All RH parts: extended shift bar, engine support bar, water pump, harmonic balancer, and belt. Engine bar is hard mounted up to the stock mounts so upward adjustment is not possible without major rework. My only thought is to remove the joint. Will that stress the bar?

Scott @ RH was glad I contacted him but still hasn't replied with suggestions.

Mine is the same way.

It doesnt rub fyi. It LOOKS like it... but it doesnt

Flipping the water pump and alternator around helps I think....

It was a priority when I put it in... Its never rubbed.

Andrew

Tailshift car I see.. did you replace the "stock mounts" with the late u shaped steel pieces? I assume that the renegade bar is designed for the late setup. I'm not 100% sure, but I think that your engine will end up lower if you use the rubber mounts at the ends of the bar.

I had the same problem. Switched to solid 911 mounts instead of the stock ons on my 72, mine were sagging and letting the engine sit too low in the front.
I think this is a good setup since the chevy mounts are already rubber, no need for 2 sets of rubber on the same assembly.

Mark

This is a early tub (see adapter bushing for firewall)

I'm betting they didnt install the solid steel plates out in the ears for the cross bar.

It is sitting on old worn out factory 914 1.7 rubber mounts..LOL (maybe)


B

Royce,
The trans mounts are solid and I did try to raise them with little affect to the front engine position. BTW, it's a side shifter.

Mark,
This engine bar mount is solid to the body only relying on the stock GM engine to bar isolator mounts. I don't want to add anything or the engine will sit lower and the bar will be inside the belt.

Andrew,
RH is designed for w/p left and alternator right. I already switched this from the original Jaide set up. As I recall the alternator belt was close too since it's near the crank h/b (pulley)...

thanks guys but I need more fixes!

Oh. This is your "other" car.

Trim the ends of the cross bar. Make it sit higher on the outside solid mounts.

Should be able to hacksaw off 1/4 inch of that bar and raise the engine. Pay close attention to the air cleaner clearance.


B

Show us the cross bar mounts to the chassis.


B

Hello Brad,

I haven't changed the plates since they/you worked on it a couple of years ago. I did change the Jaide bar to the RH bar which had some geometry changes but I "assumed" it would fit properly with all RH parts.

Felix,

did you buy NEW plates for the bar to mount too or did you find a used set?

I'm not clear on what you currently have out on the ends of the cross bar.


B

I like how you said "Hello Brad" ..like you didnt really want to have to deal with me..

B

Not so, just surprised to hear from you

I believe they are solid plates and the bar is mounted right up to them. I suppose I could grind the tops a 1/4". That's the good thing about the RH bar, you can grind for clearance. I already did this on the engine side to move it .25" back from the firewall.

Nix that idea, the shift bar is virtually resting on the engine bar.

I meant it's a tailshift chassis.. meaning "stock mounts" would be rubber. I'm basically saying the same thing brad is, but he says it better, so I'll shut up now.

Felix:

Did you also use rubber the engine mounts furnished by Renegade? I used both the the bar and the mounts from Renegade and even had enough room left over to install the rubber boot over the universal joint (but I had to fold it over and hold the fold with a zip-tie). There is a slight rub mark on the top of the boot from the belt - probably due to expansion at high rpm. Otherwise, no problems.

It looks to me from your picture of the two engine mount bars side-by-side, that there is a difference in height between the two. An engine mount that does not match the Renegade bar may have lowered your engine just enough to cause the contact.

I think that I saw the same mounts that Renegade sold me at Kragen.

I don't think that you can successfully elimiate the universal joint, because I think it is essential to the shifter geometry. I believe that the universal joint uses the small angle difference between the rod in the tunnel and the rod in the engine compartment to change the side-to-side motion of the shifter to rotation of the shifter rod system.

Felix,

you could replace the joint with a WEVO style setup.

You may not be able to fix this:

The hole for the shift rod is UP in the chassis compared to a 73+ 914.

Centerline to centerline between the two tubs appears to be different. I'll have a 74 on the lift tonight..I'll shoot a pic and see if there is a difference.


B

Nick,

Yes the difference is you can only use a short mount on the RH engine support bar. I had a Prothane "tall" mount on the Jaide engine bar but decided to change to a RH bar which could only fit a GM "short" mount. I only know of two mounts like the design you posted. The mount ears are either "long" or "short".