Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: Structural Foam
914World.com > The 914 Forums > 914World Garage
alpha434
Speculating on doing some rigorous longitudal reinforcement. Gonna open it up, put some metal in "like a pop-tart," Put some metal underneath it. Put some more on top. Make a real american sedan out of it. Haha. But while im in there, I was thinking that foam would be really light, and I could forget about the internal-cabin reinforcement.

So the question is..... What is out there. And where do I get it?
Andyrew
The only problem with the foam is it really sucks when you got moisture in the area, it will attract rust like flee's on poop....

Metal is heavy... Dont be adding too much. Check out the Engman long kit... You'll save yourself a lot of hastle...

Andrew
alpha434
Roger. But I'm set on using foam if I can get it. I'll seal it up really good, and do the whole shibang in a paint booth under a dryer if I have to. But I want some foam.
Rand
I'm with Andyrew. Foam = moisture trap. Closed cell or not, it can hold moisture against the metal. I understand the appeal of light weight material, but.... just remember, foam is the stuff on top the fluffy coffee drinks. Seriously, you know the outer structure is what matters. Foam is a filler. It might add some strength and maybe even quiet things down a little. But I'm for building the structure.
alpha434
Advice noted. But remember that once the longs are sealed, no moisture gets in or out. If there is none put in there, then there is none. If I seal the longs up with any moisture, foam or no foam. BAM! Rust. Doesn't matter.

Where do I get the foam?
dinomium
if longs are completely sealed then why do they rust from the inside out?
alpha434
I will seal the longs. That is my intention. And a portion of the longs came from the factory sealed. Moisture can get in there during the initial manufacture.

Where do I get data on structural foam?
dinomium
have ever heard of this thing called GOOGLE? It is totaly sweet! And by sweet I mean it kicks ass
McMark
Guys, this is ridiculous. You've said it. Foam is bad. Now if you can't tell him where to get structural foam, shut the f*ck up. Holy crap. What a friggin' broken record. dry.gif
dinomium
QUOTE(alpha434 @ Jul 16 2006, 12:23 AM) *

I will seal the longs. That is my intention. And a portion of the longs came from the factory sealed. Moisture can get in there during the initial manufacture.

Where do I get data on structural foam?

Unless you are building these in outerspace, atomspere WILL get in there.
dinomium
QUOTE(McMark @ Jul 16 2006, 12:32 AM) *

Guys, this is ridiculous. You've said it. Foam is bad. Now if you can't tell him where to get structural foam, shut the f*ck up. Holy crap. What a friggin' broken record. dry.gif

Mark, why didn't you tell him where to get foam?
alpha434
Alright. Here's the deal. I was just hoping that somebody happened to know where to get stuff that I could do it my self with.

Dino. You don't know. Shut the F*%@ up.

Rand. You aren't as stupid as Dino, so if you DO know something actually pertient, then please, feel free to spill the beans.

At least Andrew can take a hint and shut up when he's knows he's not helping. Thanks, Andrew.
alpha434
Thanks, McMark.
dinomium
You are SUCH A FUCKING TOOL! I have built many real word sandwich items for marine and building construction so eat me tird boy!

And where do you get off telling ANYBODY to shut up? You spout such rankor that your opinions are touted as that of the court jestor. Now be a good little boy and go off to beddie bye now.
alpha434
Then stop being a dick and spill it! If you REALLY think that it's such a bad idea, and you hate me sooooooo fucking much, then give me the info and let me fuck up my own car on my own fucking time.
Rand
Sorry Alpha.
I have nothing on the structural foam.
Didn't mean to stir up sh*t.
I guess my point was, I thought it was better to build a strong skeleton than deal with foam.
dinomium
QUOTE(alpha434 @ Jul 16 2006, 12:48 AM) *

Then stop being a dick and spill it! If you REALLY think that it's such a bad idea, and you hate me sooooooo fucking much, then give me the info and let me fuck up my own car on my own fucking time.

