I'm on the final leg of putting my gearbox back together and all is going pretty much OK for a first-timer.
I popped out the old output shaft seal and find it has a nice lip to fit into the casing but the replacement does not have this lip. Pelican mentions this and I suppose it's OK but without the lip there is nothing to keep the seal from moving into the gearbox. I thought I better ask if this is right because I really don't want to have to pull things apart again.

Since I have your attention is there any advice for easily torqing the the 30mm nut on the end of the pinion shaft and the castle nut on the end of the drive shaft? I don't suppose a pipe wrench is a good idea. Didn't think so. I have the sockets but need to hold everything in place while I tighten them. Also there is very little room to get a socket on the castle nut.

Thanks.

Just put the seal in its fine.

Put the tranny into 2 gears at once to "lock it" so you can torque the assembly without using a monkey wrench. Do this with a large screwdriver before you install the shift forks by engauging 2nd and 5th gears. Nothing will turn then.

Pretty much right, EXCEPT you have to use either the fixture or insert the cluster into the case to prevent the shafts from spreading apart under the force of torquing. The mainshaft is torqued without the operating sleeve installed, or with a modified sleeve (with some of the outer teeth ground off). It all needs to be torqued up before the forks and rails are positioned and secured. The Cap'n

with the Cap'n. It is very important to have the shafts stabilized when doing this in either the jig or the case. A looong time ago I learned this as I sheared a tooth off of one of the gears when the shafts spread and slipped while torquing. Not a good thing to do.

Do not install the shift forks yet and select 5th and 2nd like Geoff said.