Any paint gurus

I shot the door for my car, AutoAir base, Dupont 7600 clear.

this is with a cut and polis..

Should I polish more?

One thing I notice is that even after priming and blocking the door, I can still see hints of the carbon weave.

and advice appretiated

How many coats? We used to put on 4 or 5 wet sand then ruff buff then polish ended up with a product called liquid ebony, It would take about 2 days to do a job on Vette.

Your car loks fine but your garage door needs painting!

I personally can't tell from looking at the pics.

I think it looks really good.






But I'm almost blind...

The finish looks good. I always had some fiberglass weave show through on my flares. It seemed to show up after I painted them.

check out the Getty website
there's some very good info there on how to prep f/g or carbon for paint
it's either in their catalog, or in a separate .pdf

I know something that is important with any composite that's going to have a finish on it is that it needs to be heated to above anything it will ever see after having a finish on it to cure the resin completely.

I can't remember what the term is called, but we didn't have our body above 90 degrees before we painted it, and then while letting the paint cure out in the sun on a hot day it had to have hit 130 or more on the surface and the weave showed back up.

I shot 3 coats of clear, then color sanded, then shot 2 more coats of clear,color sanded, cut and buffed.

Also all the carbon and glass pieces were left in the sun for a few days prior to painting, and I cured the base and clear by letting the pieces sit in the sun.

Ill see if i can get some finer polish, and a finer pad and give that a try

Did you shoot any primer and block sand after sitting out in the sun before paint? If the base has the pattern in it the weave will show through no matter how many coats of clear.

Any time you paint fibreglass or especially C.F. you need to do a minimum of high build primer. Multiple coats, letting them dry then guide coat and wet sand. By doing that your guide coat will show you if the weave is going to be visible or not. Same process for steel to eliminate sanding scratches. Another option is to give it 2 coats of a spray poly. Esentially a sprayable "bondo" but not quite as thick You will need a gun with a MINIMUM 2.2 tip do spray that stuff. I have a dedicated gun for it with a 2.7 tip. 2.7 tip lets it lay out really smoothly which aids in the leveling. Smaller tips will spit and sputter and leave glops which isn't a big deal since you will be blocking it down anyway.Yeah C.F. is a bitch!

what scotty says...
have the parts sit in the sun (or even better, in a heated paint booth) so the resin can "out gas"
THEN you can start prepping them for paint

the shop that helped me with the bodykit on my VW Scirocco sprayed all the f/g parts in what they called "aluspritz"
it's a sprayable aluminium reinforced bondo
it's sprayed on in a thick layer (causes enormous orangepeel) that has to be blocksanded
lots 'o work, but awesome results

Nothing I'd care to do on a race car, but on a street car it would be worth it