Oh I think not. I will keep all of my knowin of the foamy building stuff up in my heed

you can go pound sand!
alpha434
Rand, it's not a big deal. Recent developements have been made in the area of structural foam polymers. Now the crap holds up sky scrapers in third world countries. I understand that it is not as strong or as conventional as steel for my purposes, BUT foam is much stronger than air. I can fill the longs with either. Foam seems like it can do a good job for relitively little work, if I can spray it.

And if my 914 floats afterwards, then damnit! Great!
Brett W
OK for ignorant out there. There is a structural two part foam that is used in chassis applications. Many Ford SUVs use it in the rockers panels and B-pillars. Although in these applications it is applied right after the car comes through the E-coat tank. This is not "Great Stuff" the pipe insulating foam.

There are many different "weights". You have to be carefull when putting this stuff in the chassis. Make sure it has some "breathing" holes other wise you can pop the spot welds.

This from an article in Sport and Compact car.

QUOTE
Foam-Filling the Chassis
In any high-performance car, it is impossible to make the chassis too stiff. The stiffer the chassis, the higher its natural frequency, making the energy imparted to it by bumps less likely to excite the body's structure. A stiffer chassis enables the use of stiffer springs and shocks without hurting the ride. This is because a stiff, non-flexing chassis transfers more force into the suspension where it can be dissipated by the springs and shocks instead of transferring the force to the occupants. A stiff chassis is also more responsive to roll rate tuning for balancing understeer and oversteer. This is one of the reasons why automotive engineers are continually investigating ways to stiffen chassis without adding weight.

In a final bit of reengineering to stiffen the body, we injected the chassis with catalyzed rigid structural polyurethane foam. Structural foam, in the 2 lb per cubic foot density that we used, can stiffen chassis members up to 40 percent.

Higher densities of foam can increase stiffness by up to 300 percent. Since we cannot retool custom parts to redo the Z's body, we figured that this would be an excellent, low-cost way of greatly increasing chassis stiffness. Injecting foam is not a new technique for chassis stiffening. The Infiniti Q45 uses this sort of foam in some of its chassis members to increase stiffness, as do a few other premium cars. In fact, the foam we chose is the foam recommended to repair damaged Q45s.

To get the correct foam for our project, we contacted Art Goldman, Foamseal's automotive product manager and author of an SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) paper on the use of structural foam for the stiffening of automotive unibody structures. We used Foamseal's two-component foam kit, p/n 11-22 to fill the main members of the chassis. Like we mentioned earlier, Foamseal is the supplier that I-CAR, a national certification group for quality auto repair, recommends for the repair of damaged, foam-filled chassis. The Foamseal kit uses a two-part catalyzed polyurethane foam, which quickly cures into rigid, waterproof, closed-cell foam. To prep the car, we carefully masked off all painted areas anywhere where the foam could drip. As this sort of foam is a thermosetting catalyzed plastic, we realized it could be icky if it spilled on paint or any part of the car's interior. This foam is nasty stuff. It is impervious to all known solvents and cleaners.

Rubber gloves must be worn. Get some of it on your hands and it will stay there for more than 3 weeks--don't ask how we know. Do not get this stuff on your paint. Wear old clothes; we ruined ours while learning how to handle the product. We injected the foam into the rocker panels and frame rails of Project Z through existing bolt and drain holes. When injected, the foam reacts like shaving cream and quickly expands to fill the empty space. You can judge how much foam to add by watching its expansion progress through some of the holes. Once injected, the foam expands and begins to cure in about a minute so you need to work fast and plan how you inject the foam before you start.

The life of the foam kit is limited to a few hours once the seal is broken. We filled all of the Z's unibody frame members using five foam kits. When foaming a chassis, you must remember the wires and other lines that pass through the chassis must be relocated or they will be entombed forever.

