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nine14cats
I've been looking at tow vehicles for my race car trailer. I'm thinking a Class A or C motorhome in the 27 to 29 foot range for a Class C and the 29 to 32 foot range for a Class A. With the gas crunch there is a ton of stock out there. I'd love a diesel but my budget for newer one won't allow it. So it's the 454, 460 or Triton V10.

Right now the class A's are my favorite, but I have to go back to 1994 to stay in budget. With a class C, I can find 1997's easily and up to 2000's on occasion.

I've been told that pulling a trailer my size requires that the overhang for a class A or C be 11 feet or less from the rear axles (according to Winnebago). My trailer is a 19 foot Timberwolf (Haulmark type) dual axle with electric brakes. Loaded with my car it's a tad shy of 5000lbs. It has electric brakes and a weight distributing hitch.

The Ford big block V8's and V10's have a higher tow capacity rating than the Chevy 454.

Anyone towing something similar? I'd like to get impressions about the experience.

Thanks,

Bill P.
JoeSharp
Bill: The toughest hill you find is at Laguna. I didn't make it but I wasn't ready for it. Had I known what I know now I might have been able to get up it. 28' 454 pulling the Moncha, you saw it. Other than that I don't think you can keep me from driving it anywhere. But if I had my druthers, I'd be in a diesel pusher.
:PERMAGRIN: Joe
DanT
Bill,
You will find the tow ratings on almost all of the older class As and Cs to be in the 3,500# range.
The hitches on most of those are only rated at 3,500#

Even if you find one that will fit into the GCVW the hitch will probably need to be upgraded.

That is one of the reasons you rarely see an older class A or C pulling an enclosed trailer.

you need to find the smallest, lightest class A or C that fits into your budget and has the amenities you want.
In the sizes you are looking at the class Cs and As all use the same basic GVW chassis be it A or C, so the lighter the coach you find the more difference you will have from the GCVW and the tow rating.

Also the class Cs that are longer have stretched wheel bases. They have usually been stretched by the RV manufacturer not the chassis manufacturer.
Check online to find factory stock wheel bases to be sure you get a coach that has not been stretched by coach Mfg. That is part of the reason the tow ratings are only at 3,500#.
nine14cats
Thanks Dan. That's the type of info I need.

I talked with Fleetwood and Winnebago and basically they said that around 1995-1996 was the time period when the chassis were sent out with 5000lbs hitches. Before that, some of the class A's were, but not too many class C's.

The frames that were stretched were prone to cracking versus the ones built out of the box.

Where can I find the info on the older coaches? The factory guys weren't that helpful, and coaches may have had the 3500lb hitches replaced at a later time by 5000lb hitches, but the frames may be suspect.

One thing I'm thinking of is staying newer, since the factory for both Fleetwood and Winnebago say they are fine for towing my trailer. The problem is that I really want a class A, but in my budget it looks like a Class C is what I can afford if I go for a 1996 or newer.

Bill P.
r_towle
I have a 1983 Class C, 24 footer...
I have toa gree on the frame.

My main frame is u channel, probably 7 inches high, and 2-3 inches wide...
The extension to the frame is a u channel 2*4
It not really enough for the hitch I put on...but I only tow an open trailer..

Look underneath the back...If you buy one, budget 1k in custom welding and you will be fine.
Get a good welder, not a mig...get a guy who does truck bodies..the dump truck guys know how to make it nice and strong.

As far as the motor...the 460 has more than enough power...
And I agree get the shortest one you can deal with..its less weight, and its easier to park..

Rich
DanT
Bill,
I have been around RVs most of my life.

If you want a rig that will pull your trailer, not break the bank and have sleeping for at least 4 adults comfortably....stay with the class C.
Cheaper to get into, more sleeping capacity in most cases, and will perform all the functions you want. Also, most of the class As have custom windshields. Try to get one of them replaced in a hurry....
Class Cs are just cut away vans with heavy duty chassis and as such the windshields and other cab equipment can be picked up at just about any ford or chevy dealership.
As far as what chassis, the years you are looking at are almost all exclusively Ford.
Chevy class C chassis tend to be used for the smaller lighter coaches since they ony put in the 6.0L motor these days.
Check the Fleetwood site. The chevy class Cs are all rated at only 350# tongue weight and 3,500# towing.

I have been contemplating replacing my 28' camping trailer with a motorhome. I like the class Cs unless you are going to step up to a really large upscale gas coach or a diesel pusher. my two cents. biggrin.gif
nine14cats
So maybe keep it 27 ft or under? I do like the rear bedroom versus the overhead cab be with kitchen in the back....but I think the 21 to 24 footers have that layout.

Bill P.
DanT
with newer units you will probably need to stay above 24-25 feet to have a rear bed. Be carefull with some of those units as the bed is smaller than a full size and the corner is usually cut off. (only for very short folks.)
Also keep in mind that a couch and or barrel chair(s) are also nice to hang out in the evenings...
Make sure you get a nice sized generator for all your other goodies and trailer stuff.

Bill shoot me a PM I might have some ideas for you depending on your budget.

smile.gif

KenH
Stay with 27' or less. A 27'er will go almost any where and not have problems on narrow roads and streets.

My 1990 winnie is 8' from the axle to the hitch. I broke the frame twice pulling the 914 on a steel trailer. 4000# of trailer & car means about 400#s of tongue weight pulling down the back frame extension.

I would look for the shortest unit to minimize the rear frame extension as well as one that is "factory" rated for the load.

All so, before you buy it make sure you can stand in the shower and that there is room to sit on the potty with the door closed.

Ken
nine14cats
Thanks for the advice Ken, I'll do that. (All potty's are not created equal beer3.gif )

laugh.gif

Wow...lot's to learn...

Bill P.
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