine, transmission, brakes, paint, interior for 22,000. And there is the blue car in the classifids here for 26,000 and basket case care here for 10,500 with flares which sounds similar to what you started with. (probably more than I want to tackle...but who knows) If you get a moment look at the two cars here and let me know what you think.

Shoot me an email at kenschipper@hotmail.com and I'll send you the link to the one I'm looking at tonight.

Ken

A very good buy at $10,000, a steal at anything less. Keep it stock. Your money is safe if you can get it to restored driver condition for another $15 or less.

Nice find. I'd keep it stock, just not to many stock ones left. As far as the engine with 87k, clean it up, get it running, take compression / leakdown. Take the reading after putting a couple of hundred miles on engine to get everything freed up. It really probably doesn't need a top end done. Probably going to need carbs done.

If it hasn't had a top end done, the heads are probably set up for leaded gas, you might want to treat gas with Marvel Mystery Oil. Unleaded will eventually tear them up.

There should be a drain hole under the battery, mine has one. Painted closed?

Check for rust with a ice pick, unless it's a really large bad area, I don't think I'd replace complete panels. Small area's would be more of a patch/seal/paint type repair. My battery tray was pitted but hadn't gone thru, I wire brushed it then filled with JB Weld (acid resistant) smoothed it out and painted it. The area on the rockers that usually rusts out got a coat of JB Weld too (rust barrier) before painting.

You can get a tranny rebuild for less that $1800. I bought a spare, took both apart and built one excellent one for less than $500. There are probably someone around you that could help with a rebuild, one day job (lots of coffee breaks).

Great price at $10k. Even stock I can keep up with the turbo's on the twisty's. Originals are getting few and far between.

Good Luck, Don

Anyone else have info on the drain holes at the front corners of the engine compartment. This car definitely does not have any on the battery side.

They came with them so its plugged or been patched over. There wasn't any difference is almost all the sheet metal between a 4 and a 6. Small things like engine mounts, washer bottle mount, steering mount etc.

Looks like a good solid project six, for the right price. I'd do it at 10 - but all the badges ("badges? We don....") & the John Force sticker crap is gross! Thankfully it all comes off. Go for it!

I noticed that this 914-6 has "nerf bars" front and rear. I just bought a 73 914 that we are building as a race car and it had the same "nerf bars". Does anyone know about this option?? Thanks, Al

I may be wrong, but IIRC those were an aftermarket option, not a factory option. I have seen a set on eBay before, NIB, for around $200 I think. It had an original ad, but I forget the name of the manufacturer. I do remember that they were listed as "bumper protectors" or something to that effect.

-Chris

That there car should clean up real nice like... as soon as ya kick out the Dukes of Hazard.

I'm going for $8000 as is. Being a non-runner is a pretty big deal. It's a big project to take on, so make sure you love it, because that will help you stay the course through the tough times; and there will be tough times!

Usually the $8000 6's for sale have been with trashed interiors or other big rust issues.
Rusty paid for his 6 about $8k years ago for a non runner.

So for $8k it would be Highway robbery IIHO

I would jump on that like fried chicken, wanna flip it? CALL ME.


John

It sounds like Ken is trying to keep his money together on it, so I was figuring in a little for labor. On the open market, sure it would bring $10k or a bit more. But I don't think $8k is robbery by any means. He asked what he should offer, so I think $8k is a fair offer all the way around. If the guy wants full market then you have to make it available to the market. Just my take.

I'd keep it stock, and cut up/mod a 4 cyl for your go faster car. I'd also offer you: $8001 after you seal the deal...

$8002

$ 8500 - including shipping to my door

Gustl

Looks like a great car for a 4 conversion! Good luck with it.

9500 and up. I think that car has more add-ons than we can see from the pic, the Owner looks to have done some AX.
9501 am i high bidder?

Ken, give us an update? Remember, take your time...no rush. You will probably keep this car for a long time. Send me pic's of your other options.....rob

I'm in the keep it stock camp for once in my life.

