I'm still pretty sure my issues are electrical and I'd like to replace the distributor. So I'm looking for a distributor and the pertronix unit to replace my stock dizzy. I'm not opposed to using another stock dizzy or having mine rebuilt with a pertronix installed.

What options are there for dizzy's and does anyone rebuild the stock units?

Robert

On ebay...


Good, bad, junk? Usable with 73 djet?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-009-REPR...24025QQtcZphoto

Oy... (again)

009 *knock off*!

Short answer to your question, no.

okie dokie, staying away from that then.

are there 'rebuilders' for my stock dizzy? or where to I get a "new" one that's rebuilt/tested? I really would prefer to just have mine rebuilt and the pertronix installed unless someone has one just collecting dust somewhere... (on the outside of it's hermetically sealed anti-static baggie of course!)

I just went through this issue.

The short of it. There is nothing other than a rebuilt orginal that can replace your stock dizzy. Need trigger points vac adv / retard etc.

Do this. Pull the old one clean it real good and get some dist lube for the advance plates. Install the pertronix (got mine from Summit Racing- just happens to be right up the street from me).

Result - runs much smoother and startups are a breeze.

Oh and BTW... just why do you think you need a new dizzy anyway???

Dunno... just throwing money and parts at it until it works!

I don't know how to explain what it's doing. I thought maybe it was a vapor lock thing. Last night I pulled it out of the garage and out to the street. I slowly raised the rpm's until it hit right around 3k and then something just goes wrong. Almost like something's shorting out... to me, it sounds like a compression release on a bike or truck... Like if you're welding.. you get that nice clean sound... then, pop.. splatter... blah!

It's not just when it warms up and it's now right away.. not like you have to drive far to get this result. I've changed points, rotor, cap, condensor, plugs, wires, battery, coil and vacuum lines. That made a difference but now it's this issue.

Have you timed it with a timing lite to 28 degrees at 3500 rpms after all that dizzy work??? sounds like its mistimed.

Sounds like a fuel issue to me. Your fuel pump may be cutting out, or something like that. What does the underside of your relay board look like?

Underside of my relay board? The one in the engine area? dunno, it's got that black cover over the top.. I haven't taken it off or even looked there.

Not sure how precise the timing is... I'll take a look at the timing again and the relay board...

On the fuel pump, can I just pull the hose, put a guage on it and turn the key on? or no. What will show pressure accurately? Do I need to run an inline guage that can show pressure while the car is running?

Sounds like your timing is over advanced so it idles ok but as you hit max advance (3000-3500 28 degrees) its more than 40+ which makes the engine cut out and not run for sh*t. These engines need to be timed right or they run crappy as the dizzy also controls the FI injector firing.

The rebuilding process on a dizzy is a matter of cleaning it and replacing the shaft bushing. Cleaning it is primary to free up the mechanical and vacuum advance....they come apart pretty easily 'cept for the drive (ya have to punch a pin out).

Unless you have a shit pile of shaft wobble (side to side = worn bushing), my bet is the sliding plates are all gunked up. Can of carb / brake / whatever cleaned for >$4.00 will do the job. Keep spraying until it's clear. Or remove the point plate and spray.

Trigger points are another area of concern too. At higher rpms they could be just fluttering and not making contact like they should.

Hey, what do I know.....absolutely nothing that is useful.

PS... iffin ya want a used one, I should have a few.

Hm, that's about the best info I've heard to date. So who's coming over to hold the throttle and watch the in dash tach at 3500? My tach/dwell guage only goes to 2400 for 4-bangers.

[quote name='HeloMech' date='Jul 27 2006, 03:57 PM' post='739174']
[quote name='Bleyseng' post='739143' date='Jul 27 2006, 11:51 AM']

Hm, that's about the best info I've heard to date. So who's coming over to hold the throttle and watch the in dash tach at 3500? My tach/dwell guage only goes to 2400 for 4-bangers.


[/quote]


Take the throttle return springs off and you can hold it at 3500 just by moving the throttle. Piece of cake. Oh BTW take you engine lid off. that way you can see the dash and the timing hole. Only takes a minute to remove it.