We were amazed at how this simple procedure improved the performance of the car. The chassis now almost feels like it has a roll cage. A sloped driveway can be driven up sideways with nary a creak. Even though the Z already has a pretty tight chassis, it feels more solid. The ride has improved and road noise has been reduced noticeably. We bet that the car will be even more responsive to chassis tuning measures in the future. If you are a slalom racer, a road racer, have a lowered car or even just want a smoother ride; foaming is a worthy, easy-to-do modification. Foamseal has foams in densities as high as 10 lbs per square foot if you desire to make things even stiffer.

Do not--I repeat--do not attempt to use cheap, hardware-store canned foam. This is not the same thing, and if injected into your chassis, will form a gummy mass that won't dry. Foamseal foam is a professional grade foam, which although it is a little unforgiving to cleanup mistakes, has superior mechanical properties and catalytic curing so it will dry even in an enclosed space.


http://www.autobodynews.com/Sections/Aug05...es%20story.html

There are several companies that make this stuff. I just can't find the links I used to have on this stuff.

Yes it can improve your chassis rigidity, but you have to make sure there is no rust or all of it is dead before you look at this stuff.
swl
Gee guys. You have to learn to argue without resorting to name calling. Sometime this place feels like a school yard.

Personally I don't think foam in the longs is going to do much if anything to strengthen it. In boat building the foam is used to separate two outer sheets. those sheets bend easily but are very strong in compression and tension. With the foam separating the two sheets at a constant distance the bending motion gets translated into the sheet on the outside of the bend going into tension and the sheet on the inside going into compression. Result is a sheet that is much stiffer than the sum of it's three components. Our sail panels are a good example of where this can work

In a box beam you already have steel doing that separation. The foam might stop some buckling in the middle of each side but I dont know whether or not that will make a measurable difference It is going to be up to Alpha to document that.

BTW Ford, according to there commercials, use the foam to fight noise and vibration. And I'm sure it does a great job at that. The crash cell in my Smart does the same thing.

Sorry alpha - can't help you find foam. I use cedar as my core material. (in boats not cars LOL)
MecGen
Hey Hey Alpha

I googled it, lots of application info but no suppliers... WTF.gif
It definately would work for your application. If it comes in a recent autombile, it should be availible thru the Bodyshop suppliers, just not sure if 3M or similar companies would sell you the correct structure foam. I suspect it would be used in aviation also, maybe easier to find.

Good luck with it

Later
beerchug.gif
Brett W
Check www.eng-tips.com you may have to join to search.
Aaron Cox
arent the ford foam filled cars cured in an oven? the foam expands with heat.... i saw on the commercial
xsboost90
there was a post about this on www.rennlist.com on the 944 boards. Supposedly using foam in the rocker areas on a few cars - i believe one was a t-top Z improved structural rigidity by 40% !! I agree that if you do this you will have to make sure there is NO rust- i would open it up and POR15 the hell out of it then fill it with foam. The foams they are using today for structural support actually repel water-not like the old datsuns- and work very well.
3liter914-6
QUOTE(alpha434 @ Jul 16 2006, 02:49 AM) *

So the question is..... What is out there. And where do I get it?



Wow, long thread, must be a lot of good information in here. I haven't bothered to read it, but has anyone mentioned that foam'll attract moisture, yet? happy11.gif

j/k.

Here's what you're looking for: http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=79&

Be careful though, it goes in like Bruce Banner, but comes out like a very pissed off green fella. It'll rip your longs apart if you overfill.
Andyrew
You want da shit?

Heres da shit....

http://www.shopmaninc.com/

Best f/g and such supplyer I know...

You can get foam in different hardness... You can get it ROCK hard if you want... Heck, It WILL stiffen up your longs.. but the longjevity of it is compromised... and you dont know what heat will do to it.