If you are going to be hotrodding away, why start w/ a rare car? The motor mount is easy in the grand scheme of things, so now you are paying big $$$ for a vin #

BJH

Hi Ken!
Haven't heard from you for quite a while!
I say keep it original, not that many around. But recognize that you'll have to pour more $$ into it to bring it back, thus offer accordingly. If you can get it for $8K I would say go for it; especially if you can do some (or most) of the work yourself. Let us know how it works out!
Later,

Those nerf bars look cool as hell. I say powder coat them and the bumpers flat black. Get some black wheels and put 01 on the side and a rebel flag on top. That would be a sweet ride

For a number of different reasons I have decided to pass on the purchase. Still too many unknowns such as the engine (a big one) and potential rust in the suspension area under the battery.

No matter how I played with the numbers I still came out over $25,000 to get it up to the leve of cars I can find right now for about $23,000. Seems like the old adage of buying a car that someone else has spent the money to fix up is true.

The owner is currently deciding if he wants me to release his contact information. Will update this post once I hear from him.

Thanks for all the responses.

Ken

Actually, I paid 6500 for my 914-6 in 1999-2000. Needed full strip and repaint, rotted heat exchangers, tires barely held air, mice living in the car, trashed interior, KYB shocks that wouldn't hold my screen door open. I chose to replace the Marelli distributor while it was still serviceable because the cap and rotor are NLA. The carbs needed to be gone through, like yours will. My experience is that your brakes will need a full flush, new rubber lines and possibly caliper rebuilds.

The car had a crunched front right fender that had an inch of bondo on it... and some damage to one door. All this was hidden until I stripped the four complete paint jobs off the car.

At 6500 back then, I still got a deal. If the body is solid with no crash damage, then 8-9k is probably a very good deal.

Don't forget to pull the rockers and check for rust. Get under that baby and check the suspension ears, too.

Good luck,
Lawrence

// edit // Guess I should have read the rest of the thread. Don't feel bad about not buying the car. You'll find the right one for you - one you'll feel comfortable with!

not sure how that gets you to $25,000? You add up your estimated costs (say $15,000 to be conservative), and the plug # is what you are prepared to pay ($23,000 for a good vehicle - $15,000 out of pocket). Anything less than $8,000 you are ahead of the game.

Offer him $7,500.

Jim

In 99 I looked at a 914/6 that ran fine at a local VW dealer. Price was $14k
Checked out the car completely and offered $11k tops. Had some long rust and other rust issues but the car was complete and ran great.

Someone else bought the car and had it redone completely by a local shop. Poured buckets of money in it to finish,repair the car completely to the tune of IIRC nearly $20-25k. Now the car is prefect to the owners liking...Priceless..

here's a couple of pics.

My point is that find the car you like for a fair price as no matter what you won't make money flipping the car. If you buy one done, check it over carefully as it might not be done the way you want. This is why alot of us do our own work or have the work done for us the way we want.

Paid $4500 for mine in 1999, but it was a basket case not a runner. You can see what I started with in my blog. (haven't been able to update my blog since software changes here, for some reason). By the way, plan on spending at least twice what you expect to.

Ken - mirrors my thought process for going to a Suby vice 2.2/2.4/2.7 Porsche conversion! More hp, somewhat less weight, less expense and easier to maintain a modern engine.

Ken there has been a great (in my opinion) conversion 6 at carshowing.com that he is taking offers on below his asking price. i think he has put a lotta work into this one. g.luck!... frank

I just bought my 914-6 #200 for $9k. It was a total time capsule that has no mads at all and was in storage since 77. The car needs everything but I will do it the way I want and have a fresh car to drive. As far as stock engine, these guys keep saying that stock is worth more but it is more than boring to drive a stock 914-6 with 110hp. You can always save the stock engine to sell along with the car when the time comes.

I am transfering my 275hp 3.2L Motronic engine and wild modified suspension/brakes from my 4cyl conversion. My car will appear mostly stock but with 15x7 fuchs (talked myself outta flares), but the modified 6 will beat many turbo 911s and just be an overall blast to drive.

The 914-6 cars still are not very valuable. When talking appriciation I would have to refer you guys to my 68 Camaro Z28 that I bought for $12k and sold at the last Barrett Jackson for $86k (with some costly work of course). Unfortunatly there is no stock 914-6 that will sell for over $40k, I wouldn't think... at least not yet.