Hi guys,
Just installed the trailing arms Eric made pretty for me with new bearings and bushings. So when I went to put the caliper back on , the distance between the two brake pads was too close. Tried to get the venting adj. to loosen them up. Turning the venting adj. screw, does not seem to do anything to widen the gap. Tried to push the pads back, not any help. Am I doing something wrong here? Is there a correct way to get the pads pistons to move back in the caliper? Haynes book calls for a special spreader which I don't have. What is you method to get the pistons to move into the caliper?
Thanks,
Tom in Port Orchard

Clamp 'em in a vise and use a pry bar against a piece of wood while you turn the adjusting screws in the correct direction for retraction.

There's a very real risk in losing the adjuster mechanism if you turn the screws without prying the pads. The outer screw retracts when you turn the screw CW, the inner retracts when you turn it CCW. Venting clearance is .004". The Cap'n

I use a big screwdriver between the pads as a lever, as I wind back the adjusters.

I'm going to post my reply to Tom's PM. Others may find it useful. He has new rotors and pads and this will need to be done in that situation:

The face of your pistons should be flush with the surrounding metal. That's the way they leave here when we rebuild them. I use my thumb as a guide as I set them in the bore. With new pads and new rotors you'll need to make sure they sit flush.

Next, make sure you are turning that little allen screw/gear in the proper direction:

The Outer adjusters are a direct screw into the base of the piston. Imagine screwing a fixed screw into the piston. This would pull it inward away from the rotor. So "Clockwise" on the outer adjuster gives you more space as you screw the adjuster further into the piston pulling it back. Counter Clockwise tightens up the pad to rotor adjustment.

The Inner adjuster also screws into the piston BUT it operates off that gear because the handbrake lever is in the way of direct operation. Because there's a gear involved, you'll want to turn it "Counter Clockwise" to open up your gap and "Clockwise" to close your gap.

They may be sticky and you could try a c-clamp along with your efforts to get the piston to move back inward. That might be overkill so start with your thumb and press as you turn the adjuster.

Just remember the direction for each adjuster is opposite.