Car was wired for the 283 with all standard components down to a stock Chevy starter (Jaide kit). external coil, resister, etc.

My "Continous improvement plan" was to bolt in a built 357, HEI dist with high volt integral coil, Renegade high torque starter, and high amp alt. Of course I've missplaced all the component instructions and Renegade wants to sell their $200 harness so I went and researched this with varying information.

HEI.
I have an HEI with integral coil. There are only two connections, Battery and Tach

BATT
1. From what I understand this connection replaces a resister and must to be 12 or 10 GA with constant 12 volts at key ON. Can the Black/Red wire from the 12 pin connector handle this GA? I suspect it needs to go direct to the ignition.
2. Do I still need the #2 connection from the Alternator to this +?
3. Do I still need the "R" connection from the starter solenoid to this +? I've read the original system uses this 'bypass wire' to get 12 volts during cranking so it shouldn't be needed for the HEI.

TACH just (Blk / Purple) from the 12 pin connector to negative, correct?

What are the connections on the HT starter? The positive must be the large center stud under the blue boot but which are the S and R? I only see one connector.

Which are the #1 and #2 studs on the alternator?

I'm not sure who wired this plug on the relay board since it is different from the V8 manual...

Yes, GM HEI distributors require a full 12volts. Don't use a resistor in the circuit. Also "Chevy Power: The official Chevrolet Performance Guide" reccomends a dedicated wire from battery power to the distributor, a wire not shared with anything else. I have mine setup like that and it works great.

Mike T

Run battery power direct to the coil, it must have at least 12 vdc, otherwise you'll have issues. The divorced coil distrubutors, I believe, were later styles used mostly with CCC engines... Or older trucks/vans... If it is a CCC type dist, it won't work as anticipated.

There was a thread a while back on the MCML about the intergrated coil dizzy vs the divorced coil, and IIRC, the consensus was that the intergal coil was more reliable.

Ignition modules tend to burn up quickly also if you don't put em in right, with the thremal grease. A few guys I know carry a spare in the glove box, easy enough to change on the road if need be.

I'll look at my Aerocoupe on the way out for details if you'd like, for a CCC dist/coil. (There's an extra plug (5Pin?) on the dist body, I think that's the difference...)

Mike,

Where did you run this dedicated wire? (three wires in the connector from the body to the cap but two at the cap.)

My dist connection:

Geez, my bad, I wasn't awake when I read that appearently... I thought you had a divorced coil. For "testing" purposes, you can just use crimped (and insulated, tape or what have you) female spade connectors, and run it directly to the battery + post. You may be able to buy the pigtail at a parts store, of you can clip one off at a salvage yard.

Before I went to the LT1 in my '78 Monte, I had just used a 14 GA wire with a crimped end for the tach. Just use something bigger 10 or 12 GA, and you'll be good to go.

Typically the brown wire is the negative (tack) , black is the ground and red Pos voltage (nothing new there). If you are going to run the wire straight to the battery I surely would use a relay powered by the ignition key. You wont have any noise/draws there.

2 wires at the cap? You likely have the two outside circuits, there should be a ground circuit there. Its a bent steel peace which fits under the coil at one of the bolt downs and bends in to a spade male in the cap just like the other two.

My car retains none of the original 914 electricals. Wires, relays etc. It's a race only car.
I ran a wire right off the battery to a fuse block and direct power to a dedicated toggle switch for ignition.

Mike T

My dist connection:


wouldn't the Black off the stock 12 pin work or is the GA not large enough? I used the 12 GA Yellow for the starter. All RH wiring is off the 14 pin plug bypassing the relay board...