Ok I have been working on this friggin thing off and on for more then a month now.. To cheap to take it to a shop so I could use some feedback...

Passanger side signal works, butthe driver side dosen't. Marker lights were shaved...
Here is the real scary part, when I pull the hazard switch, the fuel gauge pops back and fourth,(empty full, empty full) I pulled the hazard switch off, and the knee pad, cheked out the wires. I don't see any shorts in the wire, though I haven't gone up to the front trunk to trace those wires yet. There is a black with white wire, running from the haz switch and appears to run to the front signal, (ok makes sense) can anyone tell me what the other wires might be for?

Thanks in advance...

Dude, you are gonna need to run all of the wires for all of the effected systems. It is not like one could just say, "oh, you have the red wire on the wrong terminal" because those systems are not related. I will start a trouble shooting guide for you so you can start to see what is connected and what should be connected.

What year?

Sorry to hear it, be kinda cool to see the fuel gauge moving though .
Yes what year, I have a 73 so let me know if I can help. Haynes manual helps me all the time, getting close to buying a large diagram in colour

73 and thank you Dr Evil, your "D" Man,,,

I am just looking for feedback suggestions, maybe someone else had a smiliar issue.

Hazard circuit:

Switch terminals
15 - red with white stripe, Fuse 9 from turn signal switch terminal 15

30 - Black with red stripe, Power in from fuse 11 via B+

31 - Brown, to terminal 31 on the fog light relay (ground for both)

49 - Red, power out to flasher relay

49a - Black with stripes (hard to tell color), two wires. One wire goes to terminal 49a on the hazard relay, one goes to R on the turn signal relay.

58b - Black with blue stripe, goes to a group of wires that are shared power for the gauge lights.

R - Has 3 wires coming out:
- Black with green stripes goes to R on turn signal switch
- Black with green goes to R turn indicator in the gauge
- Black with green goes to Rt turn signal

L - Black with white, same as R but to the L stuff.

The interconnect for the ground on the fog lights and flasher relay would probably be a good start. Do you have fog lights? Terminal 58b would be another likely culprit. Your fuel gauge may be grounded using the power from 58b. Also, check indicator light wiring in the gauge for wrong wiring. Check the wires that would have gone to your running lights and make sure they are not wired to the system by mistake.

what makes you think THEY figured it out

Electronics is a PITA for many. My pleasure to help. Try my tips and let me know what you find. Also, you can help my letting me know what color wires are hooked up to the offendig equipment.

Thank you kind sir!!!

Fuel gauge circuit:

Sending unit has tree wires
- Brown = ground
- Green --> to gauge
- Black --> to gauge

The schematic does not give designators of any of the terminals for this part of the circuit, but IIRC Andy has them posted somewhere. Perhaps the classics?

The gauge has one more wire for the lighting
- Red with white stripe connects to two terminals on the gauge = power in for the gauge and lighting.

Maybe the power in to your gauge is being taken from one of the black and purple wires instead of one of the red and white wires. This would tie it into the flasher circuit and fool with its power. I would bet $1.

Ok let me start with the hz switch and then I will go after the fuel side.

15 red & white
30 blk & red
31 brown
49a blk & green and blk & white
58b blk & blue
Question R & L I don't see any marking on some of these how do I determiniwhat is R & L ? I am guessing that if I hold the switch pins up, left pin is L and right pin is R.
+ Red

My hazards work front and back. THey didn't before... But still no signal and the gauge is bouncing... Going out to look at the gas gauge..

I'm gonna throw out the standard answer to any electrical problem....have you cleaned ALL the grounds? These cars are so finicky about grounds, something at the back of the car affects the front. Randomly. Clean the grounds, then get the Bird board schematics, and start tracing. The good Dr has given you a good head start. IIRC, SirAndy posted a nice diagram of the front signal scems a while back. Good luck.

I agree with the cleaning of the grounds it can cause havock. I had accumulated

over the years a few problems and I am very good at trouble shooting elect problems

but I could not find a thing wrong. So I pulled the fuse panel out of the car, cleaned

all of the metal with a copper cleaner. With it all shiny new I reinstalled the panel

and .....PRESTO.... Everything worked GREAT. Go figure.

Ya, I had ASSumed that the ground thing was already addressed by him.

Gone through and checked the grounds.

Recap haz works, on all four and now the gas gauge has stopped bouncing... In the AM I will go and trace each wire from the signal, and see what happens.

Thanks for all the advice / feedback, I appreciate it guys!!!

Ok I went through and checked the ground connections, sanded the terminal connections. Checked the wires, I dont see where the wires have shorted or melte together. Power is coming off the fuse panel.

I am wondering if my next check would be the turn signal switch?
I am about ready to place an order for one, but before I doso, any other words of wisdom?

James (Lapualai) posted a nice Electrical FAQ in the Classics Section

Test light your connections FIRST! before spending money

I did, I don't register anything on the multimeter when I put the blinker on, but there is when the haz lights are on..

So it looks like it is the turn signal switch. So I have seen them in price from $54.00 to $150.00 Any suggestions on where to get one? Such a difference inprice makes me wonder, high end Performance Products.. Pelican has it listed as NLA...... Help!!!! I don't want toget screwed onthe price,but dont want crap that I will end up replacing in a year...

Isn't the turn signal switch interchangable with ONE year 924, and also a VW (...maybe old Rabbit)? I saw a reference to this just the other day here on the board in a thread talking about replacing the TS switch that has the air valve (for the ww fluid) to one that has a switch in it....

at work i've repaired several chevy trucks that do weird things to the dash when there side marker light loses ground. its back feeding for a ground and effecting the instuments when using the badly grounded light socket

you should thouroughly test not only ground at mounting surface, but do a ohm test or voltage drop test further up to the socket or anything else your checking. i was once told that ground faults account for the majority or electrical problems and i would have to agree.

heres a slim possibilty if everything (ground, switch, etc...) checks out:
when my son, kenny (a.k.a. - orange 914-) picked up his stripped down just painted 914, he installed the rear lights wrong and installed a "1157" in back up bulb socket! (dont ask). the lights of course easy give away, but the strange thing was when he put it in reverse the tach shut off, only thing i can figure is it was searching a good ground

Check the plug end on the turn signal switch. Not real sure if it is the cause, though. I would disconnect the fuel gauge, hit the hazards, take a meter and see what voltage you are getting on what wire and see which matches the hazards, chase the wire that the matching voltage is coming from.

If it leads to the switch, track it past the switch to see if it goes there.


SGB, yes there is a 924 switch that works for power washer upgrade as well. It is NLA currently. Not sure if there is a VW cross over part.

Try the relay... it's the reason I don't have highbeams. You can pull the TS switch and do a continiuty check of the wires, and switch.

Tried that, relay is good.

and the switch? Did you test it?

I haven't tested the switch yet. Stupid question... How the hell do I test it? Where are the contact points? I wa looking at itand was confused beyond words...

I guess I could be wrong but the turn signal switch controls my brights not my

WW fluid.

from the switch connections, also check the plugs that plug into the switches for power.

You must have an early car with the washer/wiper switch on the dash.