Okay, got my fogs to work. Just needed to rotate the glass/bulb housing about 1mm clockwise 35w bulbs...hmm...not very bright...maybe I'll put 55w in later. Oh, to remove the glass bezel you undo the retaining screw at the base, pry the bottom of the bezel away from the housing, then lift the bottom up and swing away from the top. The top has a catch on the inside that the bezel hooks on to (very much like a stock VW T3 headlight trim ring is attached). I'm also in the process of disconnecting them from the headlights so they operate independantly with the ignition switch ON.

Now, attached is a scan of two relays. The silver one came with the car, has part number 111 941 583A on it, and when installed the low beams are on. When I hook up the new relay (supposed to be a replacement unit) the lights do not come on. With either unit I cannot switch between hi/low beams. You can see the circuit diagram on them and they are different (great). I did try jumpering 56 to 30 and still no success.

Any ideas? Why doesn't the new black unit work? Does it sound like my hi/low column switch is bad (and how hard is it to replace)? I do have several shop manuals to help if I need to replace the column switch but, geez, I really don't want to...

They look like different relays. What year car?

Disscussion on another board (Pbird)




And



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....threadid=130293

M

Thanks, sort of...

One guy said that the clip is not a ground. Judging from the diagram on the relay body I would agree.

Uhm, I really don't want yet another BBS/forum to belong to. Sheesh! This one, the VW Vortex and the Type III email list I'm on keep me plenty busy. Anybody here have that secretive, alternate wiring diagram that dude was talking about?

Like my signature states, 1973

Did you try prying it open and filing the contacts. Fixed mine in 20 minutes and it should be good for another 30 years.

No, I spent half the day disassembling my drill so I could replace the damn chuck! Actually, it was the assembly -- and the damn brushes -- that took 3/4 of my time.

If I can fix a drill I'm sure I can tear apart and gently clean up the internals I'll give her a go in the morn. Thanks!

Air-Cooled,

I think to make the new black relay work, you should connect pin 56 to pin 30. But, I don't think the problem is in the relays. Either your dimmer switch in the wheel is not working or one of the two arc shaped plugs next to the steering coulum are not fully seated. (You have to stand on your head looking up at the steering wheel to see these two plugs).

You can test the relays by touching a ground to pin S (the YW/RD wire). If the relay then works, you will know that the dimmer switch or the mini-plugs on the steering coulum are the likely failure points.

Phil

I did test both relays by applying power like you said and they both clicked.

Yes, but did the lights go from dim to high beam & vis=versa? If so, then as I had said, you have two places to look. The easiest are making sure to two plugs next to the steering coulum are fully seated. If they are, you will likely be looking at pulling the wheel.

Phil

Toby,

For the relay, S is the ground that controls the relay motor. When you pull on your hi/lo switch, you are grounding S, for a second or so. This transfer power for 56 to 56a or 56 to 56b and it stays that way until you ground S again. This is an interesting relay with a memory. The replacement relay needs power to 56 and 30 where the old relay had an internal jumper.

To check your switch, see if the wire to S goes to ground when you pull on your hi/lo switch.

I just rewired my 914 and thought my hi/lo switch was broken until I figuired out this relay.

Philip

PhilipT and all,
Thanks man, that helped a lot! I grounded at the steering column plug and everything worked like it should. So my issue lies within the steering column

Got the fogs wired up so they will come on whenever the ignition switch is on regardless of headlights.