Is there a tech article on replacing the tube seals? How hard is the repair? Can I do it myself? There are two that definatly need replacing!

Any info would help! I am losing about 1/4 quart per day and it smokes bad when I drive it!

It is a 2.0L stock 6!

Jeff

yes, you can do it yourself. no, you can't just replace the seals unless you're pulling down the entire top end. you crush the old tubes with ChannelLock pliers and throw them away, then replace them with expandable oil return (not pushrod...) tubes. all The Usual Suspect places have replacement 911 oil return tubes. i've seen it done - having the right tool to press the tube into the crank case and cam box helps a lot. it sure looked easier doing it on the lift - you need some strength to muscle the tubes into position and expand them properly so the circlips seat.

i'm sure there are technical articles in the archives of the various sites...

there is way more room if the heat exchangers are out, but the technician doing the session said sometimes it's actually easier to be able to leverage against the exhaust for some of the return tubes, so it appears to be a wash.

there's also an oil fitting in the area of one of the return tubes that is chronic for self-loosening and leaking. it takes a cheap aluminum seal washer but it's a major PITA - probably impossible without removong the oil return tubes. if you're already in there for that, i'd see about replacing that sealing washer too...

Pelican (for instance) has expandable oil return tubes shown for $21 ea.

der sixers dont have pushrods...

That being say you can get replacement oil return tubes, about $90 for a set of four.

Its not "easy" to replace them though....

I stand corrected!

colapsible

I read this thread and it said the colapsible tubes are not worth doing on a 4 but you think they are good on a 6?

Jeff

Jeff,

You only have 2 options with a /6

Pull the motor


or


buy the collapse type oil tubes for a 6

Yes they are best for a six on a four you can pull the heads, slap some new tubes in and bolt it all up...

on a six taking the top end apart is some major coin...you have to retime the cams etc...

with the collapsable tubes.... pry out the old leaking tubes..... and replace with the collapsable ones.

Yeap so get those replacement tubes to replace your leaky ones

Actually just find out which one is leaking and replace just that one!!

on a T-IV you don't even have to pull the heads ! you can replace the pushrod tube seals by only removing the rocker stands. definitely no comparison.

I just happen to have a set (4) colapseable tubes. Nice shape....cheep.
I used em' on by 2.4T for about a year.

Are you offering them to me? I am interested if you are! How much?

Jeff

Whall sure, I wasn't just bragging
Sent PM.

I recently did this repair on a 3.0L 911SC. I had to drop the exhaust (easy if the nuts come off and you don't break a stud), remove the old tubes (very easy with channelocks) and install the new tubes. You'll need the circlip pliers to expand the circlip and get it into the groove. These are available at a good hardware/tool store. Installing the new tubes is a major pain until you can get leverage on them to fit into the head and case. The best way I found is to put a screw-type hose clamp on each of the two sections and twist a large screwdriver or prybar between the clamps to force the tubes into position. Without some way to force the tubes into their sockets you can't get enough leverage to get the tubes and the seals to seat.

Carl