Guys,
I have a weird problem. My gearbox works fine when it is cool (just starting). But after a few miles of driving some gears get harder to shift into. What do you think?

Check your lube level and clutch adjustment.

Redline Synthetic?



B

And bushings, and engine mounts, and clutch cable adjustment, and clutch cable tube...

He didnt say anything about grinding.


B

Doesnt always = grinding my dear B.

change the fluid or top it off.

It does that cuz its getting hot without good or enough fluid IMHO.

I just thought that I should mention the other causes of issues.

Hopefully Greg will not mind the in an effort to not create yet another transmission thread and send a mod off the ledge.

I recently experienced a "judder", sometimes violently, and read all of the technical write ups in the Haynes as well as Pelican site and knowledge base here. I ended up adjusting the clutch, which solved a related "1st and R grind". I also placed the car in the assumed position and removed and checked both tranny mounts. Both were cracked, which was the suspicion. Here is one on the passenger side, which was the worse of the two.

Based on the feedback on a search, the Wevos seem to be the best longer term solution for a street machine. I am assuming that the mounts Pelican has in their 911 section can be fit given the "ovaling" possibility. McMark had a set that looked like they did not have to get the mod to fit.

I want to drain and replace the oil. I need to get the 12mm hex tool from Pelican (spendy for the half inch drive) and follow the Dr's prescription. I have 75-90W GL5 Mobile1, but I take it that is not the correct weight, so I will make a run to the FLAPS this weekend to get the correct weight.

After the clutch adjustment, new fluid, new mounts, and I going to go the full bushing route. I also am considering to redo the reverse lock-out. Anyone have any recommendations or lessons learned on that to reduce the 2nd gear clipping?

Sorry that you are not still in San Diego, Dr. Evil. I will let you know when I am ready for some CV bolts. ( cannot believe that CV are NLA)

I believe the fill and drain plugs are 17mm socket (allen) plugs).

90wt gear lube is what you want. (I happen to prefer SWEPCO partly because it starts out blue and not brown) Any quality fresh clean 90wt gear lube should work better than old sludgy stuff.

just my $0.02

I had the same exact symptom a few months ago. Changed the tranny fluid. It did not go away immediately but got better gradually as I drove the car. After maybe 150-200 miles the problem was gone completely .

Correct, it is 17mm. For some reason I had 12mm in my head from another transmission service I had to do a Land Rover.

I appreciate the confirmation on the 90W gear lube. I am still not sure if I am going with the SWEPCO or not, but there you go.

Do not run synthetic gear lube in your 914 transmissions. The synchro's where not designed for it. Late model G50+up tranny's are all designed for synthetic. It will shift like gang busters for about 1000 miles before it will slowly start going down hill. No grinding.. it just wont go into gear. I learned this back in 1994 or so when Redline was REALLY pushing their products to the racers. Put it in 2 out of the 3 tranny's we ran that year and ruined the two with it quickly. We kept the stickers on the car..LOL

Use generic or the proven Swepco. They use special additives that allows it to work well with our synchro's.


B

Let me clarify and put into comprehensive/visual terms.

Think of this as a woman. She is good in the begining and as it gets HOT and Fast the lube runs out and the action SLOWS DOWN and comes to a SCREACHING HAULT!! And then, you don't get your cookie.

Not that it has ever happened to me or anything.

Ditto what Brad Roberts said entirely. I have had many discussions with Bobby Hart @ CA Motorsports and he probably knows more about Porsche transaxles than everyone on this club site put together. He has told me the same thing regarding synthetics (G50 and later only).