Anyways. Here you go..

http://www.shopmaninc.com/foam.html
(dont say I didnt warn you)

ps.. I hope either you suck at drawing... or that pic in your sig is a joke.
SpecialK
Much ado about nothing! slap.gif

Andrew's link is the one I was going to post (got some of the 4lb. stuff in the garage right now). The stuff is "closed cell", meaning it will "NOT" absorb moisture [unless completely submerged for a very long time, resulting in the cell walls softening], so don't store your car at the bottom of a lake. I've done some playing with the foam to get an idea of the expansion I should expect, and it's NOTHING like the consistance of the foam Porsche originally used. I agree that the metal should be treated with some phosphoric acid (or other metal conditioner), and top-coated with some POR, but if properly done, it should definitely stiffen up the car with very little added weight.

Just MHO........fire away! ar15.gif
bondo
Don't forget there's stuff in the longs.. It's not an empty box.

Also, if you ever need to weld on your longs after there's foam in there, you're gonna be in a world of hurt.
URY914
Here is a 914 with no foam in it but it does float..... biggrin.gif



Allan
QUOTE(alpha434 @ Jul 16 2006, 01:00 AM) *

Now the crap holds up sky scrapers in third world countries.


I wonder if that's why 10,000 people die when there's an earthquake? confused24.gif
highways
Even with rust, he might actually be able to evolve a 914 into a plastic car. So put in the foam- and capture the 'core' shape of the long. As it rusts, just keep on adding carbon fiber until eventually all the metal is replaced with carbon. poke.gif (it's a joke folks!)

Actually I do think the modern closed cell foams are very water phobic. The way to build real strength with foam is in a sandwhich between two skins of practically anything (wood, metal, glass...). Now the thicker you make that panel, strength increases almost expondentially. A 4 inch thick panel becomes pretty granite like even with thin flimsy skins.

But yeah you're gonna want to POR the interior of your longs before applying foam. Not sure how you'd do that without cutting it in half.
GWN7
QUOTE(highways @ Jul 16 2006, 09:47 AM) *

Even with rust, he might actually be able to evolve a 914 into a plastic car. So put in the foam- and capture the 'core' shape of the long. As it rusts, just keep on adding carbon fiber until eventually all the metal is replaced with carbon. poke.gif (it's a joke folks!)

Actually I do think the modern closed cell foams are very water phobic. The way to build real strength with foam is in a sandwhich between two skins of practically anything (wood, metal, glass...). Now the thicker you make that panel, strength increases almost expondentially. A 4 inch thick panel becomes pretty granite like even with thin flimsy skins.

But yeah you're gonna want to POR the interior of your longs before applying foam. Not sure how you'd do that without cutting it in half.


It's been done....cut the top of the long open and remove the "paper muffler" that's inside now. Clean & treat the area with POR 15 or someother rust inhibutor. Weld shut the cut you made.

As mentioned, if your going to do the foam, use closed cell foam. It's like the blue foam you see at hardware stores. It is designed to be in contact with water, but must be covered as it degrades in UV light. The white foam is open cell foam. It sucks water in and won't let it go.

My boat had open cell foam put in it when new. After 10 yrs it rotted out the floors because of the moisture it trapped. I ripped out the floors and all the old foam. I estimate the foam weighed about 400lbs when I took it out. I replaced it with more open cell foam, but I squirted it into plastic bags before puting the new deck down.
So.Cal.914
QUOTE(alpha434 @ Jul 16 2006, 12:10 AM) *

Advice noted. But remember that once the longs are sealed, no moisture gets in or out. If there is none put in there, then there is none. If I seal the longs up with any moisture, foam or no foam. BAM! Rust. Doesn't matter.

Where do I get the foam?



Murphy's law: Anything designed not to leak, WILL.

And not to sound like a priss but watch your fuching language
crash914
syntatic foam. or is it syntactic. used in the booster for sub launched cruise missiles. Doesn't absorb moisture. light and strong stuff. It might be a 3m material. I can't remember its been like 14 years....
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2024 Invision Power Services, Inc.