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DORIGTT

Can anyone tell me if I upgrade to the aluminum intermediate plate if I can reuse the bearings I have that are good sad.gif

Does anyone have good pics of the dog-teeth in profile and detail so I can see if mine are o.k.

Thanks beerchug.gif
DORIGTT

Bump..

QUOTE(DORIGTT @ Jul 14 2006, 12:37 PM) *

Can anyone tell me if I upgrade to the aluminum intermediate plate if I can reuse the bearings I have that are good sad.gif

Does anyone have good pics of the dog-teeth in profile and detail so I can see if mine are o.k.

Thanks beerchug.gif

Cap'n Krusty
You can reuse the bearings if they can be removed intact. DO NOT mix up the races! If the dog teeth are rounded on the tip, or there's erosion along the surface just below the tip, they're junk. Look at the 5th gera dog teeth for comparison. The Cap'n
Aaron Cox
i have a new 911 first gear dogteeth i can take a pic of if you need
So.Cal.914
If they are the original bearings and you are tearing it down, replace.
DORIGTT
QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Jul 14 2006, 03:02 PM) *

i have a new 911 first gear dogteeth i can take a pic of if you need


Thanks Aaron. I would appreciate seeing the teeth from different angles. I already was informed by a good friend that if the synchros are smooth and shiny, that means replacement time, but the gears we weren't too sure of.



Thanks alot folks.
bondo
You're resetting the pinion depth, right?
DORIGTT
Yes I am going to reset the pinion. The AL intermediate plate itself wil throw off the original specs.

How much fun is that?

I take it that I should go pick up that bottle of machinist dye eh?
Cap'n Krusty
You have the fixture to set the depth? Bring the guy from your bank when you find one for sale, IF you ever do. BIG bank. The Cap'n
bondo
QUOTE(DORIGTT @ Jul 15 2006, 09:19 AM) *

Yes I am going to reset the pinion. The AL intermediate plate itself wil throw off the original specs.

How much fun is that?

I take it that I should go pick up that bottle of machinist dye eh?



That's not the right way to do it. You need to measure the distance from the centerline of the carrier bearing races to the end of the pinion... to a very precise degree. There are special tools for doing this, and they aren't cheap.

You *might* be able to get it close by mounting a dial indicator in the case reading off the end of the pinion, with all the original parts (including gaskets) installed. Then swap intermediate plates and see where you're at.
DORIGTT
So what I'm hearing is 'send the trans to someone who knows what the heck they're doing' right?
Cap'n Krusty
Put it this way. I went to Porsche school on these, did a number of them at the dealership during my apprenticeship, and have done a TON of them in the ensuing 33 years. I send jobs involving the ring and pinion to a specialist. I can neither afford nor justify owning the tools. The Cap'n
TimT
I set the pinion depth in my racecar just using prussian blue.. I know it isnt the correct way, as I dont have the correct tools.. Again this is a racecar, I dont mind if the r&p make s bit of noise and whines..I also havent had any reliabilty problems doing it this way.

For a street car your results may vary..

I see your kinda of centrally located, If you do decide to have a specialist do the transaxle. try Gary Fairbanks in Connecticut, or we use Brian Copan to build our GT3 RS gearboxes.
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