I'm ready to put the engine back in and am wondering if there is a difference in Lithum vs axle grease to be used to pack the CV jts.
Thanks,
Larry

most parts stores have specific "CV joint grease"

thick black stuff.....

It is molybdenum grease usually, IIRC. Just ask for CV grease. Dont forget to use new gaskets, and some schnorr washers under your bolts.

CV joints are on the ends of your drive axles... Therefore, "axle grease" (which is almost always molybdenum disulfide grease) is what you use.

--DD

I would make certain its moly axle grease, and not general wheel bearing grease.

I would recommend NOTHING else..
only use moly!

brant

A good quality clean (fresh) molybdenum disulfide grease is typically sufficient for CV joints.

The BEST stuff I have used (produces NO WEAR on my Turbo rear Wheel Bearings AND CV Joints) is close to unafordable, but it is a High Temperature/High Pressure KRYTOXfluorinated grease. It is the only grease I know of that won't drop out until it sees an incredible temperature (650 deg F). I have seen that some race teams have found out about it and have used it, but the stuff is about $200/16 oz. tube. This is the stuff of rocket science.

I got mine from work. While it works great, they have some stern warnings about not getting it on your skin and not smoking around it (you don't want to inhale the fumes).

Anyway, I just thought I would throw that out there as molybdenum disulfide is not the ONLY solution.

For what it's worth, the Haynes manual calls for 2 ounces (60 gm) of molybdenum disulphide general purpose lithium based grease for the CV's and indicates Castrol MS3 Grease as recommended.

My experience with the standard Checker Auto "moly" CV grease is really not good. After about 6 months of track events here in Arizona its becomes runny. Once it's runny, it's a mess to take the half-shafts on and off.

Two years and many track events ago, I switched to Mobil 1 Synthetic (the red stuff). I knew that it was not a "moly" grease, but was still a high pressure grease. The Mobil I grease has never liquified. I have never had another CV failure and I can take half-shafts on and off without making a mess.

Maybe I'm making a big mistake, but I'll never go back to that runny black "moly" stuff. Below is propaganda from the Mobil website:

Product Description

Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease is an NLGI No 2 high-performance grease which combines a synthetic base fluid with a lithium complex soap thickener. The thickener system provides a high dropping point, while additives impart optimum extreme-pressure properties and excellent resistance to water wash, and outstanding protection against rust and corrosion. Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease has excellent structural stability and low-temperature pumpability, making it an outstanding automotive grease.

Features and Benefits

Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease provides the following advantages and benefits:

All-purpose automotive service
Operating range of -37ºC (-35ºF) to +232ºC (+450ºF)
Excellent resistance to rust and corrosion
Outstanding structural stability
Excellent wear protection under heavy loads
Good shock loading protection
Excellent resistance to water wash
Outstanding service life

Applications

Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease meets the requirements of the National Lubricating Grease institute (NLGI) performance classification GC-LB. It is recommended for automotive applications at both high and low temperatures. It is particularly suited for applications such as disc brake wheel bearings, ball and steering joints, and universal joints. It will provide outstanding bearing protection under heavy loads at any highway speed, and where moisture or condensation is a factor.

I have used brand name lubricants, never the FLAPs brand or no name, in my Air Cooled vehicles for 30 years, no synthetics, not that I have anything agin 'em. Valvoline for the most part, in the transaxle and the crankcase, valvoline grease in the wheel bearings, and their version of the moly stuff. I never actually raced it, but I drove the old bug about as fast as it would go.

I like the idea of synthetic in the CV's, but the old VW and Porsche stuff wants the right lube in there, and can show its displeasure with you putting the wrong stuff in by shedding pieces of yellow metal, followed by bad noises and failure to proceed. Of course the shedding yellow metal is not a problem with the CV joints.

Flourine is some pretty reactive stuff, but it is in teflon, which is pretty inert. I would be interested to see how that grease is put together.

yep, I'm using this stuff for my 914 roller bearing suspension install....we are a distributor for it and I got some "sample" tubes

I can get pricing for you if you want....

Best stuff, hands down, Swepco brand Molybdenum grease.

I have run Amsoil synthetic grease for a long time and had pretty decent success with it. I did tend to break the cages in my CV joints so that may be a bad sign. But it wouldn't liquify.