anyone remember the little 1.7 with the 70 psi fuel pressure? by passed the pressure regulator...no change. ran the return into a gas can (thank you dr. evil) pressure dropped to 29. replaced all the hoses except for the ones in the tunnel. hooked it up ..70 psi. tried the gas can trick again this time pressure went to 45 psi. and the glass on the guage cracked. did i miss something? or am i looking at replacing the lines in the tunnel? also these readings are with just the pump running as the car will not start. i need more help. whats the game plan?

I just had to replace my fuel pump because I was having the opposite problem; Zero fuel pressure. The pump was running, but I replaced it because the valve on the send side of the pump that bypasses the entire fuel system was stuck open and was constantly pumping back to the tank. I've never heard of your problem, but I would think that if you're valve is stuck closed and pumping EVERYTHING to the fuel loop, then that might have something to do with it. You might try shooting some carb cleaner into that valve and minipulating it, or trying a different pump if possible. Pumps REALLY expensive new, but sometimes you can get used ones for a decent price from someone who's converted to carbs. Just a couple thoughts from another "Budding 914 Mechanic".
Mark D.

P.S. Suicide is NOT and option. I've learned the hard way, what doesn't kill you, just hurts like hell!

I knew that damn return line was clogged!

Unfortunately, I am no expert so somebody else is going to have to tell you what to do here. Sounds like you need to replace those tunnel lines though.


Or....just thinking out loud here.....duct tape a big gas can to the passenger seat and run the return line into that. Do not smoke in the car.


chef....this is the last leg of your journey (until something else breaks).

my coach told me, what doesnt kill you makes you stronger.

i said no. it makes you pissed off and less determined LOL

think about it for a sec.

Lets say that the pump might put out 75 PSI on a good day...
If the return line is blocked...you would see all 75 PSI...

I would say, if it was me...I would remove the tank...open up both ends of the tunnel lines and shoot compressed air through there to ensure that there is no blockage...

If that is cool, yo need to look at the tank now...there are two fittings...make sure they are not clogged...

You seem to be sucking fuel from the tank, but you cannot return it...look at the entire fuel circuit and look for something stuck in the loop.

Rich

Damn, I really need to learn to say everything in one post. Three replies in five minutes. Anyways, you can test that valve I was talking about by unhooking the line to the fuel loop and the one back to the tank. Put your thumb over the port to the fuel loop and have someone turn the key on(no need to crank it over). You should get fuel out of the side port. If you don't, I would think that valve is bad. If so, I would start suspecting the center lines, as you do. Sorry, but I try to explain in great detail because I don't know how much you know.
Mark D...... Again

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Or....just thinking out loud here.....duct tape a big gas can to the passenger seat and run the return line into that. Do not smoke in the car.


i should have posted pics. but when i first bought the car i took out the tank and reepoxyed it . had to wait 4 days for it to dry but had to move the car so i filled a wiper washer gallon with gas ran the lines to it and put it in the engine bay. always smoke when i drive so i took the top off and did'nt wear a seat belt in the hopes of being trown clear in the blast. now lets get back to my problem how do you run the friekin lines?

Slowly but surely you are tackling this, you 'll be driving before you know it.

sounds like you almost have it licked!!!

Now you just need to bring it autoxing to see what breaks so you can fix it.

Yo man, I know you moved yout fuel pump up front, right? If so did you pinch a line up there when you installed the hoses onto the tank. It is common.
R Towle pretty much summed up what you need to do next. The gas can trick was just to isolate which part of the system would have the occlusion (blockage). I do not know how your system is set up since it is different form stock so I can not really help you until you either draw a pic of your hose routing (better) or explain it (painful).

Simple summary:
-You are getting pressure so: Fuel is making it to the circuit.
-You still have high pressure with the pressure regulator bypassed so: the blockage is past the regulator inthe circuit.
-When you unplug the return and run it into a gas can you drop pressure so: the blockage is in the return part of the circuit.


I bet that there is epoxy blocking the return

If your pump is inthe front and you are disconnecting the return line forward of the center tunnel then the blockage is not in the center tunnel. It would be a pretty substantial blockage to cause a 75psi (all available pressure) jump.

Oh ya,

That which does not kill you only mames and criples you.

You should only smoke when you are on fire.

They can kill you, but they can't eat you.

Speaking from personal experience, removig the gas filler neck and fuel gauge sender is very easy to do and will allow you to better see inside the fuel tank. I can reach my skinny arm into the gas tank, into the baffle area. Had to in order to scoop out the years of rust the PO left me

Here's a small pictorial on removing the fuel sender:
http://www.icbm.org/cmgallery/thumbnails.php?album=58

I have had to use a coat hanger to clear a return line in the past.

Several other items that are important to use (as mentioned above)

Compressed air
Brake clean (4-5 cans with nozzle)

This sounds like a kink to me.

B