I'm dismantling my trans and have been able to get the pinion shaft to move but not the input shaft.

What do I do? Bigger brass hammer? How hard should I hit it? The pinion shaft moved quite easily so I expected the same from the input shaft.

What gives (unlike my mainshaft)?

big brass hammer!


keep the nut on it to protect the threads and hit it. untorque it first of course.

REAL tranny technicians use a press, and remove both shafts at the same time.

The Cap'n

why brass? softer metal?

I am just a shadetree mechanic with no skills, but whatever works is good.

Just don't wreck the threads!!!

Shadetree tools yield shadetree results. See the recent thread about mangling the threads on a mainshaft.

The Cap'n

Heat the outside of the gear with MAP gas to loosen it, then whack it with a brass hammer. A lead hamemr will likely disintegrate.

Also, you can try soaking it with PB blaster for over night.

....if you dont have a press. I love my press

Just dont booger up the end of the shaft or the nut and be preparred to potentially destroy the $130 bearing around the shaft.

Oh and

You mean I'm in a forest?

Thanks for all the replys! I totally forgot about the heat and breakaway options. I'm going to purchase a press, but seeing how easy the pinion shaft was moving, I thought the mainshaft would move-out with the same ease.

Thanks. When I get home I'll 'bang' that out.

I'm taking this one apart and re-assebling it for fun. I've two others that I'm going to rebuild. One for me and the other for whoever is in need.

From all the info I've recieved, these are pretty easy tranny's to rebuild. I've got a friend who's a technician and has completed the Jerry Woods transmission course and gave me his manuals and notes to guide me when he's not around.

And thanks for the welcome.

Some of us just have to do with the tools that we have on hand. I did mention to watch out not to damage the threads. Its one thing to tap something off, another thing to beat the crap out of it wrecking it.

This isn't rocket science.

I believe so...

Yes, brass because it is soft, but not too soft like lead.

I have done the shade tree method many times and as long as you are mindfull of what you are doing it works just fine.

The drive shaft is often a real bitch to remove.

Might wanna have that bearing on hand. Beating on a ball bearing (and that's what you're doing) is gonna damage the races and the already fragile cage. The Cap'n

Maybe I should just bring the assembly in to my workplace and have one of my techs do some 'government work' for me. We've got presses and such here.

Is the intermediate plate strong enough to deal with the shaft being pressed out?

How much of a pain is it to get back in? Is this going to require an act of Congress?

In is way easier because you will have cleaned it up. The main sticking point is the little bits of crap that get in between the gear and the shaft acting as teeth holding it on. Just clean and you should be a lot better off. I agree that beating on the bearing = replacement.

yeah, most (75%) of the time that bearing is toast anyway due to low oil levels.

Pretty cheap to install and do it right the first time.

Just finished my heat and beat session...alas to no avail!
I'll definately be doing this at work tomorrow.



Thanks for the help

Kev

Soak it with penetrating oil at least.

DAMN! That press thing is the dogs danglers!

I should've done that days ago. Why didn't you guys call me before I posted this stupid thread and straightened me out?

Well, this evening I'll be working on getting the gear sets off.

Thanks for the help and advice.

The gear sets come right off, you are through the rough part....the next will be assembly.

Just an FYI, dont mix up the thrust washers. The books do not specify which thickness goes where usually and this will keep you form posting about why things did not line up.

I slowly disassemble the gear shafts and lay out everything is a long row so its all there.

Thanks again folks. My next post will be about the reassembly!


Until then