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Dr Evil
For the 2.7 /6 I am running, what ranges are acceptable for oil P, T and CHT?

What I am seeing now with it idling in the garage today is:
CHT - 300F (I could get it to 350 if I tried)
Oil P - 20-30 psi when revving, 0 when warm and idling, but the idiot light is not on (?)
Oil T - I managed to get it up to 210F in the garage while revving it and trying to time it, but usually it was at 180F (which I understand as being the normal).

My main concern is the oil P. I reads 0 now whenthe car warms up. I did check the oil level and it is good and the oil was definetly hot.
ConeDodger
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jul 22 2006, 02:33 PM) *

For the 2.7 /6 I am running, what ranges are acceptable for oil P, T and CHT?

What I am seeing now with it idling in the garage today is:
CHT - 300F (I could get it to 350 if I tried)
Oil P - 20-30 psi when revving, 0 when warm and idling, but the idiot light is not on (?)
Oil T - I managed to get it up to 210F in the garage while revving it and trying to time it, but usually it was at 180F (which I understand as being the normal).

My main concern is the oil P. I reads 0 now whenthe car warms up. I did check the oil level and it is good and the oil was definetly hot.


Mike,

I read somewhere in either Excellence or Pano that 10psi/1000RPM is the Porsche expectation. I have seen as high as 250temp with 4000RPM on a 111 degree day.
This leads me to believe that I am just a little lean just off the idle jets, as I stay under 200 when I stay under 3500 RPM cruising the backroads. Oh, and I am also being pushed by a 2.7-6 77 CIS - S motor with 40IDA Webers.

I have no cylinder head temperature gauge and I am afraid to think what they might be. In fact the two upper covers that Jim Chambers included with the car appear to be warped which may indicate why Jeff Hines didn't use them.

Could your idiot light be burned out? I wonder how well calibrated that gauge is?

Rob
sixnotfour
if you have a 74 oil pump it is the small pump and doesnt make alot of excess pressure, especially used.
QUOTE
Could your idiot light be burned out? I wonder how well calibrated that gauge is?

a trick is to add the late cam oil line restrictors, it will raise bottom end oil pressure 7-10lbs, if it makes you feel better.

precautionary , check your sump screen make sure you still got bearings.
Dr Evil
Jeff, I forgot to mention that I did add the higher pressure oil piston set up. I am thinking that the wire for teh pressure sender got goofed last time I took everything apart. This is also a fresh rebuild (so I hope that the bearings are still good wink.gif ) with 8 miles on it.

Robby, thanks for the data points. It jumps to 20 as soon as I give it gas. I think that I have it a bit lean as well. It was 85 or so here yesterday. The oil P light is good as it lights up with KO and turns off with the engien running.

I like gauges, but none of them say, "Uh hey dumbass, this value is too high or too low" on them. biggrin.gif
Dr Evil
Jeff, for a second, maybe because I just woke up, I was like, "The filter screen doesnt have bearings. What the heck would you need bearings for on you filter screen?!"
rolleyes.gif
lapuwali
20-30psi when revving to what? Reading 0 at idle is pretty common. Remember that, at best, you have a 0-150psi gauge, so 10psi only puts you 6-7% up the scale, assuming the gauge and sender are perfectly calibrated, which they rarely are. People seem to look at the cheap auto gauges like they're lab instruments, when they're actually built cheaply and crudely and not necessarily calibrated all that well.

If I'm wrong and you have an 80psi console gauge, make sure you don't have a 150psi sender (which is usual on the 911). This will barely lift the needle below 20psi (actual), and only read 30psi at 60psi (actual).

Allan
Mike,

I brought this same subject up with the mechanic who rebuilt my motor and he told me that 0 psi on the gauge at idle is not something to worry about.

As for the oil temp, mine runs anywhere from 180 to 220 depending on how I am driving.

CHT, don't have a clue...
sixnotfour
QUOTE
Jeff, for a second, maybe because I just woke up, I was like, "The filter screen doesnt have bearings. What the heck would you need bearings for on you filter screen?!"

i drove to cali. with my bosses 512S in the trailer in anticipation of installing the motor to race the following weekend, well watching the motor run on the dyno from some to none oil pressure . we pushed the car around that weekend.
Just saying some times a visaul double check doesnt hurt. cut the filter open too. shows how clean you were at assembly. just saying I dont want say its fine and then you throw a rod out the side.The Kaptn would be mad.
If the light goes off your good per earlypump.
J P Stein
CHT is not an issue with the 9eleben motor.....the heads neither crack nor drop valve seats....tho I did see a pic of a turbo head that had cracked...in half.

Oil pressure certainly is an issue. There should be around 1 bar for each thousand RPMs. Mine reads less that one bar at idle (hot) which is not unusual.

Jeff is talking about looking at your sump screen to look for nasty bits of bearings there...this would not be a gud thing. Also, the oil line restrictors at the feed lines to the cam towers....which is now the standard fitting...which increases the oil pressure
to the rest of the motor.
sixnotfour
assuming all is fine ,
here is the page from 914-6 owners manual, last paragraph is of interest.
small early pump 911 motor.
Dr Evil
I appreciate you all. Thanks for the words of wisdom. Just to clarify, I am using the stock 911 gauge from the 74 that the engine came out of and the sender from that car as well. I would bet that they are matched, but we all know how that goes. I figured if the light was off it was good to go. Also, it is when i just goose it to like 2-3k that the needle hits 20psi or so. It does move with the RPMs so I am not too woried about that. It was the big 0 that was concerning me.


Thanks again guys! thumb3d.gif happy11.gif
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