I installed my BMW calipers along with new hard lines, stainless hoses, and porterfiled r4s pads. The car feels better now and I can lock up the front brakes.

So for my question: when I changed to the new calipers I can no longer use the locking plate for the caliper bolts for the BMW calipers (caliper is in the way). Little plate with tabs that you bend over to stop the bolts from coming out. So what should I use. Lock washer etc. any ideas. See pic below for plate. It goes on like a washer and you bend the little tabs hanging off the end over the edge of the bolt

Couple of things I found out. The brake shield needs to be bent slightly to fit the calipers. It is easier if you disconnect the old caliper and let it hang from the hose as fluid will keep coming out otherwise. Takes time to get the new lines set up and rebend the short hard line. A 6" line is all that is needed for the caliper to hose. (I bought 8", looks like a big S now). Speed bleaders rock. They worked just as advertised. well worth the 12 bucks for a pair. http://www.speedbleeder.com/ You just back the bleeder out 1/2 turn and pump the brakes. The bleeder has a one way ball bearing and spring inside that only lets air and fluid out. Once you are done pumping the brakes until no air comes out, just tighten the screw and you are done. Easy one person bleed job.

Drop some blue loctite on them or if you are hardy use red.

(threadlocker)

that is what I was thinking, I have some red laying around. Will that stand up to brake heat

It should....

Can you use tin snips and trim them to fit? I would not sudjest red, blue or inquire

farther about a brake product.

no way to trim, the piston splits the two bolts. Wonder how BMW does it.

get you a piece of thin aluminun and make one that goes around it.

check out the pics. It has to be something on each bolt only. The first is the BMW caliper the second is stock VW/Porsche

whole system. The short hard line were a pain to fit. I could only find 8"line but needed line 5" or 6"

What he means is make one with like a horseshoe in the middle so it goes around the

casting (hump). Use your old one as a template, draw it on your material erase

the middle and add the u-shape to miss the "hump". We have the tecnology we

can rebuild them.

Yeah, Make a new one from some thin aluminum like this

You can simply put a wavy washer under each bolt too.....just like the rears..

or safety wire them.

I like threadlocker.....kept many a race car together.

I would not put aluminum under the bolts as it will compress and could fail causing the nuts to loosen. I would just use a drop of locktite and tighten the hell out of them. You could drill the bolts heads for lock wire which would be a lot safer than washers.

As a rule of thumb, aluminium and ferus metals don't mix. They react and make rust which is an item we have plenty of already.One fella told me to use street signs for floor boards and he had some to give me if I wanted them. I answered," cool and I will go to the Porta John for CV joint grease."


Rainman say, "aluminium and steel bad, ya, ya, definately